Squaredy

Ah I see. Certainly for 29 Poplar trees it might be worth looking for a buyer. You near me (South Wales)?

I sometimes get a small load from a local firewood guy - he fells as well and sometimes gets logs he doesn't really want for firewood. He has a tractor and timber trailer so he can deliver. That won't help you I know but have you made contact with your local firewood guys who might be in a similar position? Otherwise there are plenty of forestry firms out there but generally they want to sell you a full load.

So what is the going rate for logs like that going to biomass if you don't mind my asking?

Well to answer your question, the poplar I started this thread about and milled in 2018 went up for sale a year later and was all gone within a few months, so it went really well. Even the sample board I put a photo of on this thread sold eventually despite it only being a sample as it was simply such a nice board. I bought more pop from a local farmer a bit later and that is also all milled and some of it is waiting for me to use in a building I am putting up in my garden. As a timber it dries well, is pretty stable and straight grained, but does have a lot of movement as it changes moisture level. If you mill some and put it to dry properly it would be good for indoor projects where you do not need great hardness, and where the design allows for a little movement. I personally think the grain is really nice and would love to see it used as kitchen cupboard doors for example. From your point of view I think what you have to think about is how easy it will be to sell the timber - unless you are planning to use it all yourself. I can manage to sell most timbers as I have footfall and if I can get any timber in front of my customers it will sell. If you have to rely on advertising you may find it takes a very long time to sell, as people will want the better known timbers. I have just a few weeks ago bought a full lorry load of poplar from an Arbtalk member which I have started milling to standard thicknesses and this will be up for sale next year. I am a big fan of getting under-used timbers in front of customers as there are so many great timbers out there which get totally overlooked.

Yes I have used that type of kit for about ten years and always found them successful. No idea about whether it is legal but they certainly work. Also saves a lot of time as you can often do a repair in just a few minutes - without even taking the wheel of the vehicle sometimes.

Very nice indeed.

And of course my city (Newport), Cardiff, Swansea, Newcastle, Bristol and a few others. Still about a tenth of the German cities we attacked. Nearly as many Germans killed in Hamburg in one week as in the entire duration of the Blitz on UK cities. We must never forget the Blitz, but all too often we forget the other side of the coin. And we deliberately targeted civilians.

I also love the Lancaster - amazing aircraft. So sad that it was a weapon of what would now be called extensive war crimes. Can you imagine a thousand of them heading towards a single city on a single night each carrying around 5 tons of bombs? Bombing of Hamburg in World War II - Wikipedia EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG

Are you after a full lorry load?

Teak is possibly the best timber you could use for a garden table - highly durable and stable. BUT you must allow for movement of the timber - it will get baked in the sun (maybe for weeks at a time in a heat wave) and rained on and damp for weeks at a time. If you glue it up like an indoor dining table you will have problems. Either leave gaps, or look at the way teak decks are made for boats - they have gaps with a sealant and caulking material in between.

Milling lots of Sequoia at the moment (Coast Redwood not Giant). We should plant more of this - stunning grain and dries in no time and super stable and durable. I will be using a load myself soon so I will upload some pics as the build progresses in an appropriate thread.

Sometimes the old ways are the best!

Wow - stunning! We mill loads of Sycamore, but never had logs quite that dramatic! The colour does fade as it dries, but hopefully not too much.

Assuming you mean local timber then Oak, but no sapwood or knots (except tiny ones maybe). Sweet Chestnut equally durable but weaker - so may be fine depending on the unsupported length and thickness. Whatever timber you use avoid knots and sapwood. I agree Douglas Fir and Larch are OK, and Cypress if you can get hold of any - but not as durable as Oak/Chestnut. Or of course you could go for reclaimed timber like teak, Jarra etc, which would be super durable - trouble is identifying what timber you have - the average reclamation yard won't know.

Sounds like we all need to build open sided timber drying sheds to provide nesting sites for them. I certainly get a few nesting in mine most years.

I think you need a skilled mechanic to take a look at it. There are quite a few possible causes from a leaky fuel line to failed electronic ignition, or dirty carb muck in the fuel etc etc. The guy who did the tune up perhaps doesn't have the in depth mechanical understanding to get to the bottom of it by the sound of it. I'm not saying you won't get a clue from an internet forum, but there is no substitute for a skilled person spending an hour or two or four working on it.

Woodmizer LT15 classic wide. Only been in use since about January, but so far I like it very much. Manual loading and log turning, but we have a forklift so that is no problem.

I started using windscreen washer fluid years ago after seeing it used by a mobile miller I knew. I then wondered about the health effects of breathing in a fine mist of it over the years, so I looked into it. What I read about it put me off that one, and would be the same for diesel, paraffin etc. We just use plain water these days. I will say my new mill cuts far more accurately than my old mill, and this is down to blade tensioning and robustness of the build. My Norwood was always a challenge to get the blade sitting just right, whereas my Woodmizer is just so much better quality in every respect; it wants to cut straight. Even when the blade is past its best it tends not to wander. I will say an awful lot is also to do with how well the blades are sharpened. We do our own now, but used to get very mixed results from some of the Saw Doctors we used. Stephen Cull was the only reliable one.

My grandmother on my Dad's side also was an Ivy.

Looks like you’ve worked it out now. If you don’t get my reply let me know and we can swap email addresses or phone numbers etc.

If you take it outside it will get ruined. It is made up of multiple pieces of oak glued, and would certainly not be weather resistant. A new finish might help a little but it will only delay the inevitable. Save it for indoors and buy something designed to take the weather.

PM sent.

There are markets for Poplar. What length are the logs? I could do with a lorry load if you can send them to South Wales.

Take care - it is not just the finish you need to consider. If there is any glue used for laminating or joints this is unlikely to cope with going outdoors. You could post some close up photos for the ArbTalk community to look at and advise you.

Mendip Forestry. Maybe try individual estates - they may not be hiring but they will give you pointers and contacts. Try Longleat for example.