openspaceman

May be no need if the rotator has a relief valve built in to it. The normal way is to run the rotator off a motor spool which free wheels when in neutral. Also some spools will have port relief valves built in to dump excess pressure in any of the two outputs back to tank. Else put a dual cross line relief valve across the outputs from the spool.

That may mean there is no cross-line relief between the input and output of the rotator so, for instance, if you picked a long log up by one end at right angles to the machine and dragged backwards without operating the spool the rotator would try to turn but the oil would have no way out of the rotator.

With the spool in neutral can you manually turn the grab and rotator? My indexator G3 is on a motor spool but I think the rotator has a overrun internally. Anyway back in the day I was advised there restrictors should be one way check valves with a restriction bypass so that fluid was never restricted getting out of the rotator. I doubt it would be a problem with a small machine.

Been there,done that... I put it down to the two pints of directors we both consumed at lunch time. I was 22 , on the rope, and never drank alcohol at work again.

Yes I would frill girdle or drill the stem of the standing tree and hope the translocated herbicide would kill most adventitious suckers then mow AND/OR weedwipe any regrowth.

Regular mowing will kill them off in a couple of years, it's the ones that sprout in borders andr shrubbery that need dealing with as these will sustain the suckering. I'd go with a rubber glove holding a pad with 50% glyphosate on those.

Curried patra leaves lovely not sure about laurel. I could do with some of that bug to put on next door's laurels that would save me lots of pruning.

Perceived wisdom is that you poison the tree some weeks before felling it but that's something I was never allowed to do.

That's why I use the bench grinder, with green wheel, inside this desktop shelf with a vacuum sucking out the back. I put a fresh piece of pallet wrap after putting the grinder inside and tear a small hole to grind through. Teeth on the chinese machine are £11 each so worth touching up frequently.

When I had access to the discarded discs from a tiling contractor I found they were okay to cut on the narrow side band even after the diamonds had worn off the cutting edge, now I use a TCT saw sharpening wheel which costs about £10 even though it is rated at only 5500rpm. Yes it is slow but faster than taking the 9 teeth out and using the bench grinder, of course my time is less valuable than that of someone in full time work.

With limited experience, spread over 45 years with stump grinders and mulchers IMO it depends on weight and horsepower, if you have both of those you just carry on until all the TCT is worn off the tooth and then change it quickly, else the steel wears down fast and damage to the wheel or carrier occurs. Small petrol pedestrian machines cut faster with sharp teeth and once blunt cannot be forced into the cut. Very blunt teeth take far too long to sharpen and are not worth the effort, so I have sharpened teeth from a Dosko off the machine when they are just dull, with a bench grinder outside and enclosed in a container with a vaccuum cleaner running with a HEPA filter and just a small part of the wheel exposed to the tooth. The cheap chinese grinder still has its original teeth and I dress them with a diamond disc in a cordless angle grinder on the wheel after each stump, only run about 10 hours so far. The diamond wheel I use is not rated for the grinder speed.

I was thinking one of the alders, possibly incana?

I would guess Picea omorika because of its slender form. If so it will top out at about 25metres. Cutting the leader will result in multiple leaders forming from lower branches.

Actually in 1998 I bought a cheap genset with one for the lads that lived in a caravan and they ran it night for a couple of years till it got stolen. This is the video, though I could never justify the expense of one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzBZQr6RVc

There's a recent video on youtube of a snack bar running off a Honda EU2i in New York. It has been running for 5 years, 20 hours a day and only oil changes, plugs, filters etc regularly. Personally when I had to cut hoses, grind and drill things I used one of the 50quid 2t gensets based on a motorcycle reed valve engine. Only 900W but noisy and used fuel I had with me anyway. I still have it somewhere. Nowadays I use a cordless grinder from Aldi, it copes with hoses and wire rope and cutting sheet metal quite regularly.

Good of you to stay hanging in there Paul, though I'm no fan of trade bodies.

AIUI they ran between the wheels and were there to defend the occupants of the carriage. Ours was particularly good at running with the bicycle, even on the road when I dared, when he was younger. When I was teaching my granddaughter to drive in the 35 acre field and sent her solo he caught her up and jumped through the passenger window of the Vitara because he didn't want to be left behind.

His sighting is poor but nose is good, I thought they suffered kidney problems, one of the reasons they have white shit?? They weren't hunting dogs but rather bred as fancy looking attack dogs. I am wary of pure dalmatians as they can go mental, our cross is as soft as anything and very tactile, loves just being stroked.

Apart from lurchers and "fast" dogs which still don't really qualify as they are bred for poaching, which crosses are used as working dogs? The vast majority of dogs are just pets and companions. Our cross was an accident of birth, the two frenchies highly expensive pure bred and I don't approve of the breeding at all but I am very attached to them all.

Yes and definitely the case with our dalmatian cross pointer as pure dalmatians have genetic problems. Also hybrid vigour, he is bigger than either parent breed. 10 years now and slowing up plus losing weight though.

looks like a tulip tree leaf albeit the scallops look a bit deep.

Yes lovely to drive and tow with and I expect 90% of them will go on with no problems, we had a 2006 RR Sport from new which was a tow tug and did 250k miles before its first serious mechanical problem in 2016. It's just if you own one of the 10% that fail early either from previous abuse or lack of oil changes then you are in for an expensive repair. Often because the body has to be lifted for any major engine work and the bolts and gaskets, belts etc are over £1500 before you start to address things like broken cranks where the webs are thin.

Why are the rails and mesh on the outside, won't the animals lean against it and push the rails off?

TDV6? I was forever worrying what would go wrong next when my granddaughter bought one. Watch out for the plastic coolant manifold in the VEE splitting at its seam. Also it apparently pays to replace the oil pump as loss of oil pressure can become an issue, I never did this as she sold it and got a "little" car.

With the flue issue why not run an insulated double skin flue straight off the stove? I think only 400m of single skin is allowed under part J in any case.