rowan lee
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Everything posted by rowan lee
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My mistake, what i mean is a double sided cut or a cut from both sides of an over-sized log, i.e. if the max straight through cutting diameter is 10'', then a double sided cut will handle just twice that. I've noticed that some of these new log saws have different styles of fixed and unfixed blade guards, soem of which allow for a double sided cut and some of which don't.
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This one mate? Tilting saw Will it allow for double cuts mate? Are they more then £1000 new do you know, as thats the going rate for the Balfor and Major im looking at? Cheers.
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Basically want to eliminate the two man aspect of the oldskool saw horse and chainsaw operation, and am thinking a pto log saw like the 'Balfor 700c' SC 600/700 | Balfor or the 'Major' version Saw Bench | Saw Bench | MAJOR. Apparently the Major will double cut, but haven't been able to establish whether or not the Balfor or any other subsequent model will do this. Can anyone recommend any other brand that i might be able to get my hands on. (have looked at the Saw/cone splitter combi's btw, but not keen on paying an extra grand for the little splitter).
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Seen this setup for sale, Logsplitter/ Firewood jointer for sale in Offaly: €3,000 - DoneDeal.ie Reminded me of the thread a few months back of those building their own chainsaw processing units. Looks like a nice simple modification of a horizontal splitter, which could be cheaply build for oneself (I think £2500 for this is a little ambitious). So long as you had a constant chainsaw man, and another operating the hydraulic controls and loading the occasional stack of wood for the rollers, it would make a nice little cheap two man job.
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Any pictures of an 'old bird's beak' cut mate. Haven't seen this type used before. Presumably used on sloping or uneven ground, does it help break the fall of the tree? and would it be used more commonly if the felling direction is up slope or down? (or does this have no bearing whatsoever). Rowan.
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Thanks fellows, some interesting comments there to digest. Just to clarify - letter-boxing (haven't heard the term before), is this where you bore through the centre of the hinge perpendicular to the gob? before commencing your back cut?
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How's it going. Just thinking about gob cuts. From a lay mans perspective (me ), I've seen two basic gobs cuts. One where there gob extends up into the trunk and one that extends into the stump. I believe this has something to do with maximising the potential for planking profitability in the lumber trade(?). Anyways both of these gob styles have one thing in common, the horizontal top or bottom cut and the angle cut. My question is this - when starting a gob cut do you generally cut the horizontal or the angle out first, because i have seen a combination of starts in the past, and i'm just wondering if there are hard and fast rules about which start is more favourable given the situation - i.e. big trees (40'' +) vs. small trees (1st thinning), back leaner's, hollow/or rotten trunks etc etc. Cheers.
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cool, so pending on the weight distributions and favoured fell direction etc, either method is accepted. I suppose what i should added to my initial query in the post before was - would it have been possible to take the entire tree out in one go, given that a winch was used to aid the felling of the second back leaning forked trunk? (perhaps it is blatantly obvious to the experienced here, but just curious from a spectators point of view).
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Cracking sequence of action shots Ace. Nice Set up with Some contrast of seasonal changes there as well. And a wee laymans question here - Was wondering about this situation in the photo below. I have seen forked trunks like this in trees before, and often wondered what the favoured felling method might be. Would felling from below the fork not be easier? or is it potentially more dangerous and felling the individual fork trunks is a most? Thanks Rowan.
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Handy little Vice built on there as well, for the saws and that. Looks like a gnarly old chipper
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Judging from the paint work, looks like that yoke has been earning the dude 150 bucks ''re-stocking charge'' for some time lol. Plently of scams about these days. Those weak spot wilds on the axle look just about a mark up from a super glue jobbie.
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Serious launch off wasn't it. Pretty awkward spot, nice big fell mate - enjoyed that.
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Cheers man, for explaining all to me. Ive seen those types of wedges before alright, but never knew their correct name, or for what they were used exactly. Just as a matter of interest, (and this is a layman's question) could standard wedges be used on their own to allow just enough of a gap for the chainsaw bar not to be pinched in the back cut, or is a hi-lift essential in this situation even if the felling direction is favourable and has all the weight on the right side? Thanks for your help as well mate, big lump an all Nice pictures.
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Has this wacky one done the rounds around here yet? Not that the idea is a bad one, in fact if you had a bit of time on your hands it would beat going down to the gym on Tuesday night. With the cheesy music in full effect and the continental wackery feel to it, I was sure it was a link to an old channel 4 'euro-trash' episodes when i stumbled upon it. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7zTybDb9iQ]YouTube - Fahrradsäge[/ame]
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Sorted thanks for checking - I have a feeling the S/A valve already on the tractor photographed in my original post is piped from there, well its definately piped from the lhs anyways, just under the tin seat. will check and clarify with local mechanic sometime soon. Currently the tractor is 120 odd miles away. Most check at the weekend when im home.
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I will mate, thanks again. Thanks again treequip I'll have a look around for spool valve that has a locking position then and price against a standard.
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Ok, but the system craft weasle suggested consisted of a twin lever spool valve, with x4 inputs for more then one implement at a time. Can i plug a double acting ram with its own spool valve lever into a spool valve lever setup with detent then? If so does it matter what direction the flow is set? Thanks for your patience, slowly getting my head round all the limitations here.
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Aye Pete, will probably have a few chats with local farm mechanics, now that im seriously thinking about this. The ultimate would be running a wee front end loader of this little 35, with silage grab type attachment for bundling up brash, but i'd say i need a newer beast. Can't imagine how that would work out, running three sets of rams out front, would be slow ass no doubt.
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Thanks mate, i'm a slow ass typer as well. One question mate - lets say i set up that system you have suggested in the tractor cab. so i plug in my (new) top link hydraulic ram - everything is cool. Now i plug in my splitter to the other spool valve in the tractor cab - only this splitter also has its own spool valve as well. Presumibly i can't have the spool valve in the tractor on constant unless someone else is there holding that lever on all the time? Would i be right in thinking that in this instance, i would have to forget about running the top link hydraulic ram, and unplug my on-board tractor spool valve setup, and plug in my splitter spool valve set up instead - in others words is spool valve to spool valve operation impossible? Thanks for offering the drawing btw. Don't worry though, i think i get it.
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cheers
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That looks nice and simple mate, thanks for that.
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Cheers for your fast replies lads, seems you guys know what your on about. Didn't realise it would be as simple as that. Will make a nice little weekend project sometime. Seems that all I'm missing is the spool valve then and a return oil input fitting. Thanks. Would i be right in thinking the male valves on a standard splitter or other implement would be a smaller diameter to the s/a female valve i already have? If so presumably i can get a quick realise adopter to solve that problem.
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This is the back of my 35, it has one hydraulic auxiliary for a one way hydraulic ram on the left there just under the seat. We use it for a small tipper trailer. Could anyone on here explain to me in simple terms if/and how i could modify this circuit further for use on a two way ram i.e. have a second auxiliary female for use on a basic log splitter, hydraulic link box, or top link ram. Would it be possible to split the existing female, and run some kind of reverse relay? (Not sure what I'm talking about exactly, cos i'm not a mechanic, and not sure what is possible) Would it cost much to do if possible? Do know of any links that might be able to help me, with pictures etc. Thanks a lot to all in advance.
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Tara Mines LTD mate - Its an underground Zinc (8% grade) and Lead (2% grade) operation, extracting about 3 million TPA. Light vehicles are generally, scrapped and sold on for parts and scrap (they mostly get a bad doing and not usually worth re-building) Most other plant is usually re-built at 10-15,000 hr intervals, and wear parts replaced more regularly i.e. rams, bearings, tyres, scoop buckets, tipping bodies etc. After a few rebuilds a subbie on site, has them decommissioned in parts of Africa i believe.
