spudulike

Can someone kick me if I ever mention doing someone a favour and selling a homeowner saw for a friend:001_rolleyes: Took a saw from a guy at work who asked me to sell it, fixed the carb and oiler issue it had:001_rolleyes: did a CD with the IPL, operating instructions, PDF on how to sharpen a chain and general saw use for the new owner. Told him how to start and run it etc. Had a call tonight, it took him half an hour to cut a bit of wood:confused1: and it is overheating:wtf: He wants his money back and now I am stuck right in the middle of a sale I made squat out of - I reckon the guy has fooked the chain on the first cut and that is why it isn't cutting and......it is my fault:001_rolleyes: I think I will stick to the pro kit where customers respect your knowledge and work rather than the general public who think you are a con merchant - not a happy bunny tonight Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Glad you are happy with them Dave, always a pleasure:thumbup: Love those 372XPs and they were good to work on!

Cheers Barrie - we will leave the other thread for repairs and refurb - thought is was the right time and makes sense IMO.

Aw...for you Andy...of course it will:thumbup:

Well, the one I have is an old red eye that blew its ignition module - I need to re-key the flywheel but apart from that, the ports will be opened up and the blowdown altered. A local guy I know has a lathe so a pop up piston and turned down cylinder should up the compression to nearer 200psi, I am currently cleaning and re-spraying it as it is ratty but mechaincally good. I will be doing this as time allows:thumbup:

Two simple things to check, flywheel to ignition coil gap and also the gauze filter in the carb - try those two things:thumbup:

Well, here it is at long last. Some of the guys on my other "Whats on your Bench" thread aren't in to porting so thought I should split out this type of chainsaw modification for those with similar interests. Personally, I got fed up with just repairs and did a blokes "I wonder what would happen if....":001_rolleyes: I purchased three 346XPs, two were for resale and the third......got ported and I never looked back - the results of the porting sounded and felt great so the porting bug stuck. Currently I am working on an old 066 that will be a real beast once done but that will appear soon. Today it has been MS441 tuning, the ring end runs down the side of the exhaust port messing up any chance of widening it unless you want a lop sided port and uneven blowdown:thumbdown: The saw is a strato so left the porting and recommended just a simple muffler mod - I had two diameter pipes I could have used, a simple hole would have a similar effect but like to make the finished job look good so chose the smaller of the two. Good thing I did as it is suitably loud. I also openend up the existing hole. Pickup is faster now and am happy with the look:thumbup: So Gents, a start of what will hopefully be another great thread:thumbup:

It is indeed a spark plug gauge, the edge has a variable thickness so you push the plug in to it and slide it around to where it stops and then open the gap or knock it close depending if it is too large or small. It also has a gap opener which again works:thumbup:

Man by the name of Goaty dropped this by - anyone want to guess what it is for as I had never seen one before - he found it in New Zealand. Surprisingly, it actually works very well:thumbup:

Mmm, a friend in need is.............a pain in the arse:lol: I am sure you will be asking many questions in the future:001_rolleyes:

Also had an MS250 in, it would fire and run for seconds with loads of smoke, I suspected fuel contamination with diesel so changed the fuel. It then wouldnt start and on turning the saw over on it's side would piss out fuel from the air filter manifold. :thumbup:Stuck needle valve I thought so stripped the carb and yup, spot on , so cleaned the needle, resited the needle and metering arm and after a bit of messing around, it fired and ran:thumbup:

Got two MS460s in, the first was one I had in before and expired in a big black bang - I knew the cylinder plug hole had an insert in it and it sounded like that had gone or the decomp valve had gone as it had zero compression. It was good news, the plug had simply unscrewed and poped out, The insert on my previous encounter had come loose so had sealed it back in with Loctite 270 and this was still solid:thumbup: A new plug and all is good. The other MS460 would fire but not run. Stripped the carb and found the below:001_rolleyes:

Just remember that it isn't just about tools, kit etc, you also need an insight in to what all the engine components do and how a stroker works - I guess if you have had motorbikes you will have some knowledge of engines and the rest you will learn:thumbup:

Not really, you are just lowering the pop off pressure that is needed to open the needle valve thus making sure the correct level of fuel is metered in to the carb. Most small carbs have very high pop off pressure and have noticed many larger ones and ld school carbs pop off much earlier! I test carbs this way but havent experimented with it as to date, I havent needed to. The Yanks tend to be quite resourceful in their approach!

Re - the decomp, it is probably worth popping in a new one as it may be coming out too soon and causing the compression of the engine to kick - worth trying as well. You will need a long reach socket to do so - I forget the size:blushing:

Someone will be along soon to tell you to put this on Arbtrader...just saying:thumbup:

I have one of those pullers and it makes life easier but I got it for half the retail price:thumbup: Other than that, the screw method of extracting or even using a pointed awl on MS200Ts works well! Who is going to do your work Dave, sounds lile a little palace you are building for them:biggrin: A selection of t bars, t wrenches, long reach sockets, T27 bits, M6, M5 allen is a must. Helicoil sets in M4, M5,M6 and a damn good set of tap and dies is a godsend, you already have the US cleaner in the bag, a decent bench vice, long nose pliers, side cuters, soldering kit, a fecking big G clamp is like gold dust......we all know why:thumbup: Other than that, mallets, files, diamond files and blocks, a decent selection of containers for parts, screw drivers etc The list goes on forever. TBH, if you are just doing your own kit, you probably don't need half of this kit, if you are going to run your own money making workshop, employing someone then you will. Good luck, any questions, just ask

The smoke will either be from too much oil or the saw running too rich. If after you have sorted the oil, it still smokes, look at the spark plug and see what colour the electrodes are! Most saws smoke from stone cold, it is just the oil not burning off but will clear when the saw gets warm!

It could be worth trying if you have a pop off pressure gauge and a couple of spare springs - If you bugger up the spring then just fit the standard one again.

As Barrie, my twin, says YES. If you are used to running 346XPs, 345/350 Huskys, you will know the feeling when they are stone cold, they bog on whacking the throttle open until there is a little warmth in the engine. In this case,it is normal!

What GK said, the only thing to add is that the MS660 has a slightly different way of mounting the flywheel magnet and it isn't always obvious where it actually is. If you rotate the flywheel slowly, you will see the gap between the flywheel and coil, decrease a lot in one small 5cm area and this is where the gap needs setting. On more conventional flywheels, you will see a big block of ally both sides of the flywheel, the one with two semi polished steel type inserts in it is the magnetic one where the gap needs setting. Just make sure the flywheel spins unhindered after the gap has been set!

The normal fix/adjustment is to open up the L screw by circa 1/8 - 1/4 turn. That should generlly fix it if it isn't a fuel system issue.