AHPP
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Everything posted by AHPP
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Wood grenades (or indeed any splitting wedge) are like a large displacement, high torque engine that only works at 20 rpm. Munts through anything but what’s the point. Constant resetting it. Very little work achieved. Doing straight stuff on a block gets you up to 1000 rpm in a misfiring 2002 Ford Fiesta, nearly a useful amount of work but still very inefficient doing all the block loading. Manual splitting nirvana is achieved by wading into a pile on the floor and flicking and golf swinging through it at 13,000 revs, the Formula 1 of axe work. Don’t waste effort on tricky bits; saw them or discard them. I use them as axle stands.
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Danny Green. Not a recommendation, just a bloke I know has done carving work around there.
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Started typing. Can’t be arsed. Happy shedding.
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I didn’t make a note of it and I can’t be arsed to find it again to prove a point to you. Or I’m talking shite. One of those. You do realise I was trying to do you a favour pointing out something you maybe hadn’t realised? No need to be rude.
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You gave it away when you posted about your shared driveway. I’m often tracking down people, bits of land etc and yours was a doddle (like a Haynes one or two spanner job). You’re probably fine though. Enjoy your shed.
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Not necessarily. Plenty of people on here don’t like you, know where you live and might stir up trouble remotely. Wranglerstar on YouTube has said a couple of times that he has to be squeaky clean on everything because video watchers have dobbed him in on planning/building regs matters.
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It's a shame Dakar, AER etc are so expensive. Ed March would do it on a C90 if it was cheaper.
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Back on Lyndon Poskitt, a friend was telling a motorcycling acquaintance about him (LP) going round the world on a (heavily modified) KTM 690. "Bloody good luck to him." In fairness, it actually gave him next to no problems but he has built it and rebuilt it with pretty trick parts and is fastidious on maintenance. Like how Land Rovers are fine if you replace things like gearboxes every 5000 miles.
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I watched it when Lyndon Poskitt covered it (way more interesting than his travelogues). Otherwise prefer the Africa Eco. Where was Dakar this year?
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Go on, Alec. Kick us off.
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I only have a passing interest in them but I'm aware a lot of folks enjoy the collecting, the engineering, the style etc. Had a very interesting look at a few of a fellow arbtalker's collection the other day. Anyone else into them?
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Did your chipper ever turn up there?
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Have the definitive regulations regarding firewood?
AHPP replied to cessna's topic in Firewood forum
Where are you and which species are you thinking about? -
My understanding of old engines calling for 25:1 or 40:1 (rather than contemporary standard 50:1) mixes is that those mixes were specified at a time where oil was less good so you needed more of it. My understanding follows that fuel with contemporary, better oil can be mixed at 50:1 and will be fine. My own findings back this up. I have an old (early 90s, maybe late 80s) Tecumseh engine that calls for 24:1. I started it on 25:1 and weaned it onto 50:1 over about ten tanks. It works fine on 50:1, including being held open on the governor for full minutes at a time. I've probably done forty or fifty sessions between cold with it on 50:1 and it seems fine. I use Stihl MotoMix (50:1 from the factory) and the extra oil I was adding was just cheap stuff from a motor factor.
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Do it. The point of green woodwork is expedience, pragmatism and character.
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Have the definitive regulations regarding firewood?
AHPP replied to cessna's topic in Firewood forum
John. Who are you arguing with and about what? -
Have the definitive regulations regarding firewood?
AHPP replied to cessna's topic in Firewood forum
Plus, if you sell by weight, it’s in your interests to leave as much water in them as you can get away with. Makes the market a bit sharkier and you’ll end up with the proliferation of low quality firewood like the situation with charcoal. Volume works well enough. The loose cube is standard enough and easy enough to understand. -
Yours were probably from the Sherpa people. Mine weren't.
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Same findings. I sent my narrow wheels back because they were dreadful quality but haven't rushed to replace them.
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The important thing with bats, pigeons, nests etc is that everybody is briefed to not report any they find and to kick the twigs and chip the chicks without breaking step. A massive advantage of helmet comms is being able to discreetly direct a groundsman to a flung nest without having to literally shout it from the treetops.
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That one only went to the hour meter up the top right of the machine. The spark plug is bottom left. Totally different loom going down that way. Maybe I’ll find out tomorrow when the problem returns and I have to actually fix it. EDIT: Just read that again. What you said does make more sense than what I said. It’s been a long evening and I didn’t know a lot about electrics before I piled my way through a lovely little bottle of sloe vodka. ANOTHER EDIT: The hour clock turns off when the engine turns off, fairly firmly supporting your hypothesis.
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It’s always a bad earth isn’t it but the only thing I disconnected that I could identify as an earth was a black wire between the digital hour counter and the switchbox/frame and I cleaned that the first time. Maybe just not that well? Who knows. Something I’ve always associated with machine ownership is the ability to accept that these things are sometimes just a mystery and not get too stressed about them. Whenever confronted by mechanical annoyance, I like to imagine aspen Bob dutifully and stoically traipsing round his yard, fixing things that his men have fecklessly rolled down a hill twice that month. My bad earths seem less bad.
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Annoyingly I’ve fixed it but don’t know how. I just put it back together again and it works. Obviously I also stripped a thread in aluminium while at it. Ideas about initial issue still gladly received.
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Honda GX390 on my Opico Skidster. Took the key start box off to get the fuel tank off. Cleaned tank, back together, starts on the key as normal, runs fine. Doesn’t turn off with the key. Googled it. Prime suspect some wire under the tank that goes to the magneto. Pulled tank back off, recoil and engine cover off, all looks in order. Switch box apart. All looks in order. Cleaned various contacts, scraped paint from inside of holes in frame where key box mounts. No joy. Suggestions?
