Peat

Thanks, but it was just for a one off job. Got it from East Brothers in the end. Cheers

Cheers mate

Hello, A friend is after a lorry load of douglas fir saw logs. Shes in Cornwall Anyone?

Beautiful kitchen! And 30 x 100 sounds about perfect. Can you PM me your number and a price please. Cheers!

Lovely stuff! I'm currently panelling a sauna in Alder T&G. Its really beatiful wood and the variety of colour tones makes it look interesting. Also its hard enough that I can bash it together with a rawhide mallet directly on the edge (groove side) without it breaking or denting, which is handy for speed. Anyone have seasoned Alder planks for sale? Squaredy?

Does anyone have any milled Poplar or Alder for sale? I'm after stock 1" and 2" thick or something close. I'm in Gloucestershire Cheers

Taking some curved Ash logs to the mill tomorrow for the roof and then i'm going to do the rest of the structure in Larch. Ta

The client has specified sweet chestnut waney edge (which is pretty much as light as larch). If I used Ash i'd have to make the studs narrower to still keep 2 inches of insulation bit still get the weight down. Don't think I could get away with 2x1" Ash studs! I plan on using Ash for the curved roof ribs

Larch is 95% of what we mill and is generally my go to timber. I was aiming for something lighter but with the amount of timber involved maybe it won't make much different. And we have Larch by the mill and it means I can crack on...

I have a commission to build a cabin on a trailer. Its going to be a stud frame and pretty small timbers e.g 2"x2" or similar and it will be on the road. I'm going to be milling the timber and was planning on building the studwork out of poplar as it is lightweight and I can get the sawlogs for barely any money. Also I'm keen to make use of neglected species where possible and I've been impressed with the poplar i've milled in the passed, very light and very stable in wide boards. But its seeming like it might be a bit trickier to get than I hoped and also I read that hybrid poplar is a weak timber. This stuff was planted for bryant and may matches, what variety is it likely to be? I also have access to norway spruce and scots pine. I have milled some of the spruce before into batten and it was very weak having been fast grown and this bit was fairly knotty so in batten sized pieces it wan't up to much. But if I graded it better is it likely to be strong enough. Or should I go for the scots pine? Any advice very welcome.

I put a piece of lead or slate under the bottom of the posts, slightly smaller than the posts. This seems to stop wicking problems. Easier to make a hole in lead than slate for the thread bar to go through.

Steve Cull, Blademaster will sort you out. Total professional, knows all there is to know about bandsaw blades and their sharpening. He will sharpen woodland mill blades.

So Agrimog are you saying that the new trailer rules don't apply to a mill? We are planning on getting a trailer made for our HM130 too but was worried about these rules so was concidering bolting it to a narrow horse trailer chassis instead (although not entirely sure if this fit within the rules either?) Something purpose built would be preferable if it is still legal

I like the look of that thing, especially how it hinges over to empty it out. Saw a guy using one online to minimise the amount of handling of his logs. He'd split logs ito billets, stack and season them like that, then when he had an order he'd cut them in the buckingham woodstation, and then flip it and empty straight into his truck. Seemed like a good efficient operation with minimal kit.

Say it With Wood sell chestnut in Herefordshire, so not too far from you. I'm sure they'd be able to provide what you're looking for

I've got some small diameter cherry cord. I'm near stroud, gloucestershire. Its a mix of seasoned and unseasoned, think its all less that 12" diameter, 4ft lengths.

How does he want it? Standard split logs? Cord? Billets? Is it for smoking?

Smart hurdles. I make the odd cleft hurdle and i'm interested in how the production time of your sawn ones compares to cleft. I understand its probly trickey to figure out if each process is done in batches. I'd probly do 4 or 5 in a day cleft, from log to hurdle. I'm sure i'd speed up if I got more orders for them!

Yeah its not great at all. Saw clogs up and gets blunted by grit in the bale. Much better is a reciprocating saw like an alligator saw. A strimmer is good for shaping the outside of a straw bale wall (if this is for straw bale building.)

The problem is the thicker stuff tends to be pretty gnarly and twisted so isn't great for much except firewood. Makes a decent enough spoon but thats not gonna make a dent if you've got loads of the stuff. the larger straight stuff can be cleft into thatching spars or sold cut to length to a spar maker. But we're talking pence here. Cut it up for firewood. Saves you getting a log splitter as it comes in a nice variety of convenient to burn sizes!

They were told that if the new owners broke the covenant, they would have to sue them for anything to happen, so they didn't bother.

Got my socketed 1 1/2" framing chisel from wells trading post for £12. Definatly worth a visit. Windy make some nice quality specilist framing tools. I have one of their froes and its decent, but never used their chisels so can't comment on the finish. Definatly worth paying extra for a well backed chisel coz it can easily take a few hours to get it right. If I think about the amount of time i've spent restoring car boot sale tools I could have bought new... Satisfying though and I do like old tools.

Well that worked out alright then. Congrats! A similar thing happened to some friends of mine. They retrospectively applied for planning permission for a forestry tied dwelling (yurts) at great expense. The council insisted that they were granted lawful use under the 4 year rule. Basically the council couldn't be bothered to process the application. They were happy to have a secure place to live but pissed off that it came with no forestry tie because they don't want townies living there in the future without working the woods, if they or their kids eventually decide to sell.

Well i'm glad what I heard was wrong. So the way I understand it, its 4 years for change of use of a pre existing building and 10 years for a new building (inc a 'caravan'?) Is this true? Were you in a pre existing building and did you then prove lawful use after the enforcement notice had been served?

Never read it anywhere, can't remember who told me... I have done a bit of searching and never found anything either. So I don't see why you can't live there in a 'caravan' (movable timber frame bungalow), as a seasonal forestry worker? Its seasonal because you aren't there for the whole year because you... go on holiday, work offsite for a couple of weeks or whathaveyou, during which time the caravan is 'stored' on the land. Then after 10 years you get lawful use. But then if it was that easy wouldn't this be the standard route we all go down?