Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

spudulike

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    15,045
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by spudulike

  1. What is it singing? Something festive or something child like...Disney or similar?
  2. Chrome here! Not my drink of the night but my browser!
  3. A swearing fecking Unicorn unless I am mistaken and ask the wife.....I am always right!!!!!!
  4. And whats this, Scotch bloody mist: -
  5. Fecking hell
  6. I think the OP may be on drugs judging by the swearing unicorn!! Not sure I understand it....probably my age!
  7. I reckon that the spring will be the issue. Fitting it can be an interesting experience. A bench vice and assembling the bottom half before putting it in to the vice helps. Mole grips usually come in to getting the spring back in to position. Make sure that the spring isn't bent or damaged when fitting, the first one is usually an experience. Once the spring is in the bottom half and in a vice, push the spring in to the top clutch shoe, clamp it with the mole grips and then I usually lift the shoe with a screw driver whilst forcing the spring in to the shoe with plumbers grips. I am sure ADW has a factory tool for the job, bless him but us mere mortals use hammers😉.......and take the ridicule and abuse!! I am thinking the spring is pretty shot and is allowing the clutch to be always engaged thus the stalling when the brake is applied. The most obvious is usually the route cause.
  8. Yup, good workout, who needs a gym!! Good when it starts though.
  9. It bloody well kills me starting it, no wonder they put a valve in the carb you remove to prime it! It is a big ol lump by anyones standards!
  10. Well it isn't one of those ones from B&Q😉 Yup, the 80cc one and is curiously difficult to pull over now! It was just a plate of aluminium about 1.5mm thick.
  11. It sort of makes you wonder what the thought process was? Perhaps some experience of other equipment?? The Yanks call them jugs for a reason! Just means something else this side of the pond.
  12. There is on my McCulloch.......or there was before I removed it!!
  13. The part code is -503 28 90-10 and in stock. I would normally change the complete piston as wear on the piston itself can have quite an effect on the compression but it does look like the ring is excessively worn so may be worth a punt. Piston Ring for Husqvarna 242, 246, 340, 345 Chainsaws - 503 28 90 05 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Piston Ring Genuine Husqvarna Part OEM No. 503 28 90 05 Suitable for the Following Application's: 242, 246, 340, 345, 356XP, 350, 40, 42, 45, 49, 240, 245, 245R, 245RX, 345R
  14. TBH I wasn't sure if you were saying the plug could come loose or the insulator may blow out or something else. The guy fixed it, that is the main thing and it didn't cost him anything. I had a saw sent in once with the exact same fault. In my case it took me about 30 seconds to find the fault hence what I said! We still love you😉
  15. My experience is measuring at the base of the bore and never seen 40 thou on any machine. That is massively worn!!! 7-15 is fairly typical with 20 on a well used old machine being normal! The cheapest fix would be to get a decent quality piston...OEM, Meteor, Hyway, Episan and fit that making sure it is set to rev as a 350 would be. Check the plating is still good on the bore and lightly hone to accept the new piston.
  16. Like most of these things, info on the workings of the saw will probably be kept back by the manufacturer until they want to divulge them. Only those close to the company will be in the know but am sure it will be interesting!
  17. It does sound like the clutch drum is catching the clutch so a bad needle bearing or a weak clutch spring could be the issue. If you set the idle to something that sounds about right (technical talk for 2800rpm), If the chain creeps, does putting the chain brake on stop the chain but the saw continues to idle OK or does it stall? Don't do this for any length of time as the drum may get hot. My bet would be a weak clutch spring or it may have been stretched/damaged if removed before.
  18. Sorry, I was talking ring end gap clearance and not piston to bore. I have seen some piston skirts shattered down to excessive piston slap through wear. The MS260 was one culprit!
  19. 5 thou is very good, 7 -15 thou typical, 20 is getting knackered. Obviously a single ring is more prone to compression loss than a double.
  20. Take the ring off and pop it in to the bore, push it up square in to the bore with the piston 1" up and measure the ring gap with feeler gauges - that will tell you if the ring is worn. Push the piston up in to the bore so the bottom of the skirt is flush with the cylinder bottom and see if there is much rock front to back on the bottom of the piston - a little bit subjective but it works for me!
  21. Open port transfers on that top end - you can see it in the first pic. Not a 353 unfortunately!
  22. The 346 came in two variants, 45cc and 50cc. The earlier with a 42mm piston, the latter with a weird sized 44.3mm. The cylinders were always closed transfer ports. The 350 has open transfers - these will be two channels running up either side of the bore and a 44mm piston. It looks like you may have had a previous owner who got hold of one of these top ends and slapped it on. I have converted a few 45cc to 50cc 346XPs and these have worked out well with no issues. Bit of a strange one and the 350 will not rev anywhere near as high as the 346!
  23. In most cases, after checking the bar oiler hole is clear, it is easier to spin the clutch and drum off, pull the oil pump and pickup pipe off the machine, check the pipe and filter is clear, check the worm drive/pinion for damage to the worm thread and then check the oil pump inlet and outlet holes are clear. Usually a squirt of WD40/carb cleaner and a blast from a compressor will clear any blockage but sometimes you need to work any slug of fine wood chip out with a sewing pin. If this doesn't do it, it may be the oil tank breather but is much less likely. The issue with these Chinese saws is that they use cheap materials and poor design. The above on a mainstream saw may take 15-30 mins, some cheap Chinese saws need to have the engine removed to get to the pump. Good luck.
  24. I was thinking of a local plumber, loved doing the jobs, never knew who he had worked for, how long it had taken, what materials were used and who had paid. Being good and having a skill is just one part of it....a big part but the rest makes it a viable business.
  25. That last bit is good advice. Many guys are good at a job but rubbish at business. They do the job and them another and another but there is no process to start invoicing and chasing payments. A sale isn't a sale without payment in full!! Many hate the paperwork, I don't care for it but I understand the need to keep the whole business process in order.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.