spudulike

TBH, on a typical 0.5mm paper gasket, a smear of grease is all I use with exception of those rubber covered steel ones fited on large Stihls that get a light smear of liquid gasket! The vac test will hopefully show a seal that is on the way out - tha vacuum will draw the oil or grease in and seal the leak if there is one:thumbup:

GO back to the vacuum check, having removed the flywheel and clutch/oil pump and oiler worm drive pinion, do the vac test again and see the vacuum drop from 0.5 - 0.4 bar and then turn the saw on its side. Put oil around the seal or grease and repeat the test - if you get no shift in the vacuum then that seal needs replacing - if you still get the drop, try it on the other side of the saw and see if it halts the loss of vacuum. I reckon you have a slight air leak that doesn't show much under testing but is worse on running. Just done a MS460 and it was exactly like this - gotta get clever to fix stuff like this - you get out what you put in:thumbup: Cost of shipping to and from Ireland will be bloody expensive - choice is yours - all I will be doing is what I have described here in this thread!

Busy day today, finished putting the tank on the MS201, put the cylinder back on the MS460 - found a lot of crap in the gauze filter - could well be the cause of the seizure - reset the metering arm height. The pressure check was fine but the clutch side seal leaks under vacuum - bugger, some more work to be done. Just started porting and muffler modding a 338XPT

These pics are for Albe013: -

Got an MS201 in needing a new fuel tank - cracked around the seam. It is the first one I have worked on and first impressions are that the plastics seem a bit flimsy and thin when compared to the MS200T Not feeling the love either on taking it apart, bit more fiddly than the MS200T! Also got an MS460 in for repairing a seizure, the bore is pretty marked and not as clean as I like them but am fitting a Meteor piston and reckon it will be fine as the worst of the marking is under the exhaust port so misses the ring at BDC.

CR500 - one of the lads at work had a CR250 Red Rocket - another guy had a go on it and found out why it had this name, he was a moped man and came back white as a ghost:001_rolleyes: All I know was I had a CB400/4 and the bloke came past me on the back wheel down the lanes and I never saw him again:lol: Bloody fast!

Huh - it is a 45cc petrol saw:confused1: Looks like a powerful beast, may just sell the 357/346 and go out and buy one:blushing: They will probably be OK for a couple of years logging for the log burner but the build quality will always be suspect against Stihl/Husqvarna and other mainstream manufacturers.

There is FR Jones on this site, Gustharts, other site sponsers, if you are an online fiend then Mr Solutions or LSE engineers are good, other than that, dig out your local agent!

Beginning to feel the same way about your saws...just to recap, do either of your 024 Stihls work fine with any of the carbs you have? If the new carb is having the same effect on both the saws you have, it looks like the carb is at fault unless both machines have exactly the same issue - this is not inconceivable! The saw turned on its side playing up is probably either puddled fuel in the crank case causing issues or a sign of the crankcase seals not being good. If you leave the saw idleing for a few minutes and then give it a yank on the throttle, do you get a cloud of smoke or is it relatively clean, a cloud of smoke indicates the idle is a little rich and fuel is gathering in the crankcase and the carb needs leaning up. Is the fuel line and filter in good nick, is the fuel line long enough and is the breather clear? Probably said all this before! Have you also done a thorough vac test on the saw - it is possible that a saw may leak under vcuum and not under pressure or vice versa. The new carb not working is baffling - a new carb would generally dial in pretty quickly and only older carbs with wear on them generally exhibit tuning issues! I think I am nearing the end of my road where I can't do much else without inspecting the saw and that is in no way an invitation, think you can keep those saws to yourself:lol:

There is no way that the 020AVT was manufactured in 2005, the MS200T came about around 2000, before that the 020T was the saw to have so a rough estimate for the last 020AVT to be manufactured would be circa late 80s to early 90s - don't know the exact dates and am assuming a 10 year production run!

FYI, the one I did had the plating bubbling on the needle valve making it stick - worth stripping down that carb and checking it out as once it is back in, it isn't easy to get out again:thumbdown: Not bad saws once done, have a fair bit of torque and are noisy:thumbup:

Pressure checks are always done with the inlet port blanked off between the carb and the cylinder and the carb is only deemed suspect if the idle is found to be up and down and is traced back to leaks in the carb, the only thing we don't know is if your carb is OK or not. The spraying of the fluid over the throttle shaft showed a dramatic change which I would think is suspect but TBH, have not tried this as it has never been an issue! The tuning of a carb is a bit of a personal skill. Your comment about setting the idle with a tach is misleading as you could set the revs at 2,500 rpm with the L screw on mixture only and any idle screw setting but it doesn't mean it is correct!! I usually set the idle screw so the pointed part of the idle screw contacts the throttle lever around the middle - this is just the start. I usually fire the saw up, screw the L screw in until the saw races due to the idle being lean and on the point of it dying, take the screw back out past the highest revs point and around 1/4 turn more until I hit my popping sweet spot and THEN use the idle to adjust the revs to around 2,800rpm. If the saw idle is too low through this, I screw the idle in and if it is too high and I am not achieving the tune I have just described, I turn the idle screw out. I have a feel for making this sort of adjustment based on doing it hundeds of times - not showing off or being big headed - it is just what I can do and have some sort of affinity with machines in this way:thumbup: If you follow the above, the idle MIX, and SPEED are correct, you can just set the carb to factory 1 turn out L&H screw and then just adjust the idle screw, you end up with the saw running OK 4 out of 5 times!

A couple of weeks ago on IE, AVG was throwing up a warning about some Trojan when I came on Arbtalk but was at work so just deleted the threat and carried on:thumbup:

Mmm, it is circlips with me - flipin little buggers just shoot out and vanish:001_rolleyes:

Last part of that vid sounded like the starting grid of the 250 pro am races of the 1980s - all Yamaha TZ250s:thumbup:

The 020AV is a bit of a pig to work on - I had one apart and put some images on the "Whats on your bench" thread, This parts list may help you:- 020_t_020_275.pdf

I have to say, the 024 can be a little sod, sold one to a local guy, seemed OK but it came back with an unstable idle. Rebuilt the carb with a new kit, cleaned it in the US cleaner and it seemed OK but it came back again so I put another secondhand carb on it and it was fine:confused1: Rebuilt another 024, tried the same troublesome carb and it was perfect on the saw, got it hot, tached it, all good - hope it stays that way as the guy next door but one has it but it seemed very stable and dialed in to good idle and revving straight away???? Your saw is a bit weird, perhaps there is some other factor and we are missing it - I said before that one of my troubles was the carb impulse connector not making good contact with the impulse hose but we have rulled that out. It may be worth rebuilding the carb - set the metering arm so it is level with the carb body or it may have a raised lip around the metering arm - use this if it does! Set the saw to 3/4 turn out on each screw - I have had frouble with blowback of fuel on to the air filter if set richer - we will set it up later! Start the saw up and turn the L screw out until the saw revs drop, turn back in until they peak and start to drop, undo until the saw drops in idle speed again and the engine note sounds sort of poppy, then set the H screw so the saw revs out and try it again. It is possible you set the carb a little lean, this can cause issues and some 024s are little buggers to set up right. If the saw was a little richer, a bit of extra air through the throttle shaft would make less difference!

Think that saw needs a little work - big discounts for Russian blondes:thumbup: Sorry,,,,good looking Russian Blondes - don't want any of you Arb fellas turning up in drag speaking Russian....there again, it would make a good thread:lol:

Nah, the pointy bit was well away from his extremities:lol: The fast idle setting probably doesnt work too well but sounds sweetl and for an older smaller saw, pulls well in the cut - reckon it may well embarass a few larger saws:thumbup:

Well it looks like you have now found out where the air leak is - your carb is looking a bit suspect to me, can you try another carb out to see if it works better? The loose shaft will explain the varying idle speed - wonder if the seller is putting Walbro covers on Chinese carbs???

Ah the joys of being a Stihl dealer:thumbup: Thanks Barrie - saved Jammy getting his pinkies dirty again:lol:

I would hope if the casting says "Walbro" it is genuine. I was thinking of a test like you mention, the pressure would force the sealent or a heavy grease in to the shaft gap so is worth a try by all means - it may give you an idea if this is the only problem area.

Exactly - I only saw a topless blonde:confused1:

Is this carb, a brand new off the shelf from a known dealer, boxed carb or an ebay special:blushing: I find it difficult to accept that the throttle shaft leak would stop a saw holding any pressure - it will let through some air but small amounts, the wear would cause an uneven idle that you do have. If I get time, I do have a second hand carb for and 026 in my collection and if time allows, will try it out.

Quite a common problem on older machines, the saw will often run but will stall or bog if the top handle is moved about or the saw is revved up. Saved a few bucks on a new carb - the rubber boot isn't that cheap though:thumbdown: Glad it is fixed:thumbup: