Big J
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Everything posted by Big J
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Correct. My 2" bands run at 6000psi, whereas the 1.25" bands I used to run on the LT40 run at 2300psi.
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Wider bands will be a bit more expensive, but 1.5" bands are easy to source. They will cut flatter, so are well worth going for. For instance, my LM2 was standard with a 1.25" band, but I upped that to 2". It means that the bands cost about 2.5 times as much, but they cut far better, so the economy is gained there. When considering band mills, it's worth looking at the size of the band wheels. A larger wheel will mean that you can run a thicker band (not wider, but thicker steel) and a thicker band will stay sharp far longer. I typically get three times as much cutting on the 2" 0.055" bands as I would have done on the standard 1.25" Woodmizer bands. Jonathan
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I tend to charge £16 to £24 a cubic foot for oak. £16 for fencing grade, £24 for quarter sawn.
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Not had any official tests (though did have a blood test relating to it once), though have spoken to the GP about it in the past, and he seems to concur. If I am completely sedentary for a sustained period (4 days or more), I find my metabolic rate returns to something approaching normal. Any physical activity causes not only an increased temporary calorific usage, but a sustained increased base metabolic rate. So for a period of a couple or three days, I will consume more food and produce considerably more heat, even when inactive. My body is just tremendously inefficient at day to day operation in this climate. I need to live in Lapland, though I suspect that might even be a bit warm!
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Don't bother with the EZ rail - it's not very good. A strong ladder is better. If the oaks you are dealing with are a fair size, you want to step up to an MS880 and 48" bar ideally. You'll just be cursing the lack of power and throat on an MS660 and 36".
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I'm 4000 to 5000 kcal a day usually. Only 2500 kcal so far today, though I haven't done that much. I have a high base metabolic rate (results in excessive heat production when physically active) and I'm tall and relatively heavy (6ft 8" and 100kg). I'd say you'd need more than 2600kcal, but everyone is different. Jonathan
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You could always buy band wheels from the States.
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In those instances, please get in touch and I'll collect them!
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Front to back horizontal baffle, yes. I'm sat in my office right now with it tidking over. 22c with the door ajar and it doesn't use much wood at all. Jonathan
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I've got the Bonnie from Champion Stove Company in my office at work and it's a cracking little stove: Champion Stove Company It's so good that I've decided to commission a monster stove for the house (our Bullerjan, as good as it is, just isn't quite large enough). Martin Champion builds all the stoves himself, the quality is excellent and the price superb. The 7kw Lightning, with the 'starburst' pattern glass door is £285. Being a British chap with a small business, I like to support other British chaps with small businesses. Jonathan
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Like this? Tencate Toptex Silage Cover,Firewood Covers, Woodchip Cover, Compost Cover and Crop Cover Flexible Lining Products Good suggestion too - perhaps better suited to keeping rain off the sides than the top as would it let water through if it was pooling? Jonathan
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Thanks for all the suggestion guys. I hadn't thought of lorry curtain sides, but it definitely sounds like the way to go. I was going to ratchet strap it on, so the wind shouldn't shift it.
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I have an increasing number of crates of firewood that I need to cover to keep the rain off them. Does anyone have a suggestion for a robust tarpaulin type cover that won't tear itself apart in the wind? This is the best I've come up with (combination of price and quality): http://www.tarpaulins-togo.co.uk/acatalog/Black_Silver_Super_Heavy_Tarpaulin_Covers.html I'm stacking my crates 3 high (3m tall) 2 wide (3.2m wide) so the 10 x 4m tarp is probably ideal.
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That looks pretty good for the price actually! That said, I think that I would still go for the Turner Mills Hydraulic model instead, as it's a bit cheaper with more features.
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Good work on the milling Scot, but you've got the chainsaw on upside down. The fuel and oil caps on the saw need to be facing up. It means you can refuel mid cut and also you want the chain pulling the saw into the log, not pushing it away. J
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I have a good metal detector. It doesn't work that well, so I don't use it. I find the best form of metal detection/prevention is to be selective with what you mill. You'll hit metal sometimes, it's inevitable. As Alec says, you could ruin a lot of timber digging for a small nail.
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But you don't need to do that. You can just work out the hoppus metre straight off without having to do one calc just to convert it to another value. Hoppus metre calculation: (3m x 1m diameter log) 3.14 (girth) divided by 4 - 0.785 0.785 x 0.785 (quarter girth, squared) - 0.616 0.616 x 3 (length) - 1.848 hoppus metres in the log Jonathan
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Well I brought one of the boxes of rejected kiln dried spruce home last night and it's lovely. They are big lumps (18 inches long) and they last just as long as the hardwoods on the stove with the correct air flow. I got up this morning to a fire that was still alight, which is precisely the same as I'd have with Oak. I suppose the greater problem is open fires - why on earth are they not illegal yet?
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Sequoia can be a funny one to mill. I had about 8 tonnes of it a year and a half ago and whilst yes, it can be quite soft for the most part, the knots are very dense and can throw the bands off straight. I've also been having problems with the Ripper bands straight from the box. I've had about 32 bands so far, of which about 8 have been acceptable. 6 were the wrong length, 4 I've not yet tried and on the remainder, the set has been off. You take a blunt band off, that is cutting generally straight (but starting to wobble up and down a touch), put a box fresh one on and it crowns straight up. It's driving me nuts!
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Almost everyone I know. How else do you measure a sawlog? Measuring by tonne is prone to pitfalls if a log has defect that you need to measure out. Additionally, many small sawmills won't always buy in by the wagon load (no weigh grab). Celtictimber - the hoppus measurement is really tremendously simple. Measure you girth (all measurements in inches). Divide that measurement by 4. Multiply it by itself. Multiply that number by the length. Divide by 1728 for the hoppus foot measurment. Jonathan
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Using 3 instead of Pi as an allowance for saw keft and waste doesn't work unfortunately. For instance a 3ft diameter 10ft log has an actual volume of 70 cube (rounded), a hoppus volume of 55 cube and a volume using 3 instead of Pi of 67 cube.
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Very nice indeed James.
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Back to Cooksaw or importing an LT35 then?
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Don't think that's 3 tonnes. It's a 14ft trailer (I think), 6ft 6" wide. So 3ft bottom diameter, 2ft top (30" mid). 14ft length at 30 inch diameter is 68.73 cubic foot total volume, which is just under 2 tonnes. -
You could do a 'hoppus metre' calculation: Say you have a log 3m x 1m diameter. Mid girth is 3.142m. 3.142 / 4 = 0.79 0.79 x 0.79 = 0.6241 0.6241 x 3 = 1.8723 hoppus cubic metres in the log, as opposed to 2.3565 actual cubic metres (hoppus volume 79.45% of actual volume). Jonathan
