doobin

Multimeter. Or take it off the machine, sticky tape it to a light bulb and switch it on (do that in the right order, and not on a metal workbench...)

Almost, but not quite. I went from 13 and a half stone to twelve and a half by going keto. Couldn't give up the mature cheddar, but there's not much lactose in that at all anyway. Eating natural is now the only way. If I eat some ice cream in the evening (usually when drunk, that's when I get a craving ) I have a sugar hangover in the morning. If I eat aspartamine (even chewing a pack of gum) I get terrible gas and the shits. The first two months were hard. Now, having stable blood sugar at all times is amazing. I genuinely crave leafy greens. I can taste sugars in brocoli. It's been life changing. The main thing with both Paleo and Keto is giving up the grains. Mankind didn't evolve to eat grains- the agricultural revolution of 10,000 years ago is only seconds on the evolutionary scale Keep it up Steve.

Have you anything you could adapt? Link box, tractor bucket? It literally just needs two bits of angle iron welded on at 45° to make a blade hooking point. Then it can go on either machine.

What's a screen with tiles?

IPA is a type of beer, not a company. Many breweries brew an IPA.

I doubt it will be anywhere near strong enough especially where it hooks over the frame. Need a metal skeleton of some sort I would say.

I'm not sure whether you'd be better with a little bit of weight to add traction? I'd also not be too keen on dragging it about with the boom- it would get annoying and would put a lot of wear on the boom as it would be hard for the whole setup to adjust to every little bump in the terrain as a hitch system would. That's about right! I was certainly expecting too much of my setup (terrain was awful, I had studs in the tracks and eveything) and I've since bought that little tracked dumper which is amazing. However, I still have the hitch arrangement and have on multiple occasions restrained myself from welding it to something else, as I know it will come in handy one day. Another idea Stephen, if it's just for buckets- I welded a couple of bits of angle iron onto an old tractor linkbox- now this can be picked up with the blade. Works really well. I also did the same to the pallet forks from my tractor. As I keep my buckets in a forklift crate this works great on site. Same cautions apply regarding overloading the track motors though- I don't know what's a safe limit.

There's a thread on here, search 'small scale timber extraction' In my experience, the digger will struggle. The load needs to be above the driven tracks/wheels to be effective. If you transfer too much weight to the blade to try to increase traction you will also be doing the track hubs no favours. In perfect conditions, OK. But it's never perfect ay? Think of all the times you're dragging something and loose traction, then have to anchor the blade and pull it towards you with the arm to overcome a bit of resistance before tracking again. That will the case also with the trailer. The hydraulic winch works well, I had a similar setup on my machine. Ditched it for a capstan in the end as couldn't anchor enough for a big pull with a small digger and too slow/short for smaller stuff!

That's a fair point, the increase in land value should make up for the drop in value from harvesting the trees if you get it right. An acre ready for clearfell will make much more than an acre of five year old trees.

Log suppliers are not generally known for getting on with the competition. Wood is expensive to move, so it stands to reason that people would have to be localish. Conflicts of interest etc. Some will be better at selling than others. Timber costs what it costs- there is a market value to it. I don't see that you would be saving money by owning the wood- making money, yes, when you sell the timber or log it and sell.

I reckon it might. I've used a mobile no worries inside a container before, container roofs are actually very thin.

Having used a basic GSM alarm system for three years with success, I've just purchased a system from these guys: Home Security Systems | Bullnet Systems® Total cost under £250 including 4 door sensors, 4 PIRS, a beam sensor and smoke alarm, plus a couple of vibration sensors. Indoor and outdoor wireless sirens also. I'm impressed. The instructions are Chinglish, and the sensor quality isn't the best but they all work and are very cheap. I shall be buying more, It's easy to set up once you've got your head around how it works- no wires, just pair the sensors with the unit and position them where you want them. I had it set up in under three hours- most of that time was spent working out the instructions! I even fixed one PIR covering the front gate and set it to 'doorbell'- now I get a 'bing bong!' whenever someone drives in. The sensor range was much better than I expected, it reaches fifty yards through a sleeper wall and then four feet of brick walls! It texts me to tell me which sensor has been triggered, and I will also connect it up to the landline when I get it installed. If you get a GSM-only one you can even use it as a yard phone. I am in a very poor signal area, it says no signal much of the time but manages to connect. I keep saying this- don't spend £250 on CCTV to capture grainy images of scum nicking your chipper, spend the money on something that will alert you to their presence. If anyone here is a registered alarm fitter, they are offering buy 5, get 5 free! ArbTalk collective perhaps?

Too right! He stitched my 15 year old self up with a McCulloch Double Eagle50- 'new old stock'. Yeah, twenty years old! **** saws, but I didn't know any better and it was cheap. Pete's a top chap, put me in touch with the bloke I bought my tractor from and gave me lots of genuine history on it. Shame I no longer live so near.

It handles 8" surprisingly well. Only straight processor timber mind!

That chipper is pretty rubbish but will do your job OK. It struggles to feed brashy stuff (only one top feed roller scrabbling against a mirror smoth floor...) but will be fine for straight stuff like hazel. Produces a nice sample on straight logs 2-6" but that's a waste of good wood. Quality rubbish but very simple and an orang-outang with a stick welder could fix it up (how do you think it was made?? ) But... I don't reckon you'll see your money back on your investment and the extra time/diesel taken to chip and transport vs. burning. If you need chip for your paths then someone one here will be able to drop you a load at the time you need it, rather than messing around with a mule and ton bags and storing it (how will you lift them??) If you want to use the smaller wood and see a return on it, then get one of those processors that shear it into small logs. Someone will remind me what they're called, I can't remember. If you must buy that Chinese chipper, then I'd wait until one comes up secondhand at half the price.

Then lend the OP the money to do so, interest free...

You get more bang for your buck with older trucks than you do with older arb gear, due to the higher prevalence and less specialized nature of older vehicles. Simples. If you had to run either a 2k LDV and a brand new chipper, or a brand new Transit and a 2k chipper, what do you think would give the least hassle/most profit? Image aside.

Disagree. The truck only gets you from A to B. Gear that earns you money should be the priority to purchase new/on finance if possible.

Make sure your lad has his CS38! Sorry....

I'm a Stihl slut, but they got the 4 mix wrong. The kombi attachments are bombproof. Change the engine to an FS-70 2 mix (yes, I know you shouldn't have to!) and you can't go wrong. Either that or wait until they bring out a 2 mix combi unit. It will be the mutts, profitable and with much, much higher residual value than anything else on the market, for good reason.

You'll need to swap the shafts as the FS-70 is not a combi system, and has a flexible driveshaft which can snap if you jam the cutters.

Conversion won't be worth the money. You should be able to get an LDV tipper for your budget.

Is it a general warning light, or a dedicated FUEL filter light? Coming on under load up hills is much more likely to be the air filter, so I'd check that also as it might share a warning light.

LDV all the way.

It's a 50/50 opinion split mate. Half of us know they're crap, the other half are living in denial! Seriously, both my FS70s are running sweet and have plenty of power even for a telescopic shaft and polesaw. Are the KM-130 engines currently running? If so then just peel the FS-70 sticker off the new shaft, pop the old 130 engine on and sell it on ebay as an FS-130 with a brand new shaft (say the nipper ran it over or something). You will get £120 easily (an FS55 makes about that all day long), so maybe even £170 as an FS130 with a new shaft on it. A new FS-70 is only £260, result!