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Rhob the Log

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Everything posted by Rhob the Log

  1. First stop - arbtalk. Found this fine specimen of a Rhody on a mapping excursion today. Thought it was Aesculus from a distance Layering nicely at the edges but no seedlings as far as I can tell. Any help with the species would be good! I'm mapping for R. ponticum removal so would be nice to leave this big fella.
  2. £10, wow! Just up the road from me, would've had them fresh felled... Obviously, they're not seasoned though. Takes decades on something that size...
  3. Right, it was not how I expected a halving cut of ash to behave. 13" diameter so pretty skinny boards if I were to mill it standing on edge but the principle is good. Cheers Alec, showing good experience as always Well jealous! Hopefully I'll have my chance soon on a windfall Oak at 50".
  4. Nice, cheers Agrimog and J. Glad to know I'm not the only one. Maybe if I understood tension and compression more... Is it the weight of a large tree that forces any fibres under tension to keep in alignment or is it that the older the wood, the less the fibres are in opposition to neighbouring fibres / those on the other side of the round (if that makes sense)? Or have they just relaxed and grown solid after their youthful rush for the sun? Having not done any quartersawn boards, just quartering to fit the processor, how does this affect compression? Peely quarters look pretty difficult to slab out. Too many questions I know...
  5. Starting to get a little daunted by the amount of movement in the timber I'm milling Started with sweet chestnut, which peels away badly from the band. Today, both Ash and Oak started doing the same. The Ash was probably growing on a lean but was perfectly round and straight stemmed and the Oak was pretty straight growth too. Any of you other millers found a way to deal with this? Any signs to recognise it in the end grain? (See the Chestnut pic below) I've tried clamping the cut board and cant together with F-clamps which works reasonably well and the Norwood manual says to keep rotating the log and taking cuts from opposite sides. Is it just a case of flattening them out over the drying process? Any help appreciated. Cheers!
  6. Sounds like you want a Lewis chainsaw winch. Pulls dyneema rope - very fast and very strong. Cost you about a grand.
  7. Does that mean yours has a corkscrew and a magnifying glass attached??? Missed out on my 1ton model
  8. Cheers for the wood Rob! Milled it up this morning - turned out lovely. Some particularly amazing rippling going on in a couple of slabs. Milled down to 2" (plus the 'wastage' 1 1/4"s hehehe) and some 4x3s. Attached is the nitty gritty.
  9. Lugall for lightweight, take-anywhereness, Tirfor for heavy loads. Depends if you can drive your kit to site or have to 'lug' it a long distance I guess. Have used both Lugalls and Tirfor types (Habegger made mine). Both do the job.
  10. Lovely job. Sessile or Pedunculate Oak? Seems fairly straight so I'm guessing pedunculate. Did you re-file a cross-cut chain to 10 deg or try some new, exciting angle?
  11. Is Scots Pine not top dollar then? I would've thought as it's naturalised/native it'd give a better quality wood than introduced Pines. Certainly better than Spruces but not as good as Firs, no?
  12. Cheers Rich, I avoided the close-ups on the split ends and wavering bottom guide rails. As Muttley said at the beginning, it's best to treat both sides to reduce cupping. Did see an amazing, green painted waney-edge shed on the Gower this weekend though so makes me wonder. Enjoy the Pine - which species out of interest? Look forward to more shed posts!
  13. Here you go RD. The (half)finished article. Dressed the board underneath yesterday and gave everything a light sanding. Still lots to do, that window for one... It's not a great build, but hey, cost some fuel and my time. Keeps the rain off my kit
  14. Yes, it has the desired effect. Not perfect, SC never stops misbehaving, but pretty damn good. Very chuffed with the posts I made today.
  15. Second that. All dimensioned boxed heart wood is cupping really badly for my carpenter mate. Where would you dimension it to reduce the effect? As soon as the grain starts circling or further out?
  16. Very, very nice! How do you do the rails underneath? Are the bandsawed to a template then hand-chamfered?
  17. "If you don't have a forge" Love it. Those are some seriously good mods he's got there. You can learn a lot from this guy in half an hour. Really like those end dogs to deal with compression in the timber. If only I'd known that 3 weeks ago! Could you just clamp the (wedged) timber together with F clamps to achieve the same effect I wonder...? Thanks for sharing RD (& Will)
  18. 19 extant species so I guess it depends on which you're dealing with. Looking GREAT Rover. Really like softwoods at the moment!
  19. Think I was reading in another thread on here that the two colours of wood (orange and white) shear off each other when milled...
  20. Alright, seen the pdf from the FC. That's handy. Definitely turns my plan on its head. Read the bit about removing the largest individuals first http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/Argyll_Bute_rhododendron_2008_best_practice.pdf/$FILE/Argyll_Bute_rhododendron_2008_best_practice.pdf Guess my 1T hand winch is going to get a lot of work! But seriously, these things are massive, multi-stemmed. I expect plant hire will be involved to do a good job. Am I ever going to get a high enough spray cover to kill 200+ large Rhody or is this years on years of work? A little over the budget for what they could pay I think...any suggestions?
  21. Got a job spraying Rhody this summer. Anyone fill me in on the most effective treatment? It's a combined map and spray of around 45 forest management units (in a SSSI), around 80 acre site - spraying the smaller statured stuff. My plan is: Cut them down to stump, smear on Glyphosate with a paint brush (cringe) or knapsack spot the stump, while fresh. Waiting till end of May or so to be out of sap rising time. Don't want any runoff and I'd have to have hot feet to miss the flowering anyway. The trouble is, I wasn't taught stump treatment on PA6, despite continued hassling. Labels don't give technique or, "using special saw attachment". Eh? Poor training provider. That aside, what do you think? I've got to quote a day rate for this too so any help there would be good. Could be a lot of work in places, especially near the stately home....
  22. Very Alice in Wonderland! Love it. Muchos respect for the detailed work it must've taken to get so many angles to get along with each other and still look great! Colours are really nice too mate.
  23. Don't Monterey Pine's have larger cones that stay on for years?

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