andy cobb
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Everything posted by andy cobb
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Footwear for extremely steep banks? Tree for forewood
andy cobb replied to cessna's topic in Firewood forum
What are you removing the rings/ logs with? Could you not use that vehicle to drag the timber to a safer position even if it's just a limb at a time. However you go about it be careful as wind blown on a steep bank can go wrong very quickly. -
I run a hand held breaker on a hyd power pack, I used to have an electric but found there was never electric when we needed it. Also think the hydraulic packs a bit more punch. If your not near a power point you could hire a breaker pack for the weekend.
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Have requested to join the page. As you say ,there's some real good info on there and think going 6 cylinder would make a useful yard machine especially for running the splitter which requires about 90 hp.
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Yeah was double seal liners, full kit was bought from a ford dealership and it's one of their guys who's rebuilt it. Took the guy to inspect the "new" block before I bought it and he was happy with it then after it was rebuilt he said channels for lower seal were badly corroded and liners may slip and to get shot. The damn things still not running or back in the tractor and it's been well over 12 months now! Gonna try and source a decent cargo engine and get somebody else to fit it I think. Moral of the storey : never pay your brother to do a job if you want it doing within 2 years.
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Thanks for that will have a look later:thumbup:
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Was thinking of staying away from turbos just to keep it simple with less to go wrong in the future, don't need masses of power as it's mainly going to be a yard machine with rare outings on a double drum. Everything I've managed to find online says to use a single plate clutch, which I think would disable the pto, I presume this is for tractor pulling. I'm just concerned that a live drive clutch might not fit.
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Hi all. I've just had the fordson super major engine rebuilt with new Pistons, liners etc on a different block after discovering mine was cracked front to back, however, the guy that rebuilt it ( a supposed time served ford mechanics) informed me that the engine might not last long as the new liners weren't a brilliant fit (loose) and to get rid of the tractor. Quite why he didn't tell me this when he was building it I don't know, but anyway. I like the tractor and I'm not comfortable selling somebody a machine that's not right so looking at putting a 380 n/a cargo engine in. Just wondering if anybody here has done this before and has any tips to make life a little easier, will the live drive clutch be suitable, what's the best way to mount the front axle brace bar etc. Thanks in advance for your help and comments - Andy
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That's good to know, I wasn't sure with them being almost antique if off the shelf parts had become obsolete. Just getting clutches and brake bands relined on mine, after a massive struggle to get the drums off. Are wilsons fransguard parts dealers?
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Does anybody know where to source the sprockets that clamp onto the pto shaft from? Or is it a case of having a sprocket modified? How many teeth for the 4t -Andy
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These are hopefully some pictures of the two mounts i have. The first is off the major and it sits on top of the axle and the second im not certain about but thought I'd include it anyway.
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I have a cradle for my 4 ton double that bolts around the pto shaft and also around the top of the trumpet housings on the rear axle. It's not on the machine at the moment as its getting an engine rebuild, but I can still take some photos next time I'm in the yard if it'll help
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If your dropping trees on to sticks already on the wire and then snedding your eventually going to winch in the biggest pile of brash you've ever seen, which will be a nightmare for the forwarder. Is there someone local to you that works in forestry thatcould spend a morning with you on site and help get you going. Selective felling within the matrix and winching off stump can be dangerous and is a very different game to arb. Can't knock your enthusiasm though:thumbup:
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You might find that once you get a few on the rope you struggle to steer them round the remaining trees, then you have to start un- choking them and resetting. If you've got a double drum on the mog you could set up a haul back system which more than doubles production.
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Might be worth spending a few quid on a new plug and make sure the gap is set correctly before you fit it ( sure somebody on here will know correct gap) Also remember being told a long time ago to scrape the point of a pencil onto the end of a plug if it was a poor starter, I presume something to do with the carbon igniting from the spark.
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You do have to pull the cord as though your pulling your kids from in front of a train, and as for the decomp I can't honestly tell the difference when using it and it's a new part as the old one rattled out when in use, saw did keep running though which surprised me.
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I think you might struggle to achieve that in a day if your selective thinning, you might find that you have to winch a great many off the stump to get them on the ground because you won't have a hole to drop them into. This really steady things up. Good luck with it, should be a nice enjoyable job if your not under pressure to make the timber pay. Timber will always be saleable when you get it road side:thumbup1:
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I used to build box tipplers when I worked for a company called agri weld years ago. We tried a hydraulic moter onto a crown wheel to give continuos rotation but found that as the weight went over centre it would jam the gears and wear on the gears was excessive. Have seen the idea used on tipplers for rolls of paper and such where the load doesn't shift while in rotation. Think broadwater used to make a tippler with worm gear but never got to look inside 1
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Was thinking of putting a beak on my old masted forklift, thought if I made the actual arm on a socket I could swap it for a straight arm and use it to lift ibc cages off there pallet bases to empty them into the back of the truck.
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God only knows why there all upside down.
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Would be next to useless for shoving chip I expect, but for what I use it for it's ideal, especially when combined with a Couple of tip skips.
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Fitted cross plys to my zetor and flat spotting is a big problem, to the point where if you go on the road first thing it's limited to about 15 mph for the first 5 mins, even worse if you've got something on the rear link arms as it swings like a pendulum My tyres are cheap malhorras, so that could be part of the problem.
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Keeping stuff separate is a fantastic idea in theory, but after a shitty day on site when all you want to do is get home or pub it's all too easy to just push the button and tip everything in one heap with the good intention of sorting it tomorrow night. On the original subject , I've a front end tractor loader and find it really poor vision for picking up pallets and crates and also the room needed to manoeuvre is huge, bought an old bonser masted truck and it gets used more than any other machine in yard.
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When Ive made splitter heads in the past I've found it cheaper to go to an ag engineers and buy the off cuts from bucket wearing edges. Usually a few kicking around, they're harder than normal and just need the edge sharpening up.
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Ok bud. Thank you
