tommer9

Same here. Told him if it was left up there police would be informed. Arsehole.

It would do:001_tongue: Ebay best bet mate.

Rupe- borrow a trailer, take the wheels off and take it down to the scrap metal dealer, not the scrap car yard. They pay for it. Thats probably all matey is going to do, and generalizing here, you will have no end of trouble if you let it go to a man with a transit who goes round after scrap. Then fill in the bit that says you have dismantled it yourself. Try here.Burke Bros (Cheltenham) Ltd.

That is a really cool pic mate. Top marks to the groundie, what a star esp given age. Give him lots of Kudos points and a beer!

Ill give him a ring. Probably go for that i would have thought.

Anything over 7' diameter other than ash or eucalyptus. He is on the A37 2 mile north of Shepton mallett. His number is 07907866821.:001_smile:Couldnt comment on money.

Tyrone snell trailers have it in stock.........Cornwall!! They were alot cheaper than ifor too.Tyrone Snell Trailers - Contact Us Very helpful i found.

With that kind of knowledege they will have to set up a whole new position just for you. That was way more than John was expecting.... (immediate start)

Hi guys- this is a call on behalf of a mate who is out carving just outside Shepton Mallet in somerset. If anyone can help- he could probably travel a little bit too, then pm me. Thanks.

Love the first pic. Such a contrast between the moss and the almost shining clean side.

Should be able to arrange something i would have thought.

Your welcome.

Oops, forgot to mention one of the most important things in my thesis:blushing: Have just put that in another thread! Paint the log ends before you mill. There are proprietry products out there, but TBH any paint will suffice.

This is sooooooooo true! cracking, warping, case hardening, checking, delaminating................ As with anything wood related, the slower the better.

When you fit the tipper, unless you put wheel arches in it:thumbdown: it WILL affect the height of the load bed- 4x4s have wheel arches in the load area precisely to avoid the problem yet still allowing suspension travel. Its not so bad when you offset it against not having to handball everything off!

Good effort on the mill mate! You can mill almost anything you like, as it is always more valuable than firewood, although you may not see a top return for a year or two for drying. Even though the trees you mention have been dead for a while, wood in the round just doesnt seaon. My fave tale is when my mate bought 30 acres of woods next to his farm, and we couldnt understand why this pisece of hedge had been built- 12'long in the middle of the wood. Until i noticed what appeared to be a tall tree stump a few feet off. I tturned out that the 'hedge' was an oak log, the sapwood had rotted completeley and there was about 6" of earth (years of rotten leaf matter etc) with a healthy selectin of understory growing off it! We dragged it out, cleaned the crap off and milled it, and it was sodden in the middle- as wet as if it had just been felled. When you have milled the timber, it is essential to dry it out properly. This requires a level base, ideally concrete, with some sturdy (3x3?) bearers every 18". Put your first board down, then directly abovr the bearers put some 1" stickers, then your second board etc etc all the way up. Ideally you want to weigh the top board down as much as you can. Another milled log is pretty good, and banding the boards "in stick" with the sort of bands you get round concrete blocks etc. (although personally i dont bother) The wood doesnt have to be kept indoors, some say it is better not for a year or so, but they dont want to be in direct exposure to the elements either. A pole barn is ideal. Dont cover them with plastic. To air dry in this country, which will get you to a minimum of approx 20% moicture, the rule of thumb for hardwoods is 'a year per inch, and one for luck'. i.e a 2" board wil take 3 years. Softwoods half that. For flooring or funiture use you will need to get it in a kiln to reach 10-12% moisture. If you are making garden furniture then you can make it green. As for thicnesses, it is very difficult to say. For commercial milling, all thicnesses have their place. For yourself just think of the final use for the timber- kitchen sideboards, window ledges etc. Oak is a good seller in lintel sizes if you find you have loads and want to shift some. Hope some of that helps. Happy milling.

You cant ride, i agree, but i was working today. No probs unless climbing slimy trees i reckon, especially since I treated myself to a stein jacket. They are really good. Sorry RSM Lofthouse, derailment over.

I was giving the vermeer a bit of a service AM, and out working PM in Illogan. Come and have a laff at my outfit any time mate! Still heard nothing about that Buryas Bridge job yet BTW.

I am peering through the rain at the track as i type!

There is a MAGIRUS deutz on fleabay at the mo! Awesome truck.

Guys those cars are sooooooooo cool!!

Hey mate- tipper conversions are not that difficult to do. Take the rear tub off and there should be a load of support points. Then get the tub you are going to use, fix it to a tipper frame and bolt that frame onto the hi-lux where the original tub sat. Get an electric tipping set-up from a scrap transit or cabstar etc, wire it in, choose some lights, wire them in, and hey presto! Simples.

Welcome to the forum Scott. Insulting people on your first post is a great way to start. Does the fact that so many of us build them not tell you something??

I am not sure if that is strictly true Mick, some of the more expensive ones i think are not- although i could be mistaken:001_unsure: I think that there is a difference between road and mountain bikes too.