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Giles Hill

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Everything posted by Giles Hill

  1. These are quite handy for starting off with. AIE - Tree Fungi http://www.mkweb.co.uk/parks-trust/documents/Fungi_Identification.doc
  2. Not exactly, for the tech cert you need to know what technology / kit is available for decay detection, rather than knowing how to use it.
  3. Thanks for bringing this one up Phenom - it was interesting to read it again.
  4. If you're ever unsure, just apply a little Canesten - it's great for thrush but hopeless for kestrel.
  5. It looks a bit like a thrush to me?
  6. Birch rods were used for corporal punishment in public schools, as in give 'em the birch. I won't lower the tone by referring to the S&M usage I found when checking the above on google.
  7. There have been a few threads recently about rowan suddenly dying. Did someone mention there's a wider problem affecting the species? I can't quite remember...
  8. It's not quite as simple as that, as that as I was trying to suggest in the last post. Some species seem to be more tolerant than others, but a lot will depend on the age of the tree, it's vigour and it's environment. Likewise with how much damage / disturbance they will take. I think the book does give quite a few clues though - for example, the section on transplanting is relevant - trees with fibrous roots transplant more readily than ones with woody roots and it's probably not a coincidence that the woody rooted ones are also species that are often considered to be more intolerant of root damage when mature. Also the information about how some species tolerate compacted ground better than others.
  9. That is a good book and it has a lot of information along the lines of what you're asking. There are a number of factors to consider - species of tree is just one of them - vigour, age and environment of the tree will all have a bearing on how well a tree can respond to soil disturbance and root damage.
  10. Good luck with the resit Theocus, it should be a bit easier having just one thing to concentrate on. Do you know what you did wrong? I found the BS exam very tough, even though I'm familiar with doing BS work on a day to day basis. It was just a very weird scenario and I didn't read the paper properly so started off doing a full survey, when all you needed was to measure a few stem diameters. After that I struggled to complete the work and made a bit of mess of it.
  11. I've not looked in for a while - work has been very busy. I'm pleased to see that arbtalkers have done well. I passed too.
  12. Here's an old birch with a butt that's considerably wider than the stem. The photo isn't great, but it is more of a ribbed / butress structure rather than a bottle.
  13. I guess your test sections were laid next to each other, rather than on different sites?
  14. I do specify the terram version rather than the cellweb one, but what you've just said is news to me. I thought they were quite similar, what difference in the material / design do you think was causing the difference in drainage? I'm in a job where I draw pictures of how to do things rather than actually doing them, so I'm always to glad to learn.
  15. If possible, I'd normally recommend constructing the construction access in the same place as the finished site access - i.e. to save removing it at the end of the project. Just construct the site access using a no dig spec with a cellular confinement system to provide your ground protection. The cellular system also forms the base for the finished paving, which can be constructed at a later date. I just googled this which might help: http://194.201.98.213/WAM/doc/Other-466068.pdf?extension=.pdf&id=466068&location=VOLUME4&contentType=application/pdf&pageCount=2 I've got a basic construction detail for the above if it helps.
  16. Here's a different picture of an enormous smooth leaf near the Stour valley: I posted some other pics of this and some other trees a while back on this thread: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/picture-forum/3820-elm-porn.html No measurements I'm afraid. There's a pretty large one - too big to get your arms around - in whitehouse park, Ipswich - it's right on the Norwich Road, so you can see it if you head into the town that way.
  17. The first one might be a tatty Bjerkandera? Is it on dead wood? Magic mushrooms are a grassland species, those brown things look like they're growing out of a stump.
  18. Sounds interesting SWB. Regarding gypsum, from what I can gather, it works as a soil conditioner and increases infiltration, therefore it hastens leaching. i.e. I don't know if it would make a lot of difference if a soil was free draining to start with. Here's a gypsum based product: Vitax Clay Breaker 2.5kg wychallhardware.com And here's some technical stuff I googled and based the above comment on. Salt-affected soils and their management - Google Books From your description, I'd guess it's the dry shade, rather than road salt that's making the difference between the beech and the hawthorn.
  19. Strange, I'd normally expect the hawthorn to establish quicker than beech. Are you on a dry soil? Is the area shaded? I would have thought the same for hawthorn, being as they're both deciduous. I guess the hawthorn might be flushing earlier, before the salt has been leached out? I don't know that manure will reduce salt content. Irrigation certainly will. According to 'Tree Roots in the Built Environment', an application of gypsum will counter soil salinity.
  20. Diagnosis of ill health in trees by Strouts and Winter is good for pests and diseases, but could do with an update.
  21. Sounds like he's a paranoid Watchdog viewer!

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