openspaceman

Our planting sites were too poor for gorse to be a problem but generally gorse is an indicator of good potassium and phosphorus status but poor nitrogen, as it is a legume it makes its own.

In the old days when the firebox was not lined with firebricks there was a definite advantage in cast iron. My jotul 602 suffered little damage from corrosion in 30+ years apart from around the flue outlet [1]. What cause the main problem that caused me to replace it was purely my fault in chronically shutting th door on overlong logs which cracked the (replaceable) back plate. Now with higher firebox temperatures and less likelihood of acidic condensation on the walls plus the lower temperature the steel is exposed to I doubt there is an advantage. Aso there was often a slight blue haze out of the chimney which indicates poor combustion which decided me to go more modern [1] almost certainly from low flue gas temperature

These should be good but I have no experience other than the owner is an expert in high temperature ceramics from big industry

Wow how do you cope with that?

Did that get it out? I would be surprised. It's normally easier to attach a rope to the track and let the machine ride out on it.

I have never tested if they are any good but I have two of mine with Adrian Flux for about £130/annum each.

Technically I think you are if you are over their property but it is a civil offence so they would need to show what damage you had caused by not going through the provisions of the party land laws to gain lawful access. See a recent thread about wind turbine blades over sailing a property. I had the same when a developer wanted the tail swing of a crane over a charity's property, the charges were so enormous they got in a more expensive crane with no tail swing. I would crack on too, but quietly and they may never realise.

Don't stint on the number of coils on the drum, it is aluminium and slippage causes wear. Also consider that if you are pulling something 50m away; you wrap 5 turns around the capstan which means the rope by the rope bag has 5 twists in it. Now winch the load in 50m and release the end of the rope and remove the wraps off the capstan, 5 twists come off the end of the rope but 5 opposite twists are now in the rope 50 m away. it is a rope management problem I did not appreciate until I got the Eder.

My understanding is that it's the agitation of the chain that does it That makes sense as it would be the shear effect of the drive tooth shearing the oil on the bar

rheopexy? I am not sure of the advantage as it would make pumping harder. I too would thin, maybe hydraulic oil rather than diesel.

I had to repair a Stihl 361 that was dropped, running, into water and that sheared the flywheel key. I tried to align the flywheel but was unsuccessful. @GardenKit had one surplus at below Stihl price which fixed it.

Hi Rob, long time since we worked together at 60acre wood. If you are working nearby I could drop in and take a look.

In production forestry you would soon get frustrated by the lower performance. When skidding out softwoods in the bad old days the guy crosscutting at the landing would used an 80cc saw with 15" semi chisel and wind it in to the cut because the dirt would knock the tip off full chisel in no time.

Could it be windblown sand from the adjacent cultivated land getting into the bark? We used to find cutting scots pine on sandy soil would blunt the chain.

leaflets too pointy for me so was thinking tree of heaven

Cue @Mick Dempsey 🙂

What killed the grass? Damage could be herbicide over spray.

Normally that the sum of the axle loadings is the maximum allowable mass, so the load distribution has to be very precise to carry the maximum load.

The wall thickness would only be 1/2mm.I would be tempted to try it as is. If that moves too much for the oil hole alignment shape a piece of aluminium the same thickness as the bar to fit in the bar slot and then drill that and then cut it off half way through the holes. I think I have one of those saws in the shed that I ought to try and start, it too has no bar.

I find my softwood logs dry to as little as 12% over a single summer under cover, oak takes a bit longer but still less than 20% if split small. This equilibrium moisture content is an interesting phenomenon in that there is a difference in the moisture content as the humidity changes but that difference is not the same when the humidity goes up as when it goes down. So a log dried to 12% in the summer will gain moisture as the RH increases to 90% in the winter but it will still be very slightly lower mc than the same log drying from green and in equilibrium at the same RH. Also be wary of equilibrium mc tables from joinery firms as they tend to use mc on a dry weight basis where we tend to specify it on a wet weight basis. So their 25% mc dwb is our 20% mc wwb. I don't think my logs under cover can get higher than 17% even if the RH gets over 90% and I doubt even in wet places like the lake district they will get over 20%mc wwb if they have been dried lower.

I remember that sinking feeling as coffee with glitter poured into the cup. I migrated to SS flasks, they don't stay quite as hot for so long but at least a warm drink before the drive home.

The simple answer will be no and being guilty of haranguing on this subject I'll lay off.

You are right about no good outcome but it was a mixture of americans not wanting an influx of eastern europeans and needing somewhere else for them and the american anti colonial attitude that forced the exit of european governments too hurriedly that caused much bloodshed in the far and middle east.

...or if the system gets pressurised by a blown head gasket in a bad case

which is why you need to crush (or chip) laurel leaves before they small of almonds