TimberCutterDartmoor

1000000000000000% spot on correct.

Extremely good question; this (RL again lol) product lol Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil for Racing - Engine Oil Break-In Additive was used in a-series racing when I were a lad; proven better run-in in respect of rings etc. AFAIK glazing cannot be worn-in and you will never re-hone the bore and the latter is best for oil control in conj with the o/c ring. RL say on there product data not to use their oils for break-in - "allow X miles" From wiki: Diesel engines can suffer damage as a result of misapplication or misuse - namely internal glazing (occasionally referred to as bore glazing or piling) and carbon buildup. Ideally, diesel engines should be run at least 60-75% of their maximum rated load. Short periods of low load running are permissible providing the set is brought up to full load, or close to full load on a regular basis. Internal glazing and carbon buildup is due to prolonged periods of running at low speeds or low loads. Such conditions may occur when an engine is left idling as a 'standby' generating unit, ready to run up when needed, (misuse); if the engine powering the set is over-powered (misapplication) for the load applied to it, causing the diesel unit to be under-loaded, or as is very often the case, when sets are started and run off load as a test (misuse). Running an engine under low loads causes low cylinder pressures and consequent poor piston ring sealing since this relies on the gas pressure to force them against the oil film on the bores to form the seal. Low cylinder pressures causes poor combustion and resultant low combustion pressures and temperatures. This poor combustion leads to soot formation and unburnt fuel residues which clogs and gums piston rings, which causes a further drop in sealing efficiency and exacerbates the initial low pressure. Glazing occurs when hot combustion gases blow past the now poorly-sealing piston rings, causing the lubricating oil on the cylinder walls to 'flash burn', creating an enamel-like glaze which smooths the bore and removes the effect of the intricate pattern of honing marks machined into the bore surface which are there to hold oil and return it to the crankcase via the scraper ring. Hard carbon also forms from poor combustion and this is highly abrasive and scrapes the honing marks on the bores leading to bore polishing, which then leads to increased oil consumption (blue smoking) and yet further loss of pressure, since the oil film trapped in the honing marks is intended to maintain the piston seal and pressures. Unburnt fuel then leaks past the piston rings and contaminates the lubricating oil. Poor combustion causes the injectors to become clogged with soot, causing further deterioration in combustion and black smoking. The problem is increased further with the formation of acids in the engine oil caused by condensed water and combustion by-products which would normally boil off at higher temperatures. This acidic build-up in the lubricating oil causes slow but ultimately damaging wear to bearing surfaces. This cycle of degradation means that the engine soon becomes irreversibly damaged and may not start at all and will no longer be able to reach full power when required. Under-loaded running inevitably causes not only white smoke from unburnt fuel but over time will be joined by blue smoke of burnt lubricating oil leaking past the damaged piston rings, and black smoke caused by damaged injectors. This pollution is unacceptable to the authorities and neighbors. Once glazing or carbon build up has occurred, it can only be cured by stripping down the engine and re-boring the cylinder bores, machining new honing marks and stripping, cleaning and de-coking combustion chambers, fuel injector nozzles and valves. If detected in the early stages, running an engine at maximum load to raise the internal pressures and temperatures allows the piston rings to scrape glaze off the bores and allows carbon buildup to be burnt off. However, if glazing has progressed to the stage where the piston rings have seized into their grooves, this will not have any effect.

Another consideration is power density (aka bmep); the higher the hp per cc the higher the internal loads on finite bearing surfaces etc and the thicker oil will afford greater wear protection, especiallly in an engine running non stop all day vs a car doing the school run.

Good point about bore glazing; ice cream vans idling all day every day were the classic victim. How do you measure fuel dilution? UOA or a really sophisticated method like watching the spread of droplet on tissue (as I do for the forwarder!)?

Here's a good read for you! Motor Oils - Fuel Economy vs. Wear

I think wealth trickles down because I've experienced it trickle down to me! Not great wealth but a little something because someone better off than I helped me out. I know that capitalism suggests otherwise. Someone with money giving to charity is the simplest example to the contrary I can think of. I burst a pressure valve at the "F'ing coffee" comment. Look I'll never be a socialist left wing type that's it.

Do you cut the labels out of your underpants?

Think you need to re-read what I said I didn't say wealth trickles down. Although I do think it does!

IN YOUR OPINION! Expression with 3 F's in it comes to mind. Never said it was wealth that trickled down did I! Chicken head.

I'm a top-down voter rather than bottom-up; I see the EU as a far bigger and more serious issue than the NHS because IMO it affects all the small UK issues people are apparently upset about - the NHS, economy, immigration and then the other local issues. Merely basing a vote on your personal matters and concerns does little to influence the ultimate trickle down effect.

In a word, Thank You.

Yeah man

That is the problem Sir! Certain groups are successful in intimidating the UK public so successfully with fragrant disrepect of our cultures and traditions...

Another thing; plan your OCI before a long run. Getting new oil to working temperature and holding it there creates thermal stability in the basestock, irrespective of type.

had the 530 years ago and detested the angled hopper too!

:thumbup1: Lefties are ok with picture 1&2 Righties are ok with picture 3 I like picture 4&5

TP 160 tracked

I should have mentioned re the d4d; there is no high pressure fuel escape when removing the injector pipes from the common rail or when removing the same lines from the injector unions. Don't remove the central pipe from the pump tho (that sits between 1&2 and 3&4).

Not worried about the derail - it isn't really; lube is a matter in the original matter. It's so expensive because it is made only from Poly-ol-ester basestock and this is the most expensive to produce of any oil basestock. Basestocks are grouped upto group 5 the highest performance attainable. 1 & 2 mineral and lightly cracked. 3 is hydrocracked but called full synth 4 is PAO - a considerable upgrade from grp 3. 5 includes all others inc esters. RL uses POE the highest and most expensive of the esters. That price was ball-park from Opie Oils; Old Hall Performance are the UK importer. Postage would be foc at that order price!!! AMSoil is PAO but not much cheaper than RL so you fall back to 2 & 3 group oils at realistic prices. Motul is another good ester product but for 15W40 heavy duty nowt touches RL. Have a read of this! http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCIQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbodieselregister.com%2FTDR57_Oil.pdf&ei=J4QxVePyL5LvaPahgKgE&usg=AFQjCNEuG1MFG_v65JpycOIde5-m4hJcsw&bvm=bv.91071109,d.d2s

Warning! It aint cheap! I wanted to put the requisite 19.5 litres in the harvester engine but can you imagine the price!!! Would work out at about £300!!! Completely out of the question at that price regardless of how good it is! I went for JD PLUS 50 II which is £60 ish for 20 litres... Anyway if you really want to go down the RL route it would be this: Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil - 15W40 Diesel Motor Oil

Update; as expected caught it just in time; oil strainer with some positive sludge carbon deposits - now cleaned. Oil pan given a bit of a scrub. Flushed for 10 mins, followed by sacrificial oil run for 5 miles followed by final fill of 5W40 PAO synthetic... Sounds quite different!

2007 in this case but also done the exact same job on an 2002 avensis 2.0 d4d. Once you go to the silver seals, the problem should be solved for good.

Sometimes it's a curse lol. Yeah, these low saps oils - so as not to poison the catalyst; you can't win. Initially the removal of traditional minerals i.e Phosphorous led to problems with valve train durability, particularly engines with sliding cam followers; other additives are used to aleviate the problem but I doubt with such success; it's like 4 star TEL and valve seats all over again! As you know, I'm a serious fan of RL oils; if you compare their traditional 15W40 specific DEO to the 5W40 there's not a lot in it in data terms (cSt, HTHS etc); however the detergent package (TBN) and higher mineral package of the 15/40 is why RL don't always promote this option for light passenger cars whereas the 5/40 has been pushed thru the likes of VW 50# specs and all the rest of it and has a reduced add pack. All the while, the POE basestock in RL is a major insurance policy irrespective of the particular add pack pros and cons; there are no other group 5 oils that can reassure me in the same way. You can email RL and dave will get back to you with specific guidance to your application. You are right; the latest CH-4+ oils (CI and CJ) are often low saps lacking the guts to do the job; there is a good article on the TurboDieselRegister. In our own tests, cannot yet find a lube that exceeds RL for maintaining MOFT in bearings (load carrying capacity - film strength), resisting HT oxidation and shearing. Unbelievable stuff, the holy grail for sure. Mindful that Toyota had a bit of a rep for sludging, I'd be bunging some RL 15W40 in there.