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kevin bingham

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Everything posted by kevin bingham

  1. I run a rope bridge through the shackles and tie off a topper knot behind the shackles. Much better as the ring never gets caught behind the stitching or anything. Also easy and cheap to swap out bridges, never have to undo the shackles and the just stay tight.
  2. i would defintily say when your starting on the wrench throw extra wraps into your hitch. Make it tight. get the friction strong so you have to drag it up the rope a little. As you gain confidence with the technique you can speed your hitch up a bit. Sam as in ddrt. A stiff hitch cord can also not catch sometimes. I find a more supple cord like the Yale beeline is more reliable than the Teufleberger stiffer oceans poly. Play around with your hitch cords and just make them really bomber especially in your long ascents where the hitch has more opportunity to open up. monitor it as you are ascending and remember speed is not important so just keep an eye on your hitch. If you need to stop, lanyard in and re-adjust your hitch do so. The hitch will be different than what your used to on ddrt. There are thousands of great combinations out there.
  3. I like the pintos for sure. The omni block has been a very good friend. I am just now starting to use the rings and am quickly starting to see that they are going to replace my pulleys and my blocks the more I get used to them. Too simple.
  4. I'm going to say the x-rigging rings or Antal rings are the way of the future. Goodbye blocks and pulleys.
  5. I meant to say Bight. Throw your wrench over the next crotch and dont pull the tail through. when you get to your final destination, then pull your tail through and go to work.
  6. Just throw a night of rope over you don't have to pull the whole line over till your ready to work. Also you can set how much tail you have before you climb. One of the great advantages of srt is you can climb a 40 foot tree with a 200 foot rope using only what you need. In ddrt a 200 foot rope in a 40 foot tree is a pain in the arse.
  7. Oh I see what your saying. Yes it is a pain. Make a slip knot down the line and clip it to a biner on your harness this will take the weight off. A butterfly with a mallion is superior to only a knot if any kind.
  8. I like a bowline with a night rather than a butterfly because its midline artacheable. Back it up.
  9. A lot depends how high you are ascending regularly as well.
  10. Yes of course. He was concerned about spending money on gear. The more toys the better right? But you don't need money to srt. It can be done with the same gear for ddrt. One rope one hitch a couple a biners. A pantin if you can't footlock. I love my petzl ascent tree but I never clipinto it. I use ascender as rope grabs. They kind of sketch me out.
  11. It's fine but more if a pain because you have to swap around your whole system and carry around and buy another piece of gear.
  12. I didn't really find a corollary that much better than a hitch honestly. And I would much rather fall on a hitch than a croll. A croll will cut your rope. If you have a hitch than it is a easy switch to ddrt. It's also possible to descend easily with the addition of any friction device like a Munter. With a croll, your pretty much stuck in up mode. Srt need not be expensive. I use a hitch quite often for my upper ascender as well.
  13. If you like the 13 mm try the vortex. It is a little bit tight in the 16 strand. I also believe that since the strands are so much bigger it gives way for friction. I have found the vortex to work well giving you a fatter line to swing and hang on to but with a smoother supple feel for descent. I also find sixteen strand to have just way to much stretch for srt climbing. The vortex is quite static. Very fun line.
  14. I love my leather tube. I use it srt quite a bit for soft barked trees. I also use it a lot for light remote rigging. I think it's a great tool to have in the bag.
  15. This is the problem with hitch based systems and efforts to regulate them. Every person will have different needs in a hitch
  16. I bet depleted uranium would make an awesom throw bag. It's quite a bit heavier than lead so you could make it smaller.
  17. Yes, I am really loving seeing all these fantastic solutions
  18. That is really slick nick!
  19. I am not disagreeing with your suggestions... Just that I don't believe that is my department or the best use of my time or skill set. This is why the rw is not made in Detroit any more and those issues are now handled by ISC. I am just a climber and a tinkerer....
  20. I'm not dismissing what your saying, I just am not sure how far any hitch based system can go in the eyes of a regulator. I am also not convinced that the wrench can really be improved without over complicating it.
  21. I think the large part of the problems with that is inherent in hitches. Testing and regulations and CE / EN red tape is not something I personally have any ability or desire to tackle. I will leave that to ISC. What would being bonafied look like? I think that mechanicals have a much easier route to bonofication.
  22. I would also add that ISC has extensively tested the rw with a sterling tether with Yale bee line and a variety of commonly slected ropes to ensure that the results conform with EN standards. They can be contacted directly for more info. They would not have taken this project on if they believed it would not conform to existing CE and EN standards.
  23. The zig zag is for ddrt only, the rr is for srt only. Quite different designs as well
  24. Because hitches are so variable, an all in one package for the rw is a tricky quest. I personally like a 10 inch tether with a short hitch for instance. My friend likes a 15 inch tether and a long hitch. Like Worc wuss said, I am not sure a rw specific tether and tender is possible without overcomplicating the wrench. The beauty of the wrench is its simplicity. If your going to complicate it... Than lose the hitch. Hence the rope runner. Springing the wrench is quite easy with a stiff tether and a bumper.

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