openspaceman

My school mate had one, he said it was cooler than a bike, when we were 16. It had a tight turning circle but you could reverse it by switching the ignition on the dash and staring the engine to run backwards. It had a strange electric starter and also the kick start. It would only start in reverse by the electric starter IIRC.

Possibly Phaeolus schweinitzii, mostly found on softwoods but can affect hardwoods

If the fruitiing body is not on the log then how can it sporulate? Altough Kretz is both saprophytic and parasitic/pathogenic once the logs dry it will not fruit and hence spread.

Well the saw I first used had none of those things, nor AV, didn't cut myself with that. I'd be very uncomfortable without those items now, as I am without a seat belt in a car (my tractors haven't got them).

Three chains is probably about right for the amount of wear, I would hope to manage more before replacing the drum. Because the drive link is bottoming out it will be slightly deformed which may make it feel tight in the bottom of the bar groove when you pull it round manually.

If you use the stepped tap it will start following any vestige of original thread, the cutting bit of the step will ream out a hole which is the inner diameter of the helicoil's thread, the tap above the step will then form the new thread. If you use just a single helicoil tap you will need to drill first, this is where mistakes happen. The helicoil is just like the one way clutch you can make with a pencil and a spring of a slightly smaller diameter on it. You can wind it in because you are drivng in by the tang and, as you say the torque causes the spring to wind up and shrink its diameter slightly. Try and unscrew it and it attempts to unwind and jams against the thread, this is why it doesn't extract itself when you take a plug out. it's also why it is most important that the helicoil is short enough to sit totally withing the length of thread. Having a piece of helicoil sticking out of either end of the threaded hole is a disaster. I have never had one jump a pitch when inserting.

I've done that with a car engine (Subaru 1800 turbo) . Near bdc on the induction stroke pump grease in. Bring piston up until grease at bottom of plug hole. Tap thread, screw in helicoil, break tang then bring piston to tdc to eject grease with tang and swarf. Spin engine with plug out to expel excess grease. Not worth doing with a chainsaw engine when you can pull the pot so easily. Well worth using the special helicoil stepped tap to ensure it goes in straight.

I admit I used to run them a bit longer than that as I only had spur sprockets on less used , bigger saws. Even Stubby's floating rims will show the telltale mark the drive link makes as they wear, unlike spur drum the rims tend to explode if you run them too long.

Ganoderma aplanatum I think. Some holm oaks I looked at for SWT had it and were still going after 10 years in a station car park, I'll have to call in and see how they are. They were reduced a bit just in case.

Yes once the drive link bottoms out and marks the bottom of a spur sprocket with that telltale bright spot it needs replacing. How many chains have been through it in the year? I would supect an over tight chain if not more than one.

Yeah, I had a Dinky one in british racing green, I used to oil the axles to make it go faster.

You fix it on site. The thing with these hydrostatic drive machines you cannot release the failsafe brakes if the engine is not running, unlike the old stuff when (after much effort) you could pull a quill out so it would freewheel. Tracks don't often break unless the rubber covering the internal reinforcing wires has exposed them to rust. They do often derail, then it's a case of jacking ub that side, slackening the track adjustment (often by forcing grease out of a tensioning ram) and levering the track back on. Easier said than done. When a 3 tonne tracked chipper shed one on a muddy hillside our fitter had me winch the thing up, mangled rubber track and all, to a flat area where it could be fixed.

This arose because the manx norton engine was used by formula 3 racing cars so the only way to get one was to buy the bike and sell the rest on.

So right that I'll only add that rowan are susceptible to fire blight (which has only been in England as long as I have) and stressed ones more likely to succumb.

Freezing disrupts the cell walls such that the apples can be directly crushed to get the juice. The masceration is a preconditioning in front of the press. Where is @Peasgood he is into commercial scale cider making.

Bruce had a Forester vertical bandsaw IIRC.

I agree hydraulic oil degrades with heat. I was unhappy if it got over blood temperature. Fancy thermostats something extra to go wrong. In cold weather I'd stall one of the services at tickover to warm it up and prevent cavitation. Cavitation kills aluminium gear pumps in short order.

What does it do? Sense the pto shaft turning?

Do you know if any 4mm hose will fit or is it special?

I had this handed to me as a non runner, purge bulb recently changed but does nothing because the fuel filter was blocked and the hose from tank to carburettor hard and kinked. Spray petrol in the intake and it fires. So I decided to change the hoses (4mm outer diameter to seal in the tank holes) and have ordered some. The thing is when I cleaned the tank out this bit circled brown was loose. I guess it is the return from the purge bulb? Does it fit from within the tank and the bulge formed bu the hose seal the tank> I'm guessing the filter fits on a continuous piece of hose to the carb?. This strimmer appears to be a badged Husqvarna/Jonsereds/Homelite as the part numbers which I found correspond with Husqvarna offerings.

Good. So it's either a restriction in the flow or could the brakes be adjusted a bit tight, assuming they are wet discs?

Does the oil constantly flow through the Botex spool block while you are doing road work?

Probably, I found my saws required little maintenance, very seldom removed a spark plug and just generally cleaned around the clutch sprocket and cover, shot of grease in clutch bearing, ( bearing did not get much use as tickover slow enough to stall after 30 seconds on idle) plus made sure cooling fins were clear. Daily maintenance was air cleaner, which I did with petroil despite the manual saying not to. Sharpening was light and two or three times a day unless on sandy soil or having hit something, chain tension at the same time. Never greased the tips after I was about 30. A normal day would burn through seven tanks of fuel a day. I never needed a warranty claim on my, or the helpers', saws. We used 60cc Husky saws almost exclusively after 87 and I tended to buy a new one once a year and hand my old one down to a helper. I still use one of them ( I have three dating from 92 to 97)t hough I have an original 346 as my goto saw because it is lighter and I only cut logs.

Good luck for future sales Pete

Yes they all worked for Ken until he went racing full time and we all started fires with tyres ;-(. at least the racing ones were softer ant less wire?? Ken's brothers were still in the trade in the Shere area circa 1987