tommer9
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Everything posted by tommer9
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:lol:
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Totally hit the nail on the head.
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Come again??????????
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I get it now:blushing:....it ought to be worth something though ubless it is rotten, even being branch wood. Good luck with it.
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The ISC is tried and tested and cheap, the DMM looks sexy as hell. Both do the job perfectly well, I have both, and if i had to choose, i would find it hard. I prefer the locking mechanism of the ISC to the screw arrangement of the DMM, but there's not much in it TBH.
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I TOTALLY disagree. Fair enough asking for general advice about how to work out pricing jobs...GENERAL advice, such as the factors that go into it etc etc, but to describe a job and ask for it to be priced is, IMO, bang out of order. Then to get the hump is even less acceptable.:thumbdown:
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But surely no-one will buy branch wood above a large cavity without seeing it first? It seems like a hell of a risk to the buyer, which would reflect the price offered, which is going to be minimal anyway due to the volume of timber, which would make it less appealing to the customer to have cut down.....and is that their main consideration for removal? Not trying to put a damper on this, but i have been milling for over 12 years, and selling timber too, and wouldnt but it without it on the deck TBH. Or do you have to give a POSSIBLE value for the timber?
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If it was in the members only area then maybe i would agree with you, but this is open to the eyes of the world, and someone reading that would possibly use it to explain away a theft or blag...."oh well arborists dont want it anyway guvnor" attitude
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Im not knocking the crappy little £500 jobs- I do loads of them, but I wouldnt dream of asking for payment or a deposit up front!!
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I would never take money up front, I think it is awful business practice. If i was involved in large scale long term work, i.e. weeks or months of it where i would need to pay wages and/ or equipment hire and large running costs, this would be tied into stage payments anyway, so the need oughtn't be there to take money up front. As huck says, what if you take the money and can't fulfill a deadline you had agreed to due to illness, accident or something else out of your control- your kit getting stolen etc etc. Especially on crappy little £500 domestic jobs!!
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Why dont you get a firewodd merchant in and give or sell it to him if you dont want it and cant cart it away. If i have small amounts like that i give it all to a local merchant for free at the time, and get help off him in other ways (use of forestry winch etc ) later. Bigger amounts he pays me for. The firewood boys are crying out for wood at the mo, esp hardwood FFS!
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Yet another fantastic resource offered to the world of Arb. Thank you. She is an amazing bundle of energy, but totally lovely too:thumbup:
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The presence of mayfly larvae in water is one of the indicators that the water is extremely clean:thumbup1:
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Dont get peed off with people giving you sarcastic answers mate- in my opinion you have got some real cheek asking other people to price your work for you, especially when its a p1ss easy job like you have described, and described poorly at that! TBH it really pee's me off when this happens. Learn the hard way like the rest of us. You know what you need to survive on (rent, bills etc) how much your insurance, wages and kit are going to cost you, so work it out from there istead of asking (IMO) out of order questions on here and getting the hump when people are a bit sarcastic. Sorry if that offends, but there you are.
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Likewise:thumbup:
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IMO Jim you could look at it from another angle.........highlight the beauty of the different woods- the contrast can be a good thing. Maybe use a VERY different wood? I found this guy incredibly inspirational.
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Nonsense.
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Is it the edges or the top surfaces you want flat? If it is the two meeting edges (which i think it is) that you require straightening then its a surface planer you need, not a thicknesser. It should only take 1/4 hour or so to do this. When you have jointed the timber you can then finish the surface. If you use a hand or electric hand plane then you can fill any remaining gaps with a mixture of glue and sawdust made from the timber itself from sanding it. You can get away with using Woodglue (PVA) but there are also proprietry glues available for this purpose. When dry and sanded you it is almost imperceptable.
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Take them to a joinery shop, offer them a small fee and get them to put them on the surface planer. Buy a biscuit jointer for about £35 and some biscuis, job done to perfection.
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:lol:
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Over breeding, esp with inexperienced and basically greedy breeders, who will breed to early from a pup. Cherry eye is just another problem trait with pikinese type dogs. (the King Charles is a mongrel breed originally)
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Hyenas..........and barbary apes in the back ground:lol: Those hyenas have the strongest bite there is, and barbary apes are among the most vicious animals in Africa apparently, with the strength to rip limb off with ease....or so i am told!
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Its just in breeding over the years.....king charles spaniels which have serious eye popping out problems, shi-tsus, boxers and pugs with breathing problems from deformed noses etc etc etc. Hybrid vigour is looked for in most areas of animal and plant breeding, but it seems that in the dog world for some bizarre reason pedigrees are seen as something better. That is fair enough in the world of crufts and breeding for breed's sake, but seems to make little sense otherwise.
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My point exactly.
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And 9 times out of ten a better dog than a pedigree IMO.
