spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Ah Stubby, you have learnt well:lol:
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Happy Christmas:thumbup:
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Rich, the part you need is - 1121 160 5400 Sometimes on online sites, if you get the part number slightly wrong, it comes up with a similar part - been there before with a fuel line
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Depends on the colour of your coil, mine was the unlimited black one and just upped the revs to 13,500 and it worked fine - the important thing to ensure is that you get a little fourstroking on the top end and the colour of the plug is tan.
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Some use strong alkalie - Sodium Hydroxide etc, some use HCL (Muriatic) acid - brick cleaner does work well - if it fizzes, it is oxidising the aluminium. Eventually with a bit of abrasive paper and re-applying acid, all the transfer will go and the oxide can be removed with some semi course grit paper and finished with a finer 400 grit. I have done some with around 0.3mm of aluminium bonded to the cylinder - the newer the cylinder, the better it will probably work. The area above the ceiling of the exhaust port is the critical compression area - the cylinder should be left where you can't feel any damage with your fingertip.
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Personally I use acid to remove heavy transfer - light stuff can be removed with abrasive paper, you then do a light hone with abrasive paper or use a hone but very lightly.
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Personally I would try to rework the cylinder, I have had some pretty bad examples on my "Whats on my Bench" thread that have cleaned up and are giving good service. I have even had some cylinders that didn't look good but still made high compression. The Meteor pistons are the best and Danikrop on ebay from Greece is a top guy - ordered a piston on Thursday midday and it arrived Tuesday - now that is better than many UK sellers - I have ordered around 30-40 pistons off the guy and always around a week or under:thumbup: The guy called MaxMoto from Latvia is also reliable! The weak point in the Chinese pistons are the piston rings and circlips:thumbdown:
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I was thinking male chicken:lol: It is probably a thrust washer so very thin!
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Looks like I did a good job then, got a mini typhoon coming out of it:001_rolleyes:
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Fully understand, it is flubbing ever so slightly every now and then and will use the plug colour to see if there is much left, may get another 500rpm out of it:thumbup:
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The Welch plug covers the low speed jets and won't cause flooding, it is more likely to be a leaking needle valve, bad high speed check valve, incorrectly sited needle valve spring, incorrect diaphragm fitted or incorrect metering arm height......just IMO:blushing:
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Did it have new crank bearings?
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Picked up three blowers recently, two runners....well sort of. Decided to strip one to make a runner and whilst apart, gave it a port and muffler mod. The muffler mod was just running a 10mm drill up the outlet pipe, the porting was widening the inlet and outlet ports. Not sure what these blowers are supposed to pull at the top end (BG85) but I am getting fourstroking at 9,200rpm
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All I can suggest is to find out why it is binding - is the seal sitting proud of it's seat? Is there anything missing like the big round spacer/washer that sometimes sits behind the clutch?
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Mmmm - Martin told me about your latest batch of dodgy kit - need a challenge for after the turkey and a couple of bottles of claret:blushing: -
From your description - it will be worth removing your chain brake cover and making sure it hasn't overheated etc, the smoke may have been caused by the thing overheating - worth looking at.
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Tickets purchased here - Hope to win the fifty shades of grey - something to read whilst waiting for the next box to arrive with a buggerd chainsaw in it:001_rolleyes: Well done Steve - always a good take up and a worthy cause:thumbup:
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About the same, depends how troublesome the carb is!
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Have used them a couple of times, they ship from the IOM so it takes a tad longer but has always arrived...good prices though:thumbup:
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Try a bit of the other halfs nail varnish on it after it has been set - that should hold it in place:thumbup:
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Try closing the gap up between the coil and the flywheel, just make sure it doesn't touch the flywheel. Also try disconnecting the blue wire off the coil and see if the spark comes back.
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Standard exhausts are limited to 114db SPL, this makes them restrictive and stops the full potential of the engine being used. A muffler mod basically consists ofopening up the exhaust outlet and/or drilling/removing the internal baffle plate. Many people have different ways of muffler modding, I usually find a length of suitable steel tube, cut a 1" length off it, open a hole up in the front of the muffler, insert the tube and braze it in place - this at least doubles the outlet cross sectional area - 80% is the figure banded around but in reality, you need the outlet to be free flowing but not stupidly loud. The internal baffles, if fitted, are generally drilled to allow the exhaust to pass through the muffler in a straight line. There are pictures on my "Whats on your bench thread" of many that I have done - you can just cut a big hole in the muffler but personally like the thing to have some engineering and crafting in its design:thumbup:
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The carb cleaner additive I use contains glycol, same stuff as in anti freeze you mix it 10:1 with DI water.
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I use a specific carb cleaner supplied by Allendale - does the job for me. The trick is having a cleaner with heat and decent US output:thumbup:
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You may well get his with import duty when it goes through customs - factor that in when it arrives - thats 20% VAT and handling charges!
