spudulike

That was a big one, must have stressed the chipper:lol:

That's OK Ray, it's amazing what gems can come forth after too much vino and a BBQ:thumbup:

Check the fuel tank breather - the fuel expands with heat, if it is a one way affair, it will push fuel past the needle valve:thumbdown: - you could try leaving the fuel cap a little loose:thumbup:

Get some pics up, Coil???? is this the brake band or spring? Sounds like the side cover may have some distortion in it but can't tell from your description.

Its a two stroke - same as any saw really:lol: Take an expansion chamber andthe dremmel - you must be able to get a few extra HP out of it - stick a chair on it and let it rip:001_rolleyes:

I don't know but it was probably to cover an issue with quality at some stage in the history of Stihls product range - possibly the old 064/066 with the 13mm crank that kept twisting the flywheel off - thats why the MS660 has a nylon flywheel and a fatter crank! Mail Stihl UK and ask the question:thumbup:

You may have one of two things, something wrong with the fuel system causing the low speed fuel delivery to lean out a little or an air leak. To do a pressure check correctly you need to plug all the ports and holes in the engine and then pressurise the crankcase and see if the pressure drops over time and do this also whilst rotating the crank. You also need to do the same with Vacuum in the crankcase as seals can seal 100% in one direction but leak in the other. I use some home grown system based on a sealey brake bleader for vacuum and a gunson low gauge for pressure - it didn't cost much over £50 but is a little modified for the job. Doing what I do, being able to perform these checks hs resolved many issues and also flagged up some impending air leaks before they have caused severe damage. Any two stroke tech that doesn't understand why doing these checks is important, doesn't know his craft IMO! So, your saw - you could plug all the holes, put some sort of adaptor on the spark plug hole and then inflate a baloon and use this to presurise the case and use soapy water around the crank seals and manifold to check for leaks - it may work for you. If any seal will leak, 95% of the time it will be the clutch side one - you couldjust replace it and see if it resolves your issue:thumbup: Buying the bit of kit is half the issue, plugging all the ports is the other, a friendly shop should do the job for an hours labour if you catch them at a good time but take it with the clutch, exhaist and carb off to save them the hassle but take the parts with you:thumbup: Good luck

The usual weak points are piston to cylinder fit, circlips and brittle piston rings, it will be one of these if it fails!

The hole should be of no consequence, I did check an OEM 026 I have in the workshop and it doesn't have the hole but TBH, it is of no importance, it just leaves a small bit of the top cooling fin unsupported. I wish this was the only thing giving me worries:001_rolleyes: You pay £60 for a piston kit rather than £230 and this is what you get!

Saw troll listed the usual suspects,fuel, air leak or carb setting/fuel delivery. Any saw tech who is any good will check these things on reassembly and correct as necessary. The saw d also be tach tuned 500-1krpm below max revs.

If it was running a little lean, it may have pushed it over the edge but it is very difficult to tell. I always pressure and vacuum check all seized saws to verify the integrity of the crank seals, inlet manifold and impulse line etc and then check the fuel lines, decomp and tank breather then do a tach tune to ensure the maximum revs are correct - lots of work but well worth it if you want a reliable saw.

I think Rover may have said too much:lol: Stubby has it spot on, P&Cs fail for a reason, air leaks, old fuel and lean carb settings are the common culprits. If you do fit new components then the cause for failure needs to be corrected or the new parts will fail again. Personally I always try to salvage the cylinder as the OEM part is manufactured with tighter tolerances than the aftermarket kit and have around 95% success rate of doing this with zero failures on I guess 60+ machines. I have used one Hyway kit and found build to be OK but the piston to cylinder fit was looser than OEM and that is one of the key reasons I like to fit Meteor pistons on OEM cylinders - for the premium compression! Tesgol is one of the best sellers I have known on eBay and will actually resolve issues if they arise!

It just directs the air over the engine! ....and holds lots of crud!

Hope you cleaned inside that chain brake, it clicks nicely when you do......most don't

Had to clean the workshop floor after cleaning it, half a can of brake cleaner used on it and the compressor:001_rolleyes: Had a run of them lately - fed up with oily woodchip in my hair:thumbdown:

Today I have been cleaning manky saws, a MS200T that looks past its sell by date and a 357XP that has around 4mm of crud on all its surfaces - if this carries on I am going to start a name and shame thread:sneaky2: Not sure a little saw cleaning is top of many owners list of jobs:001_rolleyes: Grrrrrrrrrr:thumbdown:

Local surgeries can be a bit sniffy about having to register, we have had good experiences in Norfolk when the wife had a serious chest infecton and a useless response down in the West country when I was suffering. I am guessing that the local Doctors didn't know the extent of the damags to his arm and yes - that chain is mega lose and have seen the same on a few saws of weekend wariours and gardners - I always give a ten minute lesson when I see this along with pointing out what happens when a chain comes off:thumbup:

It is possible, the pressure will push fuel toward the carb and if enough, will open the needle valve. You could try leavig the fuel cap slightly loose or leaving the tank empty in hot weather.

Unusual then, I normally rub the port edges down when fitting new pistons just to make sure, not lost one to date so must be doing something right!

The tank vents often let air in but not out so if the fuel tank gets hot, the fuel expands and it forces itself past the needle valve and floods the engine - got a call on a past rebuild with similar symptoms, 10 mins on the phone and all was good:thumbup:

:lol:

Sounds like pretty much what I said - glad you are getting there:thumbup:

I used a fatter one but the problem appears to be around the impulse connector on older manifolds!

This is all a bit weird - not worked on an 08 Stihl but, without the bar and chain on, start the saw and then apply the chain brake (assuming it is the model with one) and see if the engine stalls. My thinking is one of the spacers is in the wrong place or a non standard one is too thick and the drum is locked on to the crank somehow! What happens if the chain is left pretty loose, does it help? Double check how the assembly is put together against the IPL to ensure it is correct!

I have had two right b?st$ds of saws in near history, one was an ex British Alcan MS650 with nothing on it serviceable and then this 365 Husqvarna! So far I have fitted new chain catcher, air injection Jet, kill wire and chain brake spacer. got it back together and the idle was crap and then it didn't start - the compression had dropped by 20psi to 130 and reckon the saw had old fuel oil lining the cylinder that had made a good seal and running it had then burnt it off killig the compression. New piston, compression 160psi (no base gasket:sneaky2:) Still crap idle and a further strip of the carb showed a leaking welsh plug so re-sealed it and it seemed better - just tached it and bingo - everything is now OK at long last:thumbup: This one just kept giving....................me head pain but glad it is done now:001_rolleyes: The owner said he wants it to pull a 20" bar, not surprised it wouldn't before but the hike in compression will help it do it:thumbup: