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Matthew Storrs

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Everything posted by Matthew Storrs

  1. Matthew Storrs
    Iv no experience from the clipex system, but from what I can gather from the videos it will surely only work in prime good soils, what happens if your on hard ground and need a bit of clout to get the posts in- would it stand up to a tractor mounted driver hitting the posts-would have thought they would just buckle? also it seems the system only works if you can guarantee being able to knock each post fully into depth each time. and Id love to see those strainers assemblies holding upto even remotely soft peat. Im not sold but would happily give it a go in 'real world' hill conditions and see...
  2. Matthew Storrs
    Chestnut, durable but can be a bit of a bugger for splitting- particularly when driven into hard ground. Creosote- probably the best in terms of durability but expensive- almost double that of Chestnut. Various UC4 treated softwood usually with guarantees, which usually aren't worth the paper they are written on I think id go for 5inch round chestnuts out of all of the above.
  3. Matthew Storrs
    is the head cracked jon? can't you just get the old one re-skimmed ? keep the 300tdi- excellent trucks.
  4. Matthew Storrs
    Sounds Terri-ble!
  5. Matthew Storrs
    He was there too, on the forwarder.
  6. Matthew Storrs
    Sure was! down near Camelford. had a hell of a pull on it, but I was surprised it doesn't put a twisting force on the boom being up that high.
  7. Matthew Storrs
    I find tensioning tracks too much can have the opposite effect, there is meant to be a bit of give in a track to allow it to contort and flex as necessary, I think just tension it up as your meant to and just be cautious going over the rough stuff, like Stephen I have only had track come off twice in over a year- both times in the most awkward situation ever!
  8. Matthew Storrs
    Ahh, shame you are so far away, I was working alongside a brilliant outfit the other day, remote controlled winch mounted up on the top of the boom of a 13 ton Doosan. pulling trees up an over a steep bank, never seen a setup like it but really was the tool for for this particular job. perhaps a bit small for what your after though...
  9. Matthew Storrs
    I think it depends on what context, every dog, like most of us will have a breaking point and if pushed persistenly will snap, I wouldn't have a dog put to sleep for that reason, rehomed possibly...
  10. Matthew Storrs
    my collie (who wouldn't harm a fly)once came into the room with a bit of a limp followed a short while after by my nephew (3 years old), collie turned around and barred his teeth at him and growled (in quite an aggressive manner), it wasn't until we realised that the nephew had been chasing hi round the house trying to stand on collies toes that we realised why. I do get what difflock is saying, but really the situation should be extinguished/child taught a lesson before the dog gets to the growling stage.... lesson learnt.
  11. Matthew Storrs
    rubber tracks do come off if your not careful on rough ground, the trick is to try and catch them before they come fully off- if they're just popping off in a skip then they probably not tensioned enough, I find as soon as I hear that popping/grinding noise I know the track is working its way off and sometimes I can pick the track of the floor and reverse it back on- which saves the grease gun!
  12. Matthew Storrs
    I wouldn't mind a twin blade myself- I use my digger with a post knocker a lot and have to use the blade to level the machine and hence drive the post straight- if I had a blade front and back I wouldn't have to spin the machine around when the slope changed.
  13. Matthew Storrs
  14. Matthew Storrs
    I don't think the blade is supposed to be anywhere in particular, its a tool to help out depending on the situation, either way it steadys the machine by being down- some older larger machines don't even have blades at all. Definiately having the blade in front helps when cleaning up with a grading bucket.
  15. Matthew Storrs
    I put the blade in front of me when digging- it reduces stress on the track motors and the blade is handy particularly when cleaning up with the grading bucket. Don't turn on the spot with tracks, I tend to do it in gradual movements as I travel to reduce mess. there are no set rules though, for example the blade can be used to level the machine when grading off- particulalrly if you don't have a tilt/rotator hitch. I think theres not much folk can really teach you- like anything the more you do something you soon get more fluent as you go along.
  16. Matthew Storrs
    gripple will easily strain 50meters of plain wire- just pull as much slack through by hand then use the gripple gun to tweak it up tight. I use the Hayes wire strainers which last for ever pretty much - standard contractors tool. Not sure on cheaper ones as I have never used them- sure they would be fine for occasional use.
  17. Matthew Storrs
    Yes I remember a contractor I did some work for had one- I want to say Premier but I don't think that is quite right - all I remember is that it was yellow and ripped the wood out of your hands!
  18. Matthew Storrs
    Hmm possibly- I found it compulsory viewing myself- I like cop/crime series, I thought Happy Valleys was good but mate of mine reckons it was a modern day heartbeat!
  19. Matthew Storrs
    Luther is a good series if you haven't already seen it. We're watching Mad Men at the moment- hardly action packed yet I still look forwards to watching it.
  20. Matthew Storrs
    Yes I like that the wrag digger one has a full length mast rather than the 'leg' which protech have, however I find that its all a bit of a chuckle brothers process getting the mast lined up with the post on the digger ones which is why I prefer the design of the vector one- http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=HN.608044353120830147&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0 you don't have to worry from the cab that the mast is exactly plumb, just make adjusts as you knock it in and the man on the ground just uses the spirit level on the post. Also you can press down on the post with the weight of the machine which is surpisingly more effective at making the post go in. My old digger knocker was of this design but it was too lightly built and keeps cracking welds/mast
  21. Matthew Storrs
    Ooh Mikey, gone over to the dark side (protech), Wrag will strike your picture off their website... that was your machine on there wasn't it!?
  22. Matthew Storrs
    Yes totally agree with that last sentence, we've just finished a job where every post had to be rockspiked first, if you didn't spike it, then you either snap the stake or the point would splay up and not go anywhere, rockspiking each hole was a little time consuming but at least the job was do-able. Just about to order a new postdriver for the digger- can't decide between the Protech or Vector one.
  23. Matthew Storrs
    I try to avoid creosote myself- nasty stinking stuff. I don't really even like 'creocote' much either- who knows what it has in it. I prefer chestnut- no nasty chemicals and lasts well too. Downside it can be a pain for splitting when your knocking them in.
  24. Matthew Storrs
    Whatever you do- if you decide to go for the protech p200 go for the 'tele' version which means you can side shift along the fenceline- saves so much faffing around and does a much neater job as you can continually make small adjustments to keep the post going in straight and the mast parallel with the stake.
  25. Matthew Storrs
    Awesome- should leave just enough space for that massive steel tool box too then:thumbup1:

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