spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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In real terms, it is giving too little fuel at low revs, this is the prime cause of that early to mid range bogging before the high speed circuit kicks in. I know what you do to a carb to get rid of it but no idea on an autotune:confused1:
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Usually the rubber hoses that fit either side of the oil pump need replacing or a bit of a fiddle. If it is leaking without a bar on it, stick one on it and see if it stops - the tighened bar effects a clamping action on the pump:thumbup:
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Thats because the purchase tax has been paid out of the EU, you will be liable for 20% VAT and possibly a £10 handling fee - its normal:thumbdown:
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Was that you or the bike? Do they do a flabby rear end version for old-timers:lol:
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You can't beat the feeling when a non runner fires again and runs up nice:thumbup:
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In the owners defence, it was a problem whilst climbing and having started it on the ground - it was a bad kicker but not as bad as a 298XP. It is funny, I usually like a little kick once in a while, shows the saw is close to maximum advance:thumbup:
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I know this is an old thread but to draw a conclusion to the issue of an MS660 kicking back and snapping the starter out of your fingers....painfully:blushing: I had the same model in with exactly the same fault, I found that the flywheel to ignition module gap was pretty close which would have advanced the ignition slightly. I re-gapped the parts with a typical business card and it has cured the issue - this would have retarded the ignition by a degree or so and there is no sign of this painful phenomena. I will let you go back to what my suggestion was earlier in the thread:thumbup1: I know heat can affect the ignition module which is why the issue changes after the saw has been run - I draw this from a MS460 I had starting issues with - fine when cold, no spark when hot - the route cause was the flywheel ignition module gap was too large!
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Is that the operator or the saw:lol: The saws are semi pro and the biggest drawback with them is that stripping them down is a bit of a mare down to their clam style engine and cumbersome handle/airbox design. They are OK saws, not great but reasonable for semi heavy use. Probably best on an 18-20" bar. The hot smell may just be the oil or lubricant the service engineer has used. Try 10 mins hard cutting with it and see if the clutch/exhaust/top cover is smoking at all.
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Honda CB100, very reliable and boring but a good machine, never was in to two strokes in those days.......if you can believe that!
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Probably about my age, I had a 400/4 Honda with a few tricks on the engine! Those RD'S were a little crazy then they hit the YPVS on them and a 21hp 125cc bike when everyone else had 12hp, great days! The RG500 and RD500 were pretty special,not seen one for years! Perhaps we should start the Arbtalk old farts club,think Stubby will be up for it:thumbup:
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Yes, The GT380 is a three cylinder Suzuki, air cooled triple, bit of a collectors item now, they did a number of triple in different types as did Kawasaki - look up Mach3 750:blushing: The closest Yamaha was the RD400 twin!
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They are good guys, generally respond to mails in under 4 hours and will send a paypal request and ship on receipt of funds - always been very helpful plus their full kits are far cheaper than the OEM re-packed ones!
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Take the top cover off and manually press the throttle closed and see if the saw still races - the holding on to revs is a classic sign of an airleak - even correct colour on the plug isn't always a telling sign. The saw is renowned to be difficult to pull over - not as bad as a 298XP though:blushing:
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All the oil is driven out, the chain gets hot and you get a resinous build up that makes the chain tight and generally a bit rusty looking. The chain goes very slack once the oil flows again....trust me!
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Try this IPL - 272 - 268 - XP Planche éclatée, IPL
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The carb will have a number on its side, go by this - it should match one of the numbers I have given you. If it doesn't match then you will need a replacement carb or take a chance and see if it will work - most Tillosons I have worked on have had a long needle - perhaps 15mm long. Good luck
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Pull the sprocket off, take the clutch off (spin it off clockwise), remove the oil pump, pul out the oil pickup and make sure the pickup pipe and filter are clear, make sure the oilways in the oil pump are clear - carb cleaner or WD40 is good for this. Check the pinion worm drive is in good condition and the arm isn't damaged or loose on the pinion. Reassemble and it should be OK You could try flushing the tank with fuel before doing all that but it may not be effective.
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Ask Hugo at Rowena Motors - they are main dealers for Tilloson, Zama and Walbro - always very helpful and also very good value:thumbup:
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That's got to be one of the strangest requests:confused1: If you have a saw that needs a new needle in the carb, it is a Tillotson carb Tillotson HS-134A, 234A, B, 260 series - http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20268.pdf If you want spares - Rowena Motors - don't let the website put you off, they are top guys and you can purchase by mail and paypal request.
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Sv150 engine very hard to turn over with recoil
spudulike replied to mikerecike's topic in Maintenance help
Firstly bear in mind I know cock all about these type of mowers. Having saying that, I did have one that had a shattered bearing on the disk that carried the blade meaning the blade was engaged all the time. As Rich says - try spinning the blade and see if it is permanently engaged to the engine. If the thing is self propelled then it may be that the lever that disengages the rear wheel drive has got damaged and drive is on all the time. That's me out of suggestions - I do old cylinder mowers - much more genteel:lol: -
This is it in action - excuse the shorts:lol: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPEPuEftDiM]Ported Husqvarna 357XP and 254XP cutting Poplar - YouTube[/ame]
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Thats ultrasonics and/or heat!!
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It really has to be the whole powerhead as you need to tune the carb and make sure the fuel sytem etc is set up to deliver the fuel needed!
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You will pay import duty on purchases from Australia, best get it from the EU. These budget cleaners all come from the same factory - Bejing Ultrasonics, my first one expired and am currently trying to fix it but purchased another as I use it all the time. The digital ones are OK although I was told that the mechanical ones are simpler and more reliable.
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I have a 3 litre 120w with 100w heating - mechanical timer, simple and effective. The fluid was from Allenvale and is specialised carb cleaner.
