openspaceman

I don't know, it says DIN 5134 1 1/2 lb on head and Beilsteel DIN 5132 LACKIERT on handle I found it in some junk within the last 8 years and it is not old. I imagine my problem is to do with my sharpening technique but it's good enough for general work.

Depending on whether the 4m is an elevation or front view and allowing 500W losses through the floor then even if the whole conservatory were single pane glass and there is a temperature difference of 20C you are losing 5kW plus air changes. A stovax stockton is about 600quid and small but a bit basic. You do need to vent the flue above the eaves of the house so I'd expect the double skinned flue to cost more than the stove, then you have to consider building regs and compliance of the stove and flue.

Mine's not stainless and over 10 years old. The edge is acceptable but not as sharp as I can get on the hatchet.

Treewolf I would have just "liked" your posts but it wasn't enough as I agree with all three of your paragraphs. As I said depending on circumstance I would still do it myself if the circumstances were right, with the knowledge it could be trespass and criminal damage with no lawful excuse. Re your note about paths becoming impassable; a similar thing happens where cross field and field margin paths are fenced in to 1metre width when a new owner wishes to (lawfully) restrict the public right of way. Once it is no longer grazed it soon becomes overgrown. In the past this would just have been an extra burden on the LA but now they can no longer afford to do vegetation management it leads to lesser used paths becoming abandoned. This is especially the case when stock fence is used as animals can no longer reach underneath.

I like Opinels, having had several in the last 40 years, but I cannot understand how I can get a better edge (good enough to dry shave my arm) on my german hatchet than I can on the opinel.

One has every right to remove sufficient of an obstruction to enable one to walk past it, this does not give one the right to remove the obstacle from the whole path. I don't know the rights or wrongs of using a chainsaw to do it but I'd be happy to do it with a handsaw. You could see if the council have appointed a volunteer path warden for this path and offer to do it. Our local Ramblers footpath secretary liaises with the county council, whose rights of way budget has been reduced from £500k/annum to £100k/annum, and they cover volunteers for insurance purposes to deveg footpaths (no power tools though). Myself, depending on location, I'd just do it.

The chap I still, occasionally, sub for expects to provide all the gear except my lunch and PPE. I do take a rake and leaf grabber to avoid too much bending but that's about it unless he pays me to take a tractor and grapple which is a different rate. The principal is he is the entrepreneur and I am a fixed cost. I get the same money whilst he stands to lose but generally makes a lot more money. Were I to take my saws and fuel I am still on a fixed rate but my costs have become variable. Similarly I'll absorb the travel cost from home for 20 miles but beyond that I ask for travel money.

Not necessarily so, it just means consideration must be taken for us senior citizens when working. Anyway you said you were retired and no one's rushing to ask me for my services.

Seriously age is a big factor, just look at the HSE death statistics for all industry, those over 60 accounting for 25% of deaths

I cannot see much excuse for this with a saw engine but have done it on a subaru boxer engine, to save taking the engine out. The idea is you fill the cylinder with grease as it come up toward, but not at, TDC, tap and insert the helicoil, then eject the swarf with the grease by bringing piston up. Spin the engine over a few times on starter and then put plug in.

Sounds like you'd better post on the Greenmech page and wait for Jason to advise, it may not be the board. I've been out of it for a while so cannot remember but some of the machines engine speed was sensed off the alternator, so if that didn't work the stress control didn't either. The total cost of a refurbished board was £210 plus Vat and the postage of the old board to them, I think the board was the same on the road tow 150s.

2 years ago this month RDS (the makers) charged me £210+VAT for a rebuild for one, including new led display off a mk1 safetrak

Yes, I'm no machinist but with a flywheel costing £100ish it may be worthwhile. I see some people grind one side of the fixed key to advance the timing but understand the accuracy required.

They were standard green carrot nets, I estimate less than 15kg, bags of smokeless coal are 10kg and £5.50. The thing is it's marketing, you have people after more so sell to them. I thought the narrow boat market, where most residential or permanent cruising boats have a solid fuel stove, was an ideal market but couldn't break into the established marketing chain in the one boatyard I tried. The reason given was price for the given amount of heat. As the input material had low cost most of the cost was in packing and delivery, which might have come down with scale. I became too busy to pursue it.

Because Will processed them from his slabwood, the were good dry logettes

I've not tried it, because Barrie @GardenKit sold me a cheap new one for the 361 I was repairing, but is it feasible to broach a new slot in the flywheel to accept a woodruff key?

I took some of WillsMills' to the narrow boats, they liked them a lot but considered them uneconomic at that price compared with smokeless coal in bags.

That's interesting, were they turned green and then was the fillet put in at a later date?

I cannot remember about the patch and I last used one around 1976 and was grateful when the 084 became the big saw. The CT was standard for large hardwoods, at the time I think only the homelite with 42" bar was an alternative.

Yes it will work but the logs at the bottom will become dry whilst those at the top, exposed to colder, wetter air will remain wetter. Also the stack will need to be high enough to ensure the heat is all used. The woodchip drier developed by border biofuels for Arbre worked on this principle but they recycled the top layer to the bottom of the incoming batch, it was fairly efficient use of low grade (40C) waste heat, I think around 50% of the input heat went into evaporating water. In general unless it's running constantly you need to aim for the heated volume and sides to be low mass, otherwise you spend a lot of heat raising the concrete to temperature. Two other points: Themo convection isn't a good heat engine, so the heat necessary to create the buoyancy doesn't promote much air movement. A small fan would allow a FIFO system with horizontal stacking and a bit better recirculation for a more homogeneous drying cycle. There’s really not much point having a batch with less than 20% moisture in some logs and more than 30% remaining in others. Have you worked out the figures for what you want to achieve?

I've considered this but never done it. Why only 33ft and what size rope? I wondered about tape as it would stow better, thoughts?

Not had a problem, though he's not my dog but my daughter's and grandaughter's. He only ever got close to worn out doing a round trip over Skiddaw but have never taken him to the Highlands as the journey is a bit long. He's six this week so slowing down a bit like me, I'll never do the ring of Steall again, only just managed it when I was sixty. I would still like to walk from Corrour down the grey corries to glen nevis. I think the valley below An Steall falls is my favourite place and is the starting off point for a good walk over the top to Kinlochleven as well as the ring. Also I enjoyed the first part of the ascent onto Ben Nevis from here and up onto the hanging valley, then to the watershed and up over the arête but I was in cloud from there. In fact in the five times I've walked up the big ben I have never had a clear summit. I did get told off for cruelty by a yorkshireman when we did Striding edge but he coped really well, I only had him on his lead in the photo and generally when there are people about in case they are scared of dogs, he's actually never been aggressive since a puppy, and then only to me. One for nearer to you that takes in a bit of open country and a wooded valley is from Haytor then north crossing the stone tramway to Smallacombe rocks, then west down into the valley to the clapper bridge and up the other side with Greator on your left. On through the medieval village, interesting place to wonder how the stone walls once were a community, and up to Hound tor. Back then SSE through the equestrian cross country course on Holwell lawn to another clapper bridge ( or you may try the rope swing but I got my feet wet). then back around either side of Haytor to finish.

If you turn right at the top of Devil's Kitchen you ascend Y Garn from where you can watch the jets banking beneath you as the follow the A5. Tryfan is too rugged for my 4 legged mate, here he waits just below the summit after a direct ascent from the west. A good walk is around the electric mountain, from the parking at Talywaen then up around Marchlyn Mawr, which is the largely artificial but natural looking top reservoir for the pumped storage scheme. Again you can see the RAF practising along the Ogwen valley below you as it is also adjacent to Y Garn. I quite like industrial archaeology and there's another pumped storage scheme nearby at Festiniog, Llyn Stwlan, which I think took power from the closed trawsfynedd nuclear plant. You can do a circular walk through the old slate works and buildings as well as feel the blast of cool air coming through the mine entrance. This was featured in a recent Bear Grylls episode I think,. One of the slate inclines is tunnelled through the ridge which you can look through to the sky.

I wonder how that compares with 150mm rock wool batts and steel profile sheeting on the outside, I'd worry about insulation on the inside getting bashed.

If you mean go electric then you have the cost of the joystick, about £700, plus the valves and solenoids. Most manual joysticks (I have them on a jussi trailer ) are standard slices with the spools actuated by a single lever that is a ball joint on each spool and a fixed part of the block, so yes I'd guess most manufacturers offer this. I''ll save rooting around then but I will be in Southwater this afternoon. Walking to memorial shortly