Old Mill Tree Care

I'm setting loose, slightly loose, tight, tight as a muthafu##a and anything everywhere in between.

I've started using 10mm Beeline on Cougar Blue and it just binds up after a 3ft decent. I'm trying different hitch knot configurations but nothing's working. Any ideas? Thanks. It's driving me crazy!

Ford F-150 Raptor Hennesey is the right one to choose because it has the most horse power.

I'd go back to the day before I decided to do tree work. Then I'd decide to do something else.

No. I don't run any top handled saws on Aspen because the exhaust is generally blown away from the operator. Of course I know it's better for the engine too.

Well if your considering a Lockjack, why are you posting on the SRT Forum? Anyway, I'd recommend the Hitch Hiker for many reasons that tick all the boxes for my requirements. Other will have other opinions because there are so many devices on the market now, choice is a very personal thing depending upon what suits your style.

It's just over a year old. I bought it from Skyland Equipment who have been superb with after sales service. I've had phone calls and messages from them just trying to help out with the rattling problem. I also mentioned that the rear AV spring was bending and hey-presto, a stronger replacement arrived in the post. I've said it before, I always seriously consider customer support when I'm about to spend money and Skyland come out 10/10.

Yep. I bought one years ago and two Tempur pillows. Money well spent.

I agree, you never know when the client may appear with a cup of tea!

I know hahaha! I almost didn't put that post up because it's embarrassing. Lol!

So I greased the needle bearing and the rattle has gone. Hooray! BTW, I really like my t540. It doesn't start as easily as my 200T but otherwise I think it's great. I have not used a 201t.

If you mean spiking on the pole for the final part of a dismantle then yes, choke your main line round the stem and use your lanyard or flip line to position yourself.

Not that Stubby. The original bar was made from porridge and lasted three minutes. The new Oregon bar has made no difference to chain tension and I've tried three different types of chain.

Well that's the annoying thing. The chain on my saw tightens and loosens itself when ever it feels like it. Some days not at all. The next day, ten times damn it! The chain is hardly ever at the correct tension and I have no control over it.

Yes it is only on idle.

Trailer places sell those things Al. However, I'd save time and money by easing the lads finger through the hole to stop the wheel falling off. Apply Vaseline first though otherwise some would regard you as cruel. (Being bent over all day will strengthen his back so it's all good!)

TP do them as well but I'd get a Bandit, given the choice.

Did that two weeks ago and you're right, it was silent. Clutch springs looked ok at a glance but I'll look again, carefully.

I forgot to say that it's intermittent. Can work for a few hours then suddenly starts rattling like hell, or just a bit. Makes no sense. Just greased the needle bearing and see what happens.

Here is a better video of the rattle. It sounds like there is a bit of metal from a beer can inside! http://youtu.be/K7zyLIuEp5A

My saw started rattling a while ago. Can't find the source of the noise. Here's a video of it but you have to listen carefully, it's much worse in the flesh. I'll post a better vid later when I've uploaded it to YouTube. Any ideas? http://youtu.be/emn5uzKYCOI

Don't take the 70 ton thing as gospel as I can't remember exactly but I do know that when a headsail flogs on a heavy cruising yacht, the stresses are biblical. Never mind the loading a on a VOR70 doing 35 knots! I've seen a rope snap and the corner of the sail hit a man on the head. Split his skull clean apart! I don't think a winch would even feel a 20ft tree branch. Lol!

I have a Stein RC3002 and attaching the lifting arm and disconnecting it does use a few seconds compared to using a GRCS but the reality is that it is only a few seconds. It doesn't make a difference. You're comment about the quality and strength of the winch on the RCW is a valid point. However, I used to work on yachts and when you see a sail on a big boat flog accidentally and shocking load the winch (70 tons easily) you'd appreciate just how strong a winch is. Winches never break, the boat does. In tree work you will destroy the tree or rip a yacht winch off the mount plate long before the winch itself breaks. Anyway, you'd always disconnect the RCW winch before the branch is cut. My point is, I'm sure the Stein RCW winch is way more than adequate for our purposes and the device to choose is the one that ticks most boxes for your working style. For me it would be the RCW. If only I could sell my beloved RC3002 Dual!

Just being your American ropes then.

I reckon it's Silky Fox. He's friggin everywhere, from Newcastle to Landsend!