Omniata

I usually mix between 40:1 and 50:1 anyway, I'd prefer a little excess oil than too little, my saw runs fast since the 54mm upgrade, and retrofitting the heated handles, and being sat unused more than used a lot of the time, so didn't want to take any chances. I used to use Shell V-Power, then stopped, for the above reasons, I use the Esso +99 in my strimmer. The Aspen4 5 litre cartons are great, plenty of headroom to tip oil in and mix without overflowing.

Just preference really, I've always used husky oil, odd really now I come to think of it, started using it 10 years or so ago, or whatever the husky equivalent was back then, their 1 litre measuring cartons have a graduated gauge on the side, so it will measure for 1L, 2L, 3L, etc, of petrol, so you don't have to use a whole 5L, I think someone recommended it over Stihl's oils originally, so I've just stuck with it, the only variable then is the fuel.

One thing to be wary of is that in dry, anhydrous conditions, and hot environments, ethanol can react with both aluminium and magnesium, aluminium being the bulk component of most chainsaw cylinders, and/or pistons, the Stihl MS400 C-M has a magnesium alloy piston. Considering fresh E5, or E10, is dry, water free, and if a saw by it's nature, gets hot whilst running, the remaining fuel under the piston will have opportunity to react with both the lower sections of the piston and cylinder, and will evaporate into the upper chamber when the saw stops running, subsequently working it's way around the sides of the piston and into the piston ring grooves. Yes, a lot are Nikasil coated, however, all it takes is a worn surface, or not plated exposed area to come into contact for the corrosion to start. It leaves a white powdery residue on the surface, also making the aluminium surface rough and porous... Additionally, as others have said, it sucks moisture out of the air like a vacuum, and we all know what water in a cylinder will do. Whilst it won't form aluminium or magnesium ethoxide, the reaction product of ethanol and either metal, in wet environments, it will leave a residue of the metal oxide or hydroxide. Just my 2p, just resurrected my MS460(W) 54mm , doesn't get used heavily, and had been left for a while, but only putting Aspen4 mixed with Husqvarna XP 2 stroke oil in it from now on, I can justify the cost because of the limited/irregular use. Esso offer a "potentially" E0 fuel, Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99, which whilst they claim it to be ethanol free, it has to be labelled E5 because of government regulations saying fuels must be labelled in accordance with containing "up to" 5% ethanol, not that they contain a total of 5%: https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels/petrol

Me neither, but as I say to my little boy "It's not about the winning, it's the taking part that counts" Great job done by all the members raising £7000 this year!

Just buying a few too, well worth it, even if you don't win...

As Spud said, take the clutch off then the pump should be held in with two T27 screws... It's a good idea to take all the plastic covers around the clutch off too for better access to removing the brake band... If it's anything like an MS460 it's a doddle, done in 20mins or less It's also a good idea to pull the oil hose out the same side as the pump and check it's in good condition/clean, and blow through the outward feed through the crank case to clear any gunge...

Sony Xperia X10... Android, would have anything else...

Think you can get hub adaptors for different sized wheels... You bolt them on first the bolt the alloys onto them...

Physically how big's the tree??? Is there no-one interested in milling it???

Speak to a solicitor and get them to file for court action and to contact the company directly... Usually when the receive a copy of the court paperwork and a solicitors letter they realise your not joking... Edit: As said above...

Wish I could, have CS30 & 31 but not CS38 or above and like my feet firmly on the ground

Yes, but you can't buy them new unless your qualified

Is this one too heavy 2001 MAN LE 6X4 TIPPER GRAB You could pop the chipper in it and fit mounts to the back for whilst in use...

Condolences to the family, if there's anything I could do to help I'd be happy to offer my time...

Well it's been some time since I started these off but glad to say the Pearl oysters have sprouted!!!!! I haven't been near the house since towards the end of last year whilst it's been refurbished, but took a peek outside and the Pearl oysters were sprouting out of all sides of the log, I picked a few, sadly didn't have my phone with me at the time but all looking good... Here's a couple of pics of what I brought back: They're on average about the size of a 20 box of cigarettes/fags... And just as thick, seem quite meaty and the gills are well formed, placed them gill side down on the draining board for about 5 minutes and it was covered in spores...

I wouldn't mind meeting this guy to have a chat Bit of a "maddun" myself , I do a bit of welding on the side and was considering building a set of kilns myself that were self heating once the wood gas had been ignited after preheating... I was going to construct the kilns out of large diameter steel pipe and construct a fire brick/refractory surround around the outside, with a hinged/sliding door made of cast refractory/fire bricks... The only difficulty was constructing the chimney, high enough and conspicuous enough to create enough draw... I was then going to use CO2 to vent the kilns whilst cooling to limit the char...

scania 20 t/m hiab crane truck with cheesewedge ramps on eBay (end time 03-Mar-11 17:21:44 GMT) Any good??? Or this, although in france... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Iveco-Tipper-Truck-Palfinger-Crane-Grab-EuroCargo75e15-/170602148952

Has the carb been adjusted recently? Could be not enough fuel going to the saw on the idle setting? With the saw off, rotate the cylinder to near the top to shut of the exhaust port and put about 15ml of 2-stroke oil in the cylinder through the exhaust port... Rotate the cylinder quickly to the bottom tilting the saw back and to the side slightly, then pull it over a few times gently whilst still off... Put 5ml or so of fuel in the cylinder and then try starting it as if from cold... I had to do it recently on an old saw that was doing pretty much the same thing, smoked quite a biit on first start then ran fine...

Impulse hose to the carb? Is that ok? Breather on fuel tank? Clear? Small filter in base of carb, looks like the old filters off smoking pipes... Is that clear too?

Where and when?

Sounds a bit like what my saws doing now , well before he opens the H up... Will definitely open her up a bit after running it in EDIT: How much are you selling the 260 for?!

Because we owe so much debt to Europe in terms of borrowing and have no means other than tax to pay it back through lack of production and all manufacturing being outsourced... Add to that we're funding our own unemployed and "dolers" so the bill is enormous... If we didn't have so many people that "couldn't be bothered" on the system it would be an easy life over here... I don't wish this discussion to become more political than it already has but.... It makes my blood boil!!!!!