Eddy_t

As little as I can pay, but they go for silly money on eBay

On my bench: husky 242xpg and husky 357 for another member on here, who happens to be my local tree officer. Pity he won't sell me the 242!

But if you clamp the bar (or remove it) how will you see the power increase? It's got to be cutting a log, or on a dyno! It wouldn't be a pointless task, you just require too many arms. As a rule of thumb, we go for 80% of the exhaust port, although my 357 is well over 100%, but I suppose the baffle causes a bit of back pressure, likewise with my 560 (which doubles as a leaf blower now).

Probably coked up inside, the extra outlets help prevent that I've found.

Bah, wimps! What could possibly go wrong whilst drilling a muffler on a saw running WOT, with or without a bar and chain, whilst holding a tachometer...

Never said it was a legal issue, I said proof of being a professional user. But the easiest way to prove you're professional is, as stated by the health and safety at work act, trained competent. Easiest way for that is one of those tickets, although most dealers will have never seen cs46. Proving you have 30 years experience is a lot harder if you haven't known the dealer for very long. Returning back to your 'HASAWA only applies to workplaces' statement, where else do you find professional tree workers? It's perfectly legal to do a lot of things until you get paid to do them. And finally, legal is different to contract agreement (to an extent). Legally I can buy aluminium phosphide tablets, but I'll be buggered if I can source some where they don't want to see a pesticides ticket, with a registered chemical storage. Dealers are contractually obliged to request proof of being professional, but they don't have to by law, they'll just have the supply taken away if they don't do as the supplier says. There have even been similar cases on here, where the supplier has said do/don't do this, somebody didn't listen, now the supply has been removed.

To be fair, most of us fit the 020 carb, it's standard practice as the 200t carb with the piston pump is crap!

I know how to do it, it's just large hands don't fit in small places, and the 200t is much easier to work on in comparison, although I suppose you get more practice with 200t carbs...

Until you work on the carb, stop switch or anything else in the airbox! Then it's crap!

Yup, and from kickback with no hand to knock the brake on

Email the number to Stihl, but the easiest way to check is, has the oil tank got a flippy or screw cap? Though I don't understand what the problem with an 020 is? It's the same saw!

Do not do that, you're likely to fry the processor! To reset the autotune, either take it to a dealer or leave it on idle for 10 mins and turn it off.

It's not a new policy, it's been around for years. There is a global policy that all the proper manufacturers (husky, Stihl, dolmar, echo, efco, any others I can't think of) entered an agreement that only 'professional users' could obtain top handled chainsaws. Under the UK HASAWA, this means that we require cs39 or 46 (repollarding trees). Any dealer found in breach of the policy runs the risk of having their dealership removed. The dealer doesn't have to send your certificate off to have the saw released, as they should already have the item in stock.

Good, accurate post, mountain man. The 200t is far too overrated for what it was! But didn't the same happen with the 020avs?

It's exactly the same as the 192, same series number. But it's has a wider starter.

If you have a part number, the likelihood is yes.

Apart from you cant get a 192 now, they're obsolete, but the 193 has replaced it.

No, they won't.

They have metal IN the screw caps, although the whole can is made of the thickest plastic I've seen on a combi can! Despite holding less fluid, they weigh a lot more than a Stihl can.

Try the new husky can then, pretty much bomb proof!

Irrelevant if they're able to prove my point, plus my stepdad has one, which I invariably have to rebuild after stale fuel or neat petrol has been through it, gets annoying after the 4th time... Didn't google it Barrie, I already had a pdf!

I'm sorry Barry, I have to disagree there, the husky/partner cut-off saw workshop manual categorically states compression readings, specifically for the k650, 700, 950 and 1250.

No, none what so ever, but having bought OEM kits before, having had to part with my left arm and right leg as payment... I had doubted adw could even get close (my local dealer wanted over 4x that price, plus vat!). The 385 was the first saw I had, and after a carb problem, it seized, and I had it rebuild, but the repair bill was extortionate, so I looked on the internet and ended up here. I tend to steer clear of OEM prices now, especially if the aftermarket products are as cheap and close quality as they are.

And I didn't expect a price match

And yet so many of us have good 560's, you just seem to be surrounded by duff ones.