pleasant

National minimum living wage is now £11.44 p/h for over 18's. When charging yourself out, you need to include all your overheads- the cost of training and your skills and experience, the cost of purchasing your machinery, the depreciation, your time and cost to travel to the job, and then the running cost of your machinery for an hour- you will get though a litre of 2-stroke an hour for example, and a litre of unleaded now is say £1.50 plus the cost of your oil, and that's without the maintenance and repair costs factored in. Then protective clothing etc. Then you will have your income tax and national insurance, and then cost to purchase/rent/hire your vehicle, and the insurance for it and road tax and running costs, your public liability insurance etc. At that hourly rate you may as well stack shelves in Tesco and be financially a lot better off. You need to work out how much you need in your pocket to live on after all these costs have been taken out. If you say you only need to clear in your pocket £15 p/h then you need to be charging yourself out at considerably more than that to know you won't end up working for little more than minimum wage.

Genuine refugees are not people that need to pay thousands to criminals to get here under cover or darkness and sneak their way in. There is a legitimate process for genuine migrants......those that spend £12-£15k on a family of four to try and make their way in through the back door are by definition not genuine- if they were, they wouldn't need to. Spending that eye watering amount (which in their country of origin would be a kings ransom) tells me financially it's worth them to come here in the long run.

A nice old saw, but hold on, an 028 is a shelf queen vintage saw- not something I would rely on to earn money from. Genuine parts are scarce new, and decent used parts are few and far between. The Chinese copy stuff can be a bit hit and miss and shouldn't be relied on to keep an old saw like that going as an everyday work saw.

Or knickers by the looks of it

You can have a go on my Stihl 090AV with an 84" bar...don't think you would be using it all day though somehow.

Turn up with a mains electric Bosch.......then watch their eyes.

If they're in the way and you need the room I will do you a favour and pop round with £50 if it helps. 👍

The Stihl HS45 Hedge Cutter (24") has been around for donkeys and is a proven good, reliable machine for heavy domestic use/light gardener use. Although not a full pro machine it is liked by a lot of man in a van type gardeners. It's light, reliable and will put up with more than it's really designed for. A good, used one of those and you can't go far wrong. When you say 'strimmer' do you mean a lightweight swan necked grass trimmer (where the trade marked name 'strimmer' comes from) or do you want a straight shaft machine...commonly called a brush cutter. Which can take larger diameter line and if powerful enough a metal blade for 'brush' The Stihl FS40/FS50 Swan necked grass trimmers are very good, reliable and light. Ideal for edging and cutting longer grass up against a fence or wall etc. Not great for doing a paddock but you wouldn't have a grass trimmer for that use anyway. Again, a heavy domestic product, but all swan necked grass trimmers are domestic use only anyway. The Stihl brush cutters with the straight shafts that can take a blade pretty much start with the FS56 (loop or cow handle) and are very good, but because they use a flexi drive shaft they are limited to heavier line than a grass trimmer takes, but blades can be a bit iffy when fitted. They will fit, but the flexi drive can shear if under too much load. Hope that helps.

Those Chinese clones are always rather 'optimistic' when they state hp and cc's. It is unlikely to be anywhere near 71cc already There is a youtube video somewhere which shows you how to check the actual cc of these saws.

The FS131 is the latest version of the FS130, which still uses the 4-mix engine. The WSM is based on the engine rather than the machine, and the code for the 4-mix engine is the 4180 'powerhead' Here's a link to download the workshop manual with the info you need: https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attach/667/667252-4180repairmanual.pdf

By comparison to getting it wrong and having to buy a new pot and piston or new saw....oil is cheap. Which was the point I was making for the OP

Is your oil a 50:1 dilution ratio oil? If so, then yes. It will be clearly marked on the bottle of oil the recommended dilution ratio- don't veer from that. Remember it is the quality of the oil that dictates the ratio not the machine. If you have gone to a 'shed' type place or a supermarket and have bought generic 2-stroke oil with no specific ratio on the bottle then bin it and buy some proper stuff...it's not expensive even if you buy Stihl or Husky stuff

Buy two while you're there. The first one will break down in the middle of a job, so at least you will have the other to just about finish the job until that one breaks as well. ...oh...and don't even think about trying to find spares and someone that's willing to repair it.

Gang mowers are most commonly separate cylinder mower units towed behind a tractor or similar....same basis as the old suffolk punch type mowers. Will give you a lovely low fine cut on good quality grass that has been maintained and will generally cut wet or damp short grass better than a rotary set up as theres no clogging to worry about. However....absolutely no good on long grass or areas that have got out of hand. Once cut down to a reasonable level then they are fine but not until remember they are difficult to set up, and expensive to maintain. Councils also prefer them in public places as they dont fire out stones, sticks etc at 100mph unlike rotary

Agree with above...never use marine 2-stroke in non marine applications. Why, just why when there's a plethora of the proper stuff around?

You can, but if you want the sexy later chain cover then that part isnt upgradeable unless you change that half of the crankcase so it fits

Cedrus Deodara. Cedrus deodara - Deodar Cedar Tree WWW.MAILORDERTREES.CO.UK Deodar Cedar has slightly pendulous branches that hold the glaucous foliage. Cedrus deodara is a wonderful evergreen... They grow big......and have weak limbs with age, so be careful sitting under one.

A heliciol kit is your answer if you want to keep it original, but unless you already have a kit, or know someone that has it would be just as cheap to stick a decent pattern pot and piston on it...or original if you're feeling flush.

I always considered Tillotson carbs easy to work on and pretty reliable. All Stihl zama carbs are chinese now....unfortunately

I don't ring other dealers asking what they charge out at per hour, as every business costs are different. You know your costs, and how much you want to make and charge out accordingly. With respect once you start charging prices just because others are charging a certain price- ignoring your personal situation- then you are getting into a price rigging cartel in your area.....and we are all quite happy to complain about that when petrol stations and supermarkets do it. Work your costs out, and what profit you wish to make after deductions and go with that...irrelevant of what fred down the road is charging

Can I add to the above.....the crankcase is different. Certainly the half (if not both) that is the clutch side as the later clutch/chain covers are NOT interchangeable due to differences with the casing castings. Overall, there really isn't much too similar between pre-mtronic and mtronic models

3xFor Tillotson HS RK-23HS E1 286A 136A 234B Carburetor Carb Rebuild Repair Kit WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Carburetor Carb Rebuild Repair Kit For Tillotson HS RK-23HS Carburetor Repair. 3set Carburetor Carb Rebuild Repair Kit...

I would also add. Operators not tightening the long bolt between the two halves of the articulating head with wear. The distance between the mating bevel gears then increases to a point whereby they barely mesh and only mesh on the weakest point of the gear, which are the tips, then they just shear off and you get loss of, or poor drive. A lot of operators think because the securing nut is really tight, it cannot be tightened any more, but the nut is there simply to stop the bolt unwinding. The bolt itself is threaded into the right hand half (as you look at it from an operators view) so you slacken the nut, then tighten the bolt, then re-tighten the nut. You should feel some resistance whilst adjusting at differing angles, but not so much that you struggle to move it, and not so loose the head just flops around.

Reading the symptoms, may not be a carb issue. Whip off the muffler and inspect the piston first.

Yup...whenever I submit a very genuine warranty claim to Stihl for payment it is always scrutinised, and they are so doubtful that then often ask for the discarded parts back for inspection. The world according to Stihl , is the very solid belief they have never produced a faulty product or component. They will have to get used to screwfix returning pallets of perfectly good returned product- just not assembled or used correctly by the consumer. Screwfix won't challenge a consumer as they either haven't a clue themselves or they just offer a no quibble policy.