openspaceman

I don't like it but it is legal to fence ones land. I try and appeal where I can but unless you are a representative of one of the statutory bodies that are notified of any changes to the PROW network you don't find out until it's too late. As with all things planning if no objection is made in 4 years it can stay. OSS are about the only people who will do anything but they are cash strapped and more principled than practical.

That's what is happening but it's not to spoil a walker's view it's to prevent a walker looking at what's inside the fence. The private individuals' right to privacy is overriding the public's right to an open vista.

Because if the tracker is not functioning at the time of theft they will try and get out of paying up, in the same way if you forget to set the burglar alarm and the burglar alarm is mentioned in the policy they will say you are at fault, in the same way if you leave keys in a car you will not be covered. What the tracker does is to mitigate your loss if it enables you to find it.

I've asked this before but no wiser: is it worth hardfacing or brazing tungsten carbide tips to shear bars/anvils?

I don't know if it would reduce a premium but if the insurers take the same attitude to trackers as they do to burglar alarms I certainly would not let an insurer know the equipment was tracked.

I'd say that was all reasonable except for the TPO but my first port of call would be the housing association and not escalate the criminal damage bit yet.

The local highway authority should have definitive maps and statements. The maps aren't much cop because they will have been drawn onto OS 6":1mile and won't show a width, they may well show a lack of a fence. As you say it changes the aspect of a walk and openness is an aesthetic benefit. It may possible that the long term usage has made it a public area but the only way I know of registering this is as a village green but this effectively devalues the land for the landowner's existing use. I agree with treequip and that unnecessary public access hinders management and affects the conservation value, which is why I thought CROW was a bit of a sledgehammer to crack a nut. IMO it would have been better to enhance the existing PROW network rather than give rights across all unimproved grassland. Very few people walk off piste and the ones that do can be very damaging, even on CROW land most people are content to stay on existing farm tracks and again I think this is how it should have been. This may well be just a new owner asserting his rights, a local very rich charity near my home has fenced off common land for grazing yet no cattle have grazed for 6 years but OTOH many people are afraid to walk in fields with cattle, there have been several people trampled to death in recent years so it can suit both sides if done reasonably. Find the local correspondent for the open spaces society and be advised. If you look at what the likes of Clarkson or Madonna have done to increase their privacy when they buy an estate with existing rights of way then you will understand this is the tip of an iceberg. Locally Surrey County Council the highway authority will do nothing for the public benefit and always fall in with a landowner which is why on a lot of my walks the footpath is fenced both sides with panels and the width is 3ft, as long as the width is that specified in the definitive statement and the height is less than 2metres nothing will be done (although IMO planning permission should be required for any fence over 1m high if next to a highway a footpath doesn’t count). With Surrey property being an attractive investment and bolthole for foreign moguls who come from a culture of walled compounds we see a lot of this. As I said in a new development where a path crosses the housing area and is diverted it is generally created with a 4.5 metre width and I think this should also apply when an open field path is fenced, slightly more is barbed wire is used, If you do find grounds to contest what has happened you will need public support and with many people unconcerned about recreation in the countryside apathy will be the problem. I think far less people do recreational walking than 20 years ago aside from honey pots like the lake district. You should aim for at least 20 other objectors and 20 years evidence, if it goes to public inquiry a fair number of them must attend, a petition carries no weight.

Your best hope would be to look at the definitive statement to see what width is mentioned, I have just lost an appeal where a open field path was fenced off at 2 metres but no width was mentioned. Had it been a new or diverted path it would have been 4.5 metres. I have nothing against a landowner fencing his land for management purposes but I do object to 2 metre fences being erected to the detriment of the public enjoyment of the countryside.

Best outfit we used for awkward sites was a chap from south wales that bought a new foden 6 wheeler with a lifting rear axle and single axle drag, I think it grossed 38 tonnes. He would carry the drag in and have the axle lifted for both traction and manoeuvring. Now I see the lorries have centralised tyre inflation (to prevent damage to forest roads) and this gives better traction. I've also wondered about the trailers we see in London now, short and with steering axles, presumably if you can get 29 tonne of wood on they go anywhere a rigid can??

My two are A55s and I think top and bottom are identical ball races, I've only replaced a bottom bearing. It's the A60 that has the wrist action with the top spherical bearing IIRC but I haven't used an A60 since 1978 when my mate bought it from new.

Interesting but do you know other saws that have brake parts in common with the 2100cd?

Update on this; I removed the high screw and diaphragm and squirted some petroil through from the screw end, I also gently raised the fuel metering lever arm. Set the screw to 1.5 turns out and put it all back together, I found to get high idle down to 13800 rpm I needed to screw the needle another half turn out. Saw seems to hold this for over 10 seconds without wavering, tickover is a bit fast now.

Thanks, let me know what bits you have, I may be able to live without the manual oil pump with the shorter bar. Apart from the guide bar side plates I need a new exhaust outlet as this one has rusted through. I also need a cylinder base gasket for the 288, I've had it stripped down so long some of the smaller bits have migrated. Most of the swedomatic brake is there but something must have broken inside as I must have brazed it solid in the distant past, presumably because it wouldn't stay off.

I've turned my attention to two of my old saws as I have no more productive things to do, first one I got going since it was laid up around 1995 was a 2100cd I think I bought in 1982. It was never my favourite saw and when a Stihl 084 came along in exchange for a bad debt I stopped using it. Last outing was to a dutch friend who broke the shaft on the manual assist oil pump and plugged on until the stellite tip on the solid nose 36".404 bar wore away. Is the knob and shaft for this hand pump still available? It has what seems to be a D009 mount so I swapped the clutch drum and 3/8 ~28" bar and chain from a 288 I'm rebuilding once a new piston arrives and it seems to run fine. So I need to know what parts from later saws I might use to replace obsolete bits. I assume I can use the guide bar side plates from any husky with D009 mounts? Does any other saw share the swedomatic chain brake mechanism for this saw? I need a handle and much of the brake trigger assembly. Finally can I use the single clutch spring from another saw as this one seems to have stretched just enough for the chain to snatch on tick-over.

I didn't in the past, just remove bottom plate, pressed new race in and back together again.

I'm on Fastfuels from BWOC and my price is 92.96 this week so I guess they have a bit of discretion depending on your business. They do charge more than pump price for petrol though, also a surcharge to buy from Tesco or Morrisons. I have now had the card declined at two Texaco stations, the first the cashier just refused it and when I insisted it was the only payment I had he rang it through and told me never to buy there again (shame as it is near my home and nearly on my route to work) then yesterday I fueled up a transit at 10:00 with £81 okay and then filled my van at 17:00 ,the EPOS machine verified my *pin* and declined the sale with "NOT AUTHORISED TRANSACTION CANCELLED". Cashier would not 'phone BWOC so I had to revert to arval which is pump price plus 2 quid. I'm severely tempted to drop BWOC and go with shell if I can get a cheap deal and if there is no surcharge at motorway service stations, any feedback gratefully received.

Hodge Does the weekly price hold at any Shell station? Is there a surcharge on petrol?

With the A55 the engine should just pull off the bell housing so no need to get at propshafts unless something is awry. Both mine are a bit derelict and I've been meaning to do the clutch for over 6 years...

Not for the last 20 years and even before that I doubt I ever did more than 200m3 of solid timber. It was only ever a sideline to get rid of out of spec timber or part loads.

I weighed the ms261 I repaired: Which is with 16" bar and chain and half a tank fuel and oil. It is nigh on a kg lighter than the Makita DCS5121 I recently bought with an 18" bar. Now whilst I spent the last ten years of my working life using a Husqvarna 262 which I suspect is heavier than either I don't want to have an additional half can of beans on each hand to wave about. For the little I do I find the 261 a handy little saw, much as I like the Makita for its robustness. I have never picked up a modern Husvarna in anger.

Do you know if A55 bits are still available I need an articulation ball joint and clutch disc.

First I'll make the point that this phenomena is not something that you'll notice in Britain, the equilibrium moisture content outside here is probably 16% and indoors in my home it seems to be 10% so there is always enough water to prevent this happening during a normal burn. It is a problem with batch loading without some sort of feedback loop like a lambda sensor can provide. Something can, and does, happen with a stove left to smoulder, the solid lump of log effectively carbonises with no flame present the offgas fills the stove but is below its autoignition temperature, the temperature rises to the point where nearly all the oxygen is used up but the temperature is higher than the autoignition point of the offgas, then someone opens s the door,,, This actually took the life of one of the drivers who collected wood from us in the early 80s when he opened the door and inhaled the burning offgas. A similar deflagration took the roof off a school boiler room The other thing is that the effect on heat efficiency of burning logs is not as significant as people expect, I posted figures in another thread to show the difference between 20% and 300% (Cornishwoodburner queried this in a PM so I rechecked my figures and I had made a mistake but it was in minor and in favour of the drier wood). What I said then was that excess air was likely to be more significant in terms of extracting heat from the stove and it is this that limits efficiency in batch loaded stoves ( it's less of a problem with a woodchip stoker because the air and fuel ratios are fairly well maintained as constant. So most log burners run with sufficient excess air to provide enough chances of an offgas molecule meeting an oxygen molecule inside the combustion chamber. This means at other times, e.g. just prior to throwing a log on and just after there is far too much air passing through the system, all this air has to be heated up and as it is not necessary for combustion it passes through having a free ride but is ejected at flue gas temperature. If you consider a kg of dry wood only needs about 6kg of air to burn but you have to share all the heat produced by the ,now, mass-flow of 7kg with an additional 12 kg of excess air then you'll appreciate the waste. Also this is where the moisture in the fuel becomes more significant than the energy cost of its evaporation, in order to burn wood the primary air has to burn char, to give heat which drives the pyrolysis and gasification, wet wood needs more primary air. Now given that you need to meet the requirements of Time for the fuel to burn, high Temperature for the reaction to take place and Turbulence to mix the gases and make sure a fuel particle meets sufficient oxygen molecules you will see that increasing mass-flow, by the need for more air, actually reduces Time the air is in the burner, it lowers the temperature, because moisture has to be evaporated at 100C before anything else can happen plus all the excess air has to be heated up and although turbulence may even increase, especially with forced draught, any steam in the combustion chamber works to reduce the chance of offgas meeting an oxygen molecule. This was very much one of the selling points of our high speed dryer which was designed to produce kindling in boxes for sale in a supermarket chain. You cannot have creepy crawlies emerging from the boxes when opened.

I haven't visited your link but I think it concurs with what Tom Reed found, essentially the enthalpy of vaporising that bit of water keeps pyrolysis in check, without it pyrolysis proceeds like a chain reaction and the offgas comes off in a peak which it is difficult to supply enough secondary air to.

No Jon, I live in a suburb 25 miles from London, wife refuses to have a gas cooker and when I look after myself I depend on the microwave. I also commute 40 miles to and from work each day so that is by far my biggest energy use even though I achieve 60+ mpg. Energy is a very small portion of my disposable income. Also the house is not well insulated as it was built in 1862 but at least I heat it with logs mostly. I did help out two lady artists who developed an off grid mobile, vegetarian café based on an old Rice horse trailer which toured London until it was stolen.

Actually you can do better than that, I have 3W LEDs with occupancy sensors in hallways and because they are directional they are bright, so I could easily use these in living spaces, the thing is to only use what you need, so say use 10W of lighting for 8 hours a day, a 40W TV for 4 and a 60W laptop for 12 and that's only about 1kWhr for all day, that's two large car batteries' worth to 50% discharge. You cannot use electricity for any heating , pumping or cooking though as these are the big users, a fridge or freezer will use the same again and a washing machine about 1/4 again. So in summer you may get by with about 4kW of installed capacity of solar panels (£6k) and some leisure batteries but in winter you'd need to run a small generator.