spudulike

Thats right - we will use up all the retirement funds the government have leaving you with..............not too much:thumbup:

Just a follow up on the saw - it is in fact an X-torque 372 so has the Strato style piston. The cylinder is now clear of transfer and clean. Gardenkit has been a gent and has got me a piston on order - thanks bud. Just have to fit it when it comes in and do the checks and setup to make sure it doesn't go pop again. It has been a bugger not being the typical 372xp as the parts are far less common but have a solution in place and saved heaps of repair cost!

Too old, bloody cheek! You will find your eyesight going from 40 onwards and will need glasses from 45-50 onwarads! Anyway, magnifyiing glass is great for inspecting smaller components however good your eyesight is!

I have a magnifying glass as part of my tool kit, would be list without it!

He's probably down the pub:001_rolleyes:

The tube is to strengthen it and ....it just makes it look finished and "right" rather than some hillbilly bodge. It will direct heat and gas where it can dissipate but I just liek to do a good finished job. Best way of making a hole - you can fit your trained mouse with titanium gnashers or simply use a drill of your choice:001_rolleyes:....sorry:001_tt2: Just use a drill, relieve the hole until the tube is a snug fit and then angle and braze or weld it.

Not done this saw but bost are accessed by removing the clutch drum and clutch then removing - need to look at it once off - most are pinned and have 1/4 - 1/2 turn adjustment but not sure about this one. Try this for help - http://www.orgtehprom.ru/files/images/PARTMINER/560.pdf Reckon Pin "17" has come out as it looks like the retaining pin.

I have been on the flight deck of a B52, cramped as hell and to get up in to the driving seat, you have to step up on a dam big compass that is used by the navigator.

Sorry Wes, it is one of those little facets of info I just know too much about - I can even tell you the degree difference between the key cut outs in the flywheel:001_rolleyes:

Value - I would expect £200 - 250

The aluminium should have been removed with acid or alkalie. If the saw has full power but bad pickup, it sounds like the carb is a little lean on the L screw or is it one with only one screw!

0.5mm is the lowest figure you would want to use - I either use liquid gasket if I can just remove the base gasket or a custom gasket made out of gasket paper to achieve near this figure. Pretty much the same for all models and all models are slightly different.

I thought you would have dropped some off Matty or are you saving a nice bit of Ash for me:001_rolleyes: Hope the saws are behaving - not seen you lately:laola:

Started work on an 064 that has rolled in with an oil leak and some porting work. Have measured the squish and is over 1mm - lots of potential there. The piston won't leave much for widening the ports so may have to just re-profile them. Timing figs were Exhaust Duration - 163 Transfer Duration - 119 Inlet Duration - 160 Blowdown - 22 I will take the exhaust port up a little and take the blowdown down to around 20 degees and see what that gives. Surprising the difference between the 066 and 064 figures.

Thought that last post would cause stunned silence:lol: Took the cylinder off and found the piston as expected - two big scallops out of each side of both skirts. These scallops are probably to reduce friction but they also halt any widening of ports so have ordered a Meteor one without the cut outs. The picture below shows the difference in skirts with the outline of the same port on the skirt showing the Meteor one has much more potential. The pic is from an 064 done some time ago.

Your method of cleaning off the transfer is harsh - cylinders don't like rubbing hard in one area as it will cause a cavity and cause leakage round the rings. You probably have low compression - this may cause loss of power, especially in the cut. Best measure it - 150psi is normal.

There is a PDF that Stihl did on this subject. The early 066 had a 13.5mm crank and an aluminium flywheel, the first ones had fixed ignition timing. This was hurting through kickback so Stihl fitted an auto retard on the coil making it much nicer. the coil number ending 1311 is the one that will work with the aluminium flywheel and has the variable ignition timing. The one starting 0000 has fixed timing and is found on many saws including the 026 etc. Stihl then fitted a 15.5mm crank and poly flywheel as the aluminium ones were twisting the end of the crank off:blushing: I believe the coil on these was the 1314 coil . I know about all this as my 066 redeye needs converting and all this is from memory - I am that sad:001_rolleyes: I thought all 064s had aluminium flywheels that were slightly less deep than the 066 ones - not disputing you Wes but thinking out loud - if anyone wants the relevant PDF about the flywheel/coil compatibility on 064/066 then PM me - it makes fascinating reading....anyone want to know about dual key flywheels!

It al depends on how decent and honest the seller is! You could open a case through ebay if you believe the saw was bad when you received it.

I put the degree wheel on my 066 after spraying up the crankcases. I am taking the port duratiion measurements of the cylinder before modification so here is what I have: - Exhaust duration - 173 degrees Transfer duration - 123 degrees Inlet duration - 160 degrees So, what are these figures? Basically they are the degrees the crank goes through when turned top of port to top of port when the crank is turned through BDC. What can they be used for - they give us an indication of when the ports open and close and more importantly, the duration of the ports and the blowdown on the engine. From these figures you can work out that you have 93.5 degrees of compression from the top of the exhaust port and TDC. You can work out that the blowdown figure is 25 degrees. Blowdown is where the power stroke compression is exhausted through the exhaust port, the pressure in the top of the cylinder drops to around 5psi and the transfers can push the exhaust out with a fresh charge of fuel. The shorter blowdown is, the more fuel can get pumped in to the cylinder, too short and the exhaust pressure will not have dissipated and exhasut will be blown in to the transfers. This is one area that will be adjusted and will aim for circa 20 degrees once complete. The plan is to now strip it down and turn a pop up and lower the cylinder base and then modify the ports to widen them and lower the blowdown figure. The exhaust port can be raised a few degrees to raise the powerband and the pop up will ensure the compression won't be compromised.

The 346XP is a very simple mod, I just take the arrestor screen out and bore out the hole by around double. The smaller diameter pipe is 16mm OD.

Two 910 Jonnies for someone that had an interest - 87cc old bangers - both run!

In fact....you can:thumbup:

They are called KeySert:thumbup:

There are many takes on this but the general consensus is that you open it up 70% of the area of the inside opening of the exhaust port. TBH, it isn't THAT critical and IMO, much depends on how loud you want it. I have two steel tube diameters - the smaller is used on sub 60cc saws, the larger on 60cc+ simple:thumbup: