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sandspider

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Everything posted by sandspider

  1. sandspider
    Hmm, nice and light but not too powerful, and no felling dogs. I see the vibration figures are actually higher than for the ms181! Which doesn't seem likely. Neat little thing.
  2. sandspider
    Hi all Need a new petrol chainsaw (domestic use only, but I log and burn around 10m3 per year), and due to a wrist injury I'm looking for something smallish, lightish and low vibration. Looking at the husky 135 mk 2, but the chainspeed at 17m/s is a bit slower than I'd like. Or there's the ms181, similar vibe levels and weight, can't seem to find the chain speed. Or there's the echo CS-310ES, which is a bit more vibratey and again I can't seem to find a chain speed. Also the echo is not much cheaper than the two better known brands. I had an old spear and Jackson in the past, which was cheap, heavy and vibratey, but worked well for a long time and cut a lot of wood! Chain speed 20m/s ish, so I'd like the replacement to not be slower. Anything else I should be looking at? Thanks.
  3. sandspider
    Never had a Titan grinder but their mains chainsaw is good, and their garden shredders are supposed to be... I've got a cheapy grinder from Wickes if I remember right, and it's served me well for decades. I don't use it that much though.
  4. sandspider
    Ah, that's not too far away.thanks. Might try some when I get a new, decent chainsaw
  5. sandspider
    Will keep an eye out for it, thanks In theory though, fuel stabilisers contain detergents and other things to clean and nourish fuel systems, not just things to eliminate ethanol?
  6. sandspider
    Thanks, all. I have ordered some B&S fuel fit and will see how it goes. Nowhere round me seems to sell Aspen, but everywhere sells petrol - even the E5 goodness. I might consider Aspen in future new kit, but don't want the faff of converting existing stuff (long coniditioned to petrol) to use Aspen and suffering broken fuel lines etc.
  7. sandspider
    Hi folks I run a mixture of 2t and pure petrol tools (none expensive!), and I run them all on super unleaded petrol (E5). Sometimes they sit for a while unusued (weeks or months), so I drain them down and run them empty before storing them. But it's a bit of a faff - if I put fuel stabiliser in the petrol, can they sit unused for as long as I need then fire straight up? Does fuel stabiliser work on 2 stroke and 4 stroke fuels, without affecting mix ratios or anything? Is it still needed if I'm not using E10 petrol? The petrol can sit around for a while too, months - I'm not a heavy user (domestic only). And what's a good one to try if so? Plenty on ebay & Amazon, but if anyone can recommend a decent (not overly expensive) one that would be good. Briggs and Stratton, as I have at least one of their engines? Thanks.
  8. sandspider
    One of our burners was installed with the wrong sealant in that flue to stove join. Melted every time the stove got hot and seeped out like that, and it smelt horrible when it burned on the stove. Installer came back out and replaced it, blamed it on a bad batch of sealant and it was fine after that. But it melted and smelt grim every time, not just occasionally.
  9. sandspider
    I season wood in a polytunnel, which has mesh covered windows. Usually it seasons well, but I often get drips / damp patches by the windows, especially on the upwind side. Depends on if your mesh is under some sort of roof I suppose, to keep direct rain from falling on the mesh?
  10. sandspider
    I like the Titan electric chainsaw, but have never used their splitters. 4 ton wouldn't be enough for my gnarly logs, a 7 ton forest master does a much better job.
  11. sandspider
    And the paint comes off them easily. But good splitters!
  12. sandspider
    -6 this morning, 13 on Sunday apparently!
  13. sandspider
    I put a bit on the compost heap, fill holes in the drive with it, top up low patches in the paddock... Having said that, my Burley stove is very efficient, so doesn't produce too much ash for the amount we use it.
  14. sandspider
    I knackered my right wrist a couple of years ago, still not healing. I used to use an X27, but the occasional go with it after wrist injury made it flair up again. (Mind you, so do most things - including hammering, so don't think it's the fibreglass shaft). I got a smaller X10 which I use left handed (feels odd but works OK), or sometimes borrow a Forest Master 7 ton duocut electric splitter. The latter is good and powerful - slower than the X27 and tyre when splitting straight ash, but it will munch through things I couldn't split with the axe even when my wrist was normal. And it's generally easier on the body, especially the wrist.
  15. sandspider
    That would make sense. Some of the nicely split parts are damp, while some of the smaller branch pieces I should have split or striped but couldn't be arsed to are pretty dry.
  16. sandspider
    Thanks. Possible, but the logs where the condensation drips tend to be damp on the outside too, and I leave those to one side...
  17. sandspider
    Our elderly neighbour had some form of brain incident that required brain surgery. She had lingering dizziness, and was unable to drive for about 6 months, but can again now. Not sure how much of the dizziness was due to the incident or to the anaesthetic/ surgery, but the anaesthetic was a factor I remember.
  18. sandspider
    Ah. You may be right there. In that case I don't want to work out what our total energy consumption is per day, it'll be terrifying. And our house isn't even that warm!
  19. sandspider
    I understand. Just seems very high for a well insulated modern house with eco friendly air source heat pump. (Though to be fair, I've not worked out how many kWh of logs and oil we get through per day). Glad we don't heat with electricity, that would cost £450 odd per month here.
  20. sandspider
    30kwh per day is huge! Was the Devon house even worse? We use about a 3rd of that, in a big, old, cold stone house in a dark Welsh valley
  21. sandspider
    Hi all Has anyone noticed any difference in speed of log drying of ash with chalara? I've had some, felled two years, cut and split and stored in the polytunnel for 6 months at least (and a hot 6 months) but a few logs still steam and seep water when they go on the fire. Given that it's ash they should be fairly low water to begin with. I wonder if chalara is affecting the drying out of the logs? I have a vague memory it does something to the cells of the wood, maybe blocking xylems and impeding drying out?
  22. sandspider
    Maybe half a cube per week? One to two recycling boxes of logs per day. (Two wood burners, at least one usually lit while I'm about, oil boiler and Ch)
  23. sandspider
    Electric saw? I have a Titan 240v mains saw, works very well and isn't too noisy. Other than that, don't process at 7am on a Sunday and generally be considerate and you should be fine!
  24. sandspider
    If it's just surface damp they should dry off in a few days with protection from rain and wind allowed to blow through. If they're properly sodden, e.g. they've been sitting in water, it will take longer. Not as long as they would take to season originally though.
  25. sandspider
    Is that bad? We put a camping kettle (quite possibly aluminium) on our woodburners from time to time.

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