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Squaredy

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Everything posted by Squaredy

  1. I have just looked up Colourcoat Urban (now called Catnic urban) and as you say it is only intended for a slope of 5 degrees or more.
  2. All in one run is no problem, and I was thinking I would use a sealing strip; to seal where the sheets overlap, and indeed to probably overlap two or even three corrugations.
  3. I notice that in Australia there are special roofing sheets designed to cope with ultra low pitch roofs (as low as 1 degree in fact). Does anyone know of such a product available in the UK? I am wondering about the options for my garden room (that I am building), which is going to have a slope of just 2 degrees. I am aware that traditional wisdom is that this is too low for corrugated steel - but if the Australians can do it, why can't we? TRIMDEK® | Lysaght WWW.LYSAGHT.COM Rib-and-pan roofing and walling Ironically the company that make this Australian product is an offshoot of a firm that used to be based near me - at the Orb steelworks in Newport.
  4. Coastal redwood is a very fast drying timber, and very stable. It certainly won't move like oak or most UK hardwoods. But of course you will still have to expect some movement as it dries. Personally I think coastal redwoood is very beautiful - maybe a nice feature, or will it not be on show?
  5. Well, that is fairly near....compared to the Central African Republic...
  6. Marvellous trees. Near the coast?
  7. I also think Monterey pine. How big are those cones, that is an important clue.
  8. Are you planning on doing the install yourself and then getting the local authority to sign it off? Or do you not have confidence in your skills to do this? If you are going to get a professional to do it then they will advise you I guess?
  9. No, progress has been slow…shortly going to put down the concrete pad. All the timber is now cut and this beam is for the roof. I originally planned to use a truss but realised there was no height for this (to comply with permitted development rights), so I am having a flat roof with this beam supporting the purlins in the middle.
  10. We milled the largest beam in fourteen years of milling yesterday- 6 metres long and 300mm square. Lovely clean pippy oak from a dead straight log. This is for my own use, but what would you charge for this?
  11. Sad to say this area suffers from Phytophera in chestnut as well as Larch. No idea if this is the problem with your tree however but it is possible.
  12. When I used to be more up to date with such matters it was possible to choose the dictionary on MS Word. Under tools and options if I remember rightly. Set it to British English. I bet it is not so easy to control these days.
  13. I take my hat off to you managing to charge that sort of price. But do you tell them it is totally unseasoned?
  14. At the end of the day it is a learning curve for you and everyone who becomes freelance. Undoubtedly you will look back in a few years with a lot more confidence and knowledge about rates and see what you could have done differently, see times you could have negotiated better. But for now, like any new skill you will have to work it out, and accept that people and employers can be very cagy about rates. It is just the same in the world of PAYE - not many people are happy to discuss their pay openly.
  15. I may be out of date Andy, but a few years ago you could get hold of oak sleepers for about £17 (imported from France I believe). I suspect your pricing structure would result in a price nearer to £60 or £70.
  16. Not your fault not sure what was going on with phones. I really appreciate you getting me the ticket. Maybe too many people for a usually very quiet area that the local masts could not cope. It was a nice day though, and I also had some good chats about woody subjects. For anyone who is thinking of getting into milling it would have been great - all the main players were there (except Lucas and Peterson swing mills) and they mainly all had several mills set up to demo. I think Woodmizer for instance had at least four of their mills set up. I did wonder how much this beast from Meber cost.
  17. No. Yes you can use a thicknesser but it would need to be a very wide one. Most are only 18 inches or two feet wide. A good wide slab will often be wider than this.
  18. Cutting them again once dried will not be easy. When you use a sawmill to convert logs to timber you are milling usually a very wet log which makes it soft and easy. Once fully dried the timber is much much harder. It would also be very wasteful cutting to say 100mm and then cutting again to 60mm.
  19. This was pretty cool also.
  20. This was my pick of the chainsaw carving, I didn’t stay to see it finished and I didn’t get his name but wow.
  21. Just realised you are Matlock - not exactly local to me...
  22. The poplar is not as useful as the ash generally. BUT if you are in my neck of the woods and there is access for a timber lorry I would probably buy it from you for a decent price. I am South East Wales - anywhere near you?
  23. Of course it is quite easy to find out accurately. Get a bag full of logs you wish to weigh and then decant it into rubble sacks or similar. Use bathroom scales to weigh each rubble sack (holding the sack and weighing it and yourself to make it easier to read). Add them all together and Bob’s your uncle!
  24. Definitely worth getting a registered sweep to clean and check it. But use a carbon monoxide alarm in any upstairs room the chimney passes through. lining it is a good idea as has been said, but it might not be necessary. Impossible to tell from the photos - I assume the chimney is taller than the photos show?
  25. If you are near to existing trees and have time you could allow it to naturally turn to woodland. My garden would be a forest of field maple, ash, poplar holly, and yew if I left it for a few years. Or did you want control over the species?!

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