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Matthew Storrs

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Everything posted by Matthew Storrs

  1. I stick a bar through the reel then stick it in one of the holes where the canopy bars are meant to go on a landrover pickup- can unroll 200meters of barb in about a minute! Otherwise 2 of you one on each side of the bar makes it sooo much easier but I used to do it on my own a lot using your method and always felt like I had biceps like popeye by the time I got to the end- worst was when it was unreeling and the barbs snagged on your jumper- ripped many jumpers/skin in this fashion!
  2. I would be very wary of this combination myself tb016 + 800mm flail. in order to use the flail efficiently you will want to be able to slew and flail at the same time plus small arm movements to. I used to have a Takeuchi tb016 and as an example if I was tracking along then arm movements at the same time would be very limited/low power. Not saying it can't be done- but take the stated specs with a pinch of salt, there are a lot of variables to consider.
  3. IV got a RSL engineering 5 tine grab on my 3 tonner - well over engineered and really well built- I use it for shifting granite boulders/ timber the lot and its hardly worn at all over a years constant use. I had a Digbits grab before- well built but I thought it was far too small for the machine they said it was built for.
  4. Depends on the price I would say- it would have to be pretty cheap to be worth it to be honest, I can't speak for the newer JCB minis but the few sub 3 ton ones I have used have been pretty gutless. the Takeuchi tb016 I used to have had bags of power in comparison.
  5. I'm the same as you Stephen, been working with my 3 tonner for 18 months now- I couldn't live without this size of machine given how many jobs it has been used where access is restricted, but now I think I could use a 5-8 tonner a fair bit too. I also think it could really expand my options for work too and hiring kit has problems written all over it. IMO after 3 ton you start to get a lot more metal for your money, transport is also an issue for me- I have a tractor but a decent low loader trailer is 7k or so and that'll pay for a lot of haulage where I wouldn't have the added hassle of keeping legal etc. either a Takeucho tb175 or tb145 would suit me nicely- I just can't see past Takeuchi's but they do hold their value like no-ones business.
  6. I'm going to stick my neck out and say, I like a good quality instant as much as filter, carte noire does it for me, not too strong either, I,d prefer 2 cups of weaker coffee than 1 strong one. if ground coffe I have taylors Lazy Sunday. Give me a cup of tea any day- I drink that by the gallon.
  7. Mine is 6550kg GTW, landrover itself can be 3050 and can also tow 3500kg. this is a 110300tdi hicap. I believe most 130 landrovers can be 7000gtw
  8. I have had 4 tons of additional weight on my landrover today- in my experience its not necessarily how much weight you are towing but how hard you push it. I don't force anything with mine for example with long uphill drags I just select a nice comfortable low gear where I don't have to have my foot to the floor to keep it going and just chog my way up- yes it might only do 20mph up a hill with 3 tons on but my tractor wouldn't do it any faster either. I agree, maintenance is key and just being in tune with your motor.
  9. 300 tdi hicap of mine tows 2.8ton digger with 500kg of attachments in the pickup bed- and its not flat here on Dartmoor either! Brilliant truck!
  10. I love the scene with the tax inspectors in his caravan and farts.
  11. Iv no experience from the clipex system, but from what I can gather from the videos it will surely only work in prime good soils, what happens if your on hard ground and need a bit of clout to get the posts in- would it stand up to a tractor mounted driver hitting the posts-would have thought they would just buckle? also it seems the system only works if you can guarantee being able to knock each post fully into depth each time. and Id love to see those strainers assemblies holding upto even remotely soft peat. Im not sold but would happily give it a go in 'real world' hill conditions and see...
  12. Chestnut, durable but can be a bit of a bugger for splitting- particularly when driven into hard ground. Creosote- probably the best in terms of durability but expensive- almost double that of Chestnut. Various UC4 treated softwood usually with guarantees, which usually aren't worth the paper they are written on I think id go for 5inch round chestnuts out of all of the above.
  13. is the head cracked jon? can't you just get the old one re-skimmed ? keep the 300tdi- excellent trucks.
  14. He was there too, on the forwarder.
  15. Sure was! down near Camelford. had a hell of a pull on it, but I was surprised it doesn't put a twisting force on the boom being up that high.
  16. I find tensioning tracks too much can have the opposite effect, there is meant to be a bit of give in a track to allow it to contort and flex as necessary, I think just tension it up as your meant to and just be cautious going over the rough stuff, like Stephen I have only had track come off twice in over a year- both times in the most awkward situation ever!
  17. Ahh, shame you are so far away, I was working alongside a brilliant outfit the other day, remote controlled winch mounted up on the top of the boom of a 13 ton Doosan. pulling trees up an over a steep bank, never seen a setup like it but really was the tool for for this particular job. perhaps a bit small for what your after though...
  18. I think it depends on what context, every dog, like most of us will have a breaking point and if pushed persistenly will snap, I wouldn't have a dog put to sleep for that reason, rehomed possibly...
  19. my collie (who wouldn't harm a fly)once came into the room with a bit of a limp followed a short while after by my nephew (3 years old), collie turned around and barred his teeth at him and growled (in quite an aggressive manner), it wasn't until we realised that the nephew had been chasing hi round the house trying to stand on collies toes that we realised why. I do get what difflock is saying, but really the situation should be extinguished/child taught a lesson before the dog gets to the growling stage.... lesson learnt.
  20. rubber tracks do come off if your not careful on rough ground, the trick is to try and catch them before they come fully off- if they're just popping off in a skip then they probably not tensioned enough, I find as soon as I hear that popping/grinding noise I know the track is working its way off and sometimes I can pick the track of the floor and reverse it back on- which saves the grease gun!
  21. I wouldn't mind a twin blade myself- I use my digger with a post knocker a lot and have to use the blade to level the machine and hence drive the post straight- if I had a blade front and back I wouldn't have to spin the machine around when the slope changed.
  22. I don't think the blade is supposed to be anywhere in particular, its a tool to help out depending on the situation, either way it steadys the machine by being down- some older larger machines don't even have blades at all. Definiately having the blade in front helps when cleaning up with a grading bucket.
  23. I put the blade in front of me when digging- it reduces stress on the track motors and the blade is handy particularly when cleaning up with the grading bucket. Don't turn on the spot with tracks, I tend to do it in gradual movements as I travel to reduce mess. there are no set rules though, for example the blade can be used to level the machine when grading off- particulalrly if you don't have a tilt/rotator hitch. I think theres not much folk can really teach you- like anything the more you do something you soon get more fluent as you go along.

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