Pedroski

Rotavator will be plenty enough - you'll be effectively ploughing everything back in, which will help the soil. Turf cutter to remove existing lawn is pointless. The only time I would remove existing turf would be if I returfing without rotavating, i.e. removing turf, adding topsoil, and laying new turf. And I'd remove the turf just with a spade, simple enough. But for what you're doing (spraying, rotavating, re-seeding) then don't bother removing the turf.

Nah, they're very different.

Knut is like this....

Distel

Hi Jammy. I think I'll take you up on that. PM sent....

Dig over a spade depth manually

15x7m will be easy with a 2 wheel rotavator. Make sure you spend a bit of time getting used to operating it - I can't imagine anything worse than being dragged through a fence by one or ripping up the edge of a paved area in front of a customer Rotavate several times to break up big lumps, level out, roll, rake, roll, rake etc, till you get nice flat surface, loosen surface with rake, rake out stones and clumpy weeds, add some decent top soil if the soil is poor, and seed. Again, I personally wouldn't worry too much about spraying weeds unless I was wanting a bowling green - new grass and mower will take care of them. If you want to spray then do so before rotavating and leave plenty of time for the weeds to die off.

The EasyLift ones look good - must give one a go one day. Not sure if I'd get along with it. Can't get on with the Stihl one at all as the support end is too close in and there's not enough freedom of movement. I need to be able to move my back and shoulders about and would rather have all the weight on my arms.

True Nathan, the blade on a shorty does come too close for comfort if it folds.

I use hedgecutter end on the extending Stihl pole saw - works a treat, and good for developing core strength

I cut the drive shaft down to correct length and carefully ground a square end using a bench grinder. Flat file will do the job. Just copied what was already there. Works well.

As for the hot shaft - are you sure it didn't just need greasing up?

Jammy, we did a similar thing a few weeks back. We took an old strimmer, shortened the shaft and fitted a spare hedgecutter end. Only problem is that it doesn't fold in half very well.

Easiest way is to just not mention it.

Of course some are, but obviously not the ones who have to ask

Probably no more of an odd place to sell something than ebay if you're needing to sell off gear and get cash to get out of the doodoo! I've asked seller for picture of proper serial number as I'm interested in bidding on it anyway.

Arbs thinking they are suitably qualified to do this, yet get all uppity if a gardener so much as looks at a tree Get a geotech firm in - simple

Why don't you just go and knock on the owner's door and discuss it directly?

UKC News - VIDEO: Easter Accident Prompts Safety Video That video explains it really well, and with great sound effects too! I would think with 3 way locking krabs that this scenario is far less likely to arise than with wiregate krabs or screwlock krabs.

Good stuff - always nice when something leads to more work.

Hmmm, just seen this reprint from the Petzl leaflet on the Outdoor Gear Lab website: it's a warning about using the "String" with an open sling - apparently it's led to the death of a climber... It's because the "String" will hold the krab in place when it's gone inside out I think, then just fall off.

John, where do you get those bands from? I'm after some at the moment. Cheers.

Yep, I use them for hedgecutting, sawing, chipping, grinding. Very comfortable. Keep the dust out of my contacts lenses really well. No problem with steaming up - I sweat like a pig though, and don't have any eyebrows, so I do have a bit of a problem with drips of sweat falling inside them! For all day use when strimming I use the Bollé Silium - brilliant they are, and look cool.

I dunno why. I had a butchers on the Laski web site and it clearly says: "LS 150 D Track This chipper is designed for disposal of wood waste, twigs, bark, branch-wood and other above-ground biomass or for manufacture of chips from aforesaid materials and also for disposal of redundant timber such as sticks, deals, pickets etc. The chipper can dispose all these materials with diameter up to 150 mm or flat boards and plates with thickness up to 60 mm. This chipper is equipped also with NO-Stress anti-blocking device. " The actual feed hole is 290 x 220mm, so I assume the dealer is saying that because an 8 inch piece of wood will fit in the hole then it's an 8 inch chipper. But it isn't. It's a 6 inch chipper because it can chip 6 inch wood. On the Landforce site it says: "Wood chipper - chipping specifications - both versions Max capacity: 150mm (6") Cutting speed: 42m/s No of blades: 2 Blade diameter: 560mm Chip length: 9mm Wood chipper - chipper feed specifications - both versions Feed hole (BxH): 290x220mm Hopper (BxH): 920x800mm Rollers: 2 Roller diameter: 190mm Input speed: 12m/min - 40m/min (manual control) Drive: hydrostatic "

If you don't want a 6 inch chipper, then don't get the 150.