Rupe

My final thought is this......... Its surely no coincidence that neither honey brothers nor treeworker stock the 13mm version of the small ISC block, and that I've never seen one!?? It does exist, but for regular use a 16mm pulley with a 13mm rope is fine!!

Yes it does your right!! Petzl ones say >13mm etc and some say 13>diam<16 for example. The smaller rope is much nicer to use for small stuff but I wouldn't want 4 13mm blocks as well, I've got too much as it is. Have you seen in one of my vids that I change the rope from 13mm to 16mm using throwline to join them so it runs through the blocks? I can rig off 13mm then get the groundie to change the line, rig the larger stuff, then switch back again with out changing or going back to the blocks.

I think your original plan is fine (but with a 16mm block). If you go to 16mm rope then you will need more than a figure 8 to lower off, so you are entering a different area altogether. Stay well with the SWL of the rope that you get and you will be fine. But I also agree that you could wait till the course and learn more about it properly then. Arbtalk is for good for oppinions and ideas but you need to listen to what the instructors say to pass the course, after that you can work more things out for yourself.

Cool, not seen that one before! I still think it makes negligable difference. Theres no way I'd buy 4x 13mm blocks for the initial phase of a job then switch to 16m rope and 2x 16mm bocks, for medium weight wood then switch to 19mm rope and a 20mm block for heavy wood, especially as you might want to switch back and forth during the job anyway.

Block only come in 16mm and 20mm, so for 13mm rope your stuffed then!! You can still use a 13mm rigging line in that system. Lets say the 13mm has 4000Kg BS, your sytem now has an overlall workign load limit of 400kgs. No worries that your pulleys etc are bigger. Flattening of the rope would only occur in very heavy loads where your increasign the cycles to failure anyway. You might feasably speed up those cycles to failure but regular inspection should detect that. Your not wrong, and if that is how you were taught then thats fine. I personally set up with the biggest pulley I'm going to need for the job, but use a much smaller rope to start with and increase size when required without going back to replace pulleys. I can increase the size of the rope well before I get anywhere near the SWL for the rope. I think if you have one rigging line then you would want to get pulleys that fit it, but if you have three rigging lines and (like me) you use 2-3 or even 4 blocks at a time that would mean you would need a lot of blocks! Thats not really feasable, but they only come in 16 and 20mm anyway so for 13mm rope you don't have much choice.

My advice would be this! If going for any type of insurance, please don't tell them you nickname is "dangerous" brian

Good reply! I was hoping the poster might forward the question to the AA section, you shouldn't have to trawl the whole forum looking for possible questions to answer, but you did so no worries

Self employment is the best insurance against sickness!!

dose the 16mm pulley not need 16mm rope and vice versa The vice versa bit is correct, a 16mm rope need a 16mm (or larger pulley) but not the other way round. 13mm rope in 16mm pulley is fine, bend ratio would be greater than required of you use a bigger pulley, not smaller than required, so no worries. You can put a 13mm rope through a 19mm pulley, no problems. Buying a 16mm pulley now makes sense as it means its there for the future, plus as far I know there isn't a 13mm block available??

Oh yes!! I was looking at the title of the pdf, it says march 10

Thats wednesday, not tomorrow. Interesting that Lister wilder are doing a timberwolf/stihl demo day the same day in cirencester.

Your right, whoopies have an eye at each end, one of which is adjustable makeignthe overall lenght adjustable.

I lost 5 tons of Poplar in a weekend! I was delighted!

I think you should have CS41 for that. And use of saw from a MEWP as well. CLimbing with saw ticket covers using one from a mewp. (top handles that is, if they are using larger saws that may be ok) Good question for AA tec.

Yes, split tail is good. You always use at least one size up from your rigging line, so a 16mm is good. If rigging with 16mm rope you would attach block with 19mm split tail etc. That is because there can be double loading on the anchor (theoretically) and so it maintains the rope as the weakest part. and ive never been able to work out the difference with whoopie and loopie slings, can you enlighten me? Your gettign technical now! Erm, well...... A loopie is an adjustable circle, and a whoopie is like an adjustable split tail in a way. You can adjust the lenght of the eye I think. I've never owned a whoopie cos I've never had a flying capstan thingy.

I just checked and that lirios rope is pretty strong!! And a Tad stronger than the other one. Either would be perfectly good I'm sure. Yes to that Block. You need something way stronger than the rope for your main anchor. The lightweight one is rate 45k, that less than the rope, thats no good. The rope should be the weakest part of the sytem ideally, you'll learn all this on the course. The ISC blocks should last a very long time so they are a good investment. The lightweight one (if used as a top anchor) wouldn't last long at all.

All good, but you will be quite limited with that pulley. Its ok for top rigging lightweight stuff but not for dropping loads onto. I use them as redirects and for final lowerign points but not for main anchor. A small ISC block would be better and then the lightweight one aswell if you can afford it. And for rope, a little more money would get you the 13mm double braid rope which is much better.

Most people who need an arborist in the long term will aske their peers for recomendations. YP only covers the one off, price shopper. IMO.

Thats what I was getting at. Not a blanket "I'm not responsible" and definatly not after the damage is done. As for what constitutes damage, I think I stated roof tiles not include but structural damge to roof i.e. beams and woodwork etc would be covered. I can dig out some pics I think, it will be clear why I did it that way for that particular job.

You can quote how you like. I'm not saying I've done it often, and I'm not suggesting it would be the thing to do in this case. I agree you can't say its a fixed price and then change it, thats no good at all and I'm not suggesting that. But you can state that your price does not include covering damage to the crappy roof, as long as thats in the quote. Weather you get any work doing it that way depends on the customer and any other quotes they might have. An honest quote with no loading for possible damage but no liability for damage might be a better choice for the client than a loaded high just in case quote. Its their chioce. I'm not keen on paying for asbestos roofs if, for example, the client is planning on replacign the roof later once the tree is gone. Discuss with the client what their expectations are and then quote accordingly. If the roof is perfect and they want/expect no damge then of course I would quote on that basis.

Especially if you don't really want the job cos you can tell they are going to try and get a new roof out of you!

Rubbish, you can state what you like in a quote. Its up to the customer which quote they accept. If something is in a weakened state already you shouldn't have to make it better than it was?

I've detailed in quotes that I will do my best to not break fragile roofs BUT if they are fragile, I won't be held responsible for minor damage. If the client needs to replace a sheet of asbestos then i'll leave them to it. I take responsibility for overall structural damage of course, but you can't be expected to pay for old asbestos sheets that should have been replaced years ago. ANd insurance is a waste of time as most excess payments are too high to make it worth claiming.

That looks like a good compromised solution, well done. Pics are now legally required.

Ok, I'll try that.