Tony Croft aka hamadryad

awesome post, some old skills given there:thumbup1:

No dig is diferent to no till, which is a specific agri term which uses traditional machinery to plant through a green mulch that has been terminated. The idea is (with no dig) garden style or small homesteads/holdings is to build the soil ecology and to leave it undisturbed whilst planting through a mulch often with cardboard for an intermediate soil contact layer. It has proven very effective, shall dig out some links (pun intended!)

thats a thing of Beauty Pat:001_cool: Man of many talents you are, shall look forward to some time in the woods this summer old school style:thumbup1: I have the best mates:001_cool:

look forward to it:thumbup1:

http://yeoldedelphbowmen.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/A-Short-History-of-the-English-Longbow.pdf

A deer stalker told me I guess he wouldnt know what he was talking about, you never seen an animal run on three legs? as for the long bows, I will be back in a mo The English Longbow, more than any other weapon of its time, was responsible for vast changes in the nature of medieval warfare. In doing so, it made England the foremost power in Europe during the 14th and 15th centuries. England's armies became the most feared units in Europe, and with good cause. Almost every battle fought was won by an intelligent utilization of massed archers and men-at-arms. Upon many occasions, English troops were sorely outnumbered, only to win the day. Such was the power of the Longbow that contemporary accounts claim that at short range, an arrow fired from it could penetrate 4 inches of seasoned oak. The armoured knight, considered at one time to be the leviathan of the battlefield, could now be felled at ranges up to 200 yards by a single arrow. One account recalls a knight being pinned to his horse by an arrow that passed through both armoured thighs, with the horse and saddle between! Modern tests have verified that this was indeed possible. A 700-800 grain arrow can pierce 9 cm of oak at close range, and 2.5 cm at 200 yards. No armour up to plate was proof against an arrow at less than 200 yards, and even plate could be penetrated at less than 100 yards.

A nice resipunate ( when a usualy bracket form emerges on the underside and exposing only the pore layers rather than the upper side)Phelinus pomaceus/tuberculosis and a little Ganoderma resinaceum I spotted in Oxhey yesterday whil sitting at the lights:001_cool:

They need a little help, they are getting so much foot traffic through over the rootplates, some have even failed because of it:thumbdown: It need an elevated decking pathway put through it, thought about startng some kind of project to fund it and propose it to site managers. I wouldnt want to stop anyone going there, just enable them and the trees to enjoy eachother in harmony

the difference is when you and me balls up we go bankrupt and get credit scored, when the banks do it they get millions from tax payers (you and me) without our consent, millions in bonuses despite the poor performance, and if they are one of the few to have to be "wrist slapped" to show good faith and a few sackings they get awesome retirement packages! or a job down the road at another (institution for the boys) dont put bankers above pond slime, they are taking the micheal out of us daily. check out the lawful bank group:thumbup1:http://lawfulbank.com/Welcome

gonna be a long time waiting for my bow mate but defo:thumbup:

Your a good egg Graham, would never hold it against ya, besides your 10 years longer in the tooth than me so to you im junior! anyone thats done 35 years in the canopy gets my respect!

Yeah, spent a lot of time hunting down the right man for the job, this bow is a work of art:001_cool: was thinking about the silver nocks but adding a lot to the price! so cool though! me and my father are going to take it up together as were not fishing so much these days, too much gear to carry, going to join a local club, im buying dad one of these but in Purple heart and lemonwood.

I have one of these on order, long wait mind you, Pacific Yew carriage longbow, comes in two, 50lb draw at 28inch:001_cool: rubbish, you should talk to people who use long bows! take a man off his feet at 150 yards! Deer are notorious for their capacity to run off with their hind quarter blown off with High powered rifles, a single arrow through the chest will drop one faster. idiots who take dirty shots will leave an animal suffering gun or bow makes no difference. sport hunting is something I find hard to agree with even though i fish catch and release, food is another matter. One must have a clean shot, and respect for the animal.

I think the brown is possibly a soft rot, it has a very brittle fracture surface and ash goes very brown during even the white rot of Hispidus, which is known to have a soft rot mode (for dormant season barrier penetration from my reading of Schwarze)

with you on this, the yellow soggy wood is classic HF, but that brown decay is interesting, not many bar rigidiporus that I can think of, but this is unlikely on ash.

Why bother! you gear junkies crack me up:lol:

I wasnt digging you out fella, just replying to the comment of it being a long time coming for a re shoot of the beech, 2 years is a good time dont you think? I have worked VERY hard to understand tree time, and so have many others, it isn't an easy thing to study and get to grips with, you have to see special trees in special sites to get a true understanding. You can take it as a given that I have a better understanding of tree time than most!

treeseer-without seeing crown hard to say re fert--if treee was just thinned--does a "proper thinning" mean interior was gutted?-- then fert would add a lot of end growth which aggravates the stability concern so sounds counterproductive. what else would fertilizer do? alter myco balance for example? re mulch, why tell owners they should give up lawn (which they like so much they just paid to thin crown to get light in), with need/benefit uncertain. there will be lots of resistance to that notion; better to fight another battle? why NOT tell the owners to give up some lawn? they may be keen to care for the treeand grass can and often does outcompete the tree for nutrients, and water, grass roots go deeper than trees. The needand benifits are not at all uncertain and well documented for mulching Guy:001_rolleyes: most important to keep flare clear--mulching that area would favor the decay fungus would it not? establishing objective first helps guide treatment options and we don't have owner here so... No it would not, in fact it would more likely bring in biodiversity, fungivorous insects and combatant fungi.

agreed. it looks to me like soil levels have been altered at some stage, die back may be as a result of surface root damage/removal. Also the grass is VERY lush and green, has it been "weed and feed" treated? scrub that last comment the soil level is old and there is moss in the lawn.

I agree, the HC will take some beating, would add as I do a lot of heavy work with 65's up top that the ability to lower and have pulled up to the work position of the saw through the HC set up is a gem of a trick. when tuned the HC does not tighten on me wet or cold or hot and dry, tachyon and armour prus two coils 2-3 wraps

B..L.X's:001_rolleyes: first line

This thread needs some adjusting, and surprised Blx wasnt picked up by mods in thread!

that is very astute and so true:thumbup1:

and im thinking ganoderma australe due to the second layers having been born as new layers from the rear rather than through via mycelium in the old tube layers. nicely done with the tubes exposed