spudulike

Have you thought about a change of job:lol: Not sure there is much I can do to help - £10 for both the saws:lol: Sorry our long dialogue has come to nothing but frustration - these are the sort of problems that sort the men from the boys....and keep me awake at night. List them on ebay if you cant fix them - shame you aren't a bit closer as I would have taken it on and hopefully sorted it. If the pressure and vac test is solid with almost zero leakage then the job is a good one and can't understand the problem without inspection. Sorry:thumbdown:

Have you thought about a change of job:lol: Not sure there is much I can do to help - £10 for both the saws:lol: Sorry our long dialogue has come to nothing but frustration - these are the sort of problems that sort the men from the boys....and keep me awake at night. List them on ebay if you cant fix them - shame you aren't a bit closer as I would have taken it on and hopefully sorted it. If the pressure and vac test is solid with almost zero leakage then the job is a good one and can't understand the problem without inspection. Sorry:thumbdown:

Sounds like the route cause for lack of compression hasn't been found, I usually test for leakage by pressure testing the saw, if you suspect a leaking decomp, washing up liquid and water brushed around the base of the decomp will show it leaking. You could try the washing up solution and then turn the saw over slowly and see if you get bubbles. Typical loss of compression is a seize or semi seized piston, how was the old piston - clean on the exhaust side? How was the cylinder bore - plating in good condition - scored, worn??? lack of compression is generally down to seized or worn piston, rings or aluminium transfer on the bore from seizure. If oil (really fuel and oil) is leaking from the decomp - it is probably a sign that the valve is leaking - if you run the saw like this it will either seize or may drop the decomp valve in to the cylinder - both rather unpleasant and expensive. Let us know how you get on

Sounds like the route cause for lack of compression hasn't been found, I usually test for leakage by pressure testing the saw, if you suspect a leaking decomp, washing up liquid and water brushed around the base of the decomp will show it leaking. You could try the washing up solution and then turn the saw over slowly and see if you get bubbles. Typical loss of compression is a seize or semi seized piston, how was the old piston - clean on the exhaust side? How was the cylinder bore - plating in good condition - scored, worn??? lack of compression is generally down to seized or worn piston, rings or aluminium transfer on the bore from seizure. If oil (really fuel and oil) is leaking from the decomp - it is probably a sign that the valve is leaking - if you run the saw like this it will either seize or may drop the decomp valve in to the cylinder - both rather unpleasant and expensive. Let us know how you get on

Purdy.......Man, business must be good:thumbup:

Britain were the largest car and motorcycle manufacturers and were caught out by the Japanese just doing it that bit better, they took a look at what the UK needed and got it spot on, we had the Triumph twin, they came out with the Honda 750/4 - Oh, it didn't leak oil, was smooth, fast and....it didn't leak oil - caused quite a stir! Same with the cars, built small little shopping cars for families, all we could do was incorporate our companies in to the likes of NVT and British Leyland and the Unions did the rest - I remember the news back in the 70s, not nice viewing! I was 20 years in manufacturing, the trouble is that nowerdays people expect an App on their I Phone to fix everything for them, they have little interest in how things are manufactured or can be repaired - another 20 years and unless there is a shift in World economies, our manufacturing will be finished. The only hope is China will develop and their product prices will rise - that is starting to happen now and they are becoming more mechanised in their manufacturing - it won't last forever!

You may like to try lookng at the spark arrestor in the muffler. If this is blocked, it may cause similar issues to the ones you describe. Whip the top cover off, by the side of the exhaust/muffler outlet will be a small screw, undo it and slide out the thin gauze arrestor - you can run the saw without it if not using the saw near tinder dry brash/undergrowth or just make sure it is clear of carbon/shyte and replace. Worth a try and an easy job:thumbup:

The black plug means the saw is running rich which is unusual if the saw has been running fine before. It is worth checking that the air filter is clean and isn't causing a choke like effect on the carb. Other than that, the H screw on the carb should be one turn out and if more will make the saw rev low flat out, smoke a bit and produce a black pliug. If the plug is graphite grey, be worried as it is a sign of overheating and may cause some damage. If you get stuck, I know the saws inside out and can sort it oit PDQ for a reasonable price if you want otherwise, I may be able to help just by offering online help.

Black and Decker electric saw followed by a Stihl 009 and ten a Husqvarna 345.......followed by rather too many to mention!

I think it will be down to fitting a push in grommet and using a standard piece of fuel line to make the seal - that is what I would try!

It is true, a guy in the states ported an 026 Stihl and it ran a couple of degrees cooler after porting due to the exhaust gasses being cleared at a faster rate than before. The opening of the exhaust and inlet ports may cause faster wear on the piston ring but if done within recognised parameters, the saw should have a good lifetime after porting.

My observations on the correct grinding of chains - 1) Only lightly touch the chain with the grinding wheel before lifting it again, keep "brushing" the chain with the wheel to avoid overheating - if the cutter glows with orange heat then forget it, you will only ever be able to grind that chain in future. 2) The grinding disks after a period of use will become less effective - you will see this as less sparks coming off the grinder - the disk has become glazed, solution - break the glaze, I use a diamond file but am sure there are a number of other methods. You will se a big difference in sparks after doing this. The tempering argument - the cutter is small and doesnt hold heat well, if you overgrind it, it will glow orange and then cool rapidly and will under temper the metal leaving it damn hard and normally blue. Best solution is to grind as above with care. I only use a £30 grinder but it does the trick as I use it with care and precision - any beat up chain is brought back in to spec faster and better with a grinder - light touch ups or tickles can be achieved with a file in field or workshop - thats my opinion for what its worth:thumbup:

The tuning on these older carbs is a bit fiddly, the L setting depends on what the H setting is and vice versa, your best bet is to set the machine to factory - 1 & 1/4 turns out on both and see what gives, if it is running rich at the top end then adjust this in and see what the effects to the idle are. The saw is a bit fiddly to get right but it is generally a case of going from one adjustment to the other and eventually you will get it right! THe not revving out OK sounds like the H is either too lean or too rich, too rich gives a lot of smoke and faltering top end whilst too lean just makes the top end die. The lack of cutting power can be down to the L screw set too lean - as I say, it comes with experience. Try the factory settinngs and see what gives and tweak from there. The metering arm setting will affect the mixture as well - too high and it will be too rich! good luck

Once had a Ryobi saw that had most of its internal side covers melted because the owner left the brake on and couldn't understand why the chain wasnt spinning - wonder if he drives round with the handbrake on! Good advice though! It is also worth cleaning the brake mechanism out once a year - seen some real corkers - amazing the brakes still work! They tend to feel a bit dull on actuation though instead of snapping on crisply when gunked up!

Would you notice:lol: no disrespect to the carver:blushing:

Got the chaps name wrong dohh - it is Infinitree (Rob) the name is too clever for me:blushing: - anyway - he is one of the good guys, that is for sure!

The only problem with putting on the chainbrake and looking for slippage of the chain brake is that the saw has a lot less power at low revs so may pass this test and then fail at higher revs when the saw is making full power. I wouldnt do a wide open throttle test every day but do this test on everything that comes my way as part of a rebuild or service - it is a safety device so I give it a damn good jolt and look for an instant stop and a good snap action of the mechanism. I guess it is a bit like testing a cars brakes at 5mph compared to slamming them on at 50mph! The slow speed test may be more suitable to do on a daily/weekly basis.

No, sounded fine, had a wobble near the end after he had left to collect it when the seller phoned and asked what time he was arriving:001_rolleyes: All ended up OK, it has been re-boxed and the courier re-booked - another £7.50!! Your story was a corker - the wife couldn't believe it!

Mmmm, worked out very fast that they wern't worth doing up - make good doorstops though:lol: Think this one has aged me:blushing:

You to:thumbup: The only reason I carry business cards is to remind me who I am and where I need to go each morning:lol:

All sorted thanks to a chap called Rob (Infiniti) at Infiniti tree care-http://www.infinitreecare.co.uk/ , picked up today at 30 mins notice, a true gent and got further with him in an hour than four days with the sellers of the saw:001_rolleyes: He earns my gratitude and some real mates rates on any saw of his choice that needs repair or servicing - the least I can do:thumbup: Thanks again to all offers and to Rob (Infiniti) - Cheers

Got no data on Dolmars - sorry, 9600 sounds megga rich as even old Stihl 009/010 rev out at 10500 and old non reed induction saws at circa 12,500. YOu can do it by ear - a good backup! 150psi is good

You may as well ask for the Holy Grail - got more chance of finding one! Is the old one really toast? I have salvaged many!

Thanks again, the saw is at Mountfield - TN32 5 3 miles south of Robertsbridge I will have a think and see what works. Cheers

The compression at 170psi is very good, the saw should idle at 2,400 rpm and rev out at 12,000rpm so your saw is idling a little high and running very fat at the top end. Glad the clutch springs sorted it, it usually does:thumbup: