spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Well one has two hours on it, the other a lot more - the older one has barely enough power to pull the chain around and then...POW, it finds its kahunas and revs like mad. Just no power off idle. I am going to try it in wood when the revs are up and see if it pulls, if it does, I will loosen the exhaust and see if it revs out a little better and drill the thing if it helps. The carb has some sort of plastic ring stuck up it on the throttle side that must stop the flow of fuel/air quite a bit - I may just see what happens if you run it with it removed - can't believe how bad these are - the 335XPT needs the revs built up a bit but these are terrible! Will see how the low hours one goes - all a learning curve:001_rolleyes:
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Just the one on the 123:lol:
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18 or 20", something like that!
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There you go - a picture paints a thousand words:thumbup:
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Picked up a couple of BG85 blowers over the weekend, thinking about porting one if I get the chance:thumbup: Been trying to sort out a couple of MS201s, seriously unimpressed with the pickup, seen more go in an arthritic pensioner:lol:
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The saw doesn't need the crankcases split as it is of non convential design. The crank case isn't vertically split making the job much easier. The cylinder sits on an upper crank and spacer, Strange design but good for you. I believe the seal forms part of the Bearing.
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Just don't let the wife at it - the U bend will be gleaming:001_rolleyes:
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TBH, I picked it up and am storing it for a mate so over to him in a week or two:lol: I guess it may have homing properties:001_rolleyes:
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It is a Sealey twin arm one for very small bores, I have tweaked it a little but it works on the ones that need it and reckon it will help new pistons bed in that bit quicker! Just need to take care on the ports as they do catch if not careful!
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I always thought it not possible but someone else said they had had success doing it so experimented with a shot cylinder and it worked OK. The Yanks use a "Soft Hone" - a bog brush made with rubber filament impregnated with carbide - that works but they are damn expensive. Just find out what works and use it:thumbup:
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Picked up a little saw for a local guy I know, it is a vintage 070 and actually looks like it is in good condition. The saw has 155psi and fired with a little carb cleaner in it so reckon it will go:thumbup: For those not aquainted with the 070 - I have put a MS200T next to it to demonstrate how big it is:lol:
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Nice one, good to see it waking up Kent:thumbup:
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You can but you take it very easy - much easier that on a cast iron liner - the ports are a bit of a pain but you adjust it so you just skim the surface, use lots of oil and do it for a short time - it will help with bedding in the new piston as it breaks the glaze. I never used to do this but have found it does give a good finish but the art is doing it ever so lightly!
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Depends on how bad they are but tend to do both but only lightly with the hone on its lightest setting:thumbup:
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Got a whole working machine you can have for a ton:thumbup:
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If the clutch was slipping, the revs would increase and the cha[n would stall in the cut. This simply sounds like you are using a saw that hasnt enough power or it is down on compression. If you are using a ms181 or similar, they will struggle in anything bar 1-8inch cuts!
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Gotta love neighbours havent you and great to see the geezer from the council had time to leave his job and come round to survey your work. The world would be great without the people in it:lol:
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Sounds like the saw is probably loading up with fuel when it is flat out and it is dropping the revs when you snap the throttle closed. Try leaning down the L screw a little, it may help but really, my first step would be to ensure the carb is tuned properly.
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Trt turning the saw upside down with the plug out, it is possible the crankcase is full of fuel due to a leaking needle in the carb!
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Try just switching to it and see how it goes. It is common that you get shrinkage in rubber parts and these can cause slight leaks around fuel lines - relatively easy to fix. Carb parts may need replacing in time but again - relatively easy to do as it is really just the diaphragm that may cause an issue. The only other issue I have had on some older saws is that the resins left in and on the lining of the fuel tank seem to cause running issues but are generally sorted by stripping the carb and cleaning it and then all is good. See how you get on, as Barrie says - we are there to help and assist - a good and free online resource for Arbtalkers:thumbup:
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Brick and mortar cleaner - around 15% HCL does the job:thumbup:
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And take a swig on a tough day
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Not 100% sure but they are held in either by a screw on the inside of the cover that screws in to the base of the air box or they are held in with two clips on the rear of the switch - these would need easing inwards from the rear of the switch. The screw mounting method actually screws one of the switch terminals to the base thus earthing it!
