Tully

Surely the same reasoning behind us been trusted to tie correct knots whilst working could be applied to us using gear correctly, even if it is hand made. I know it currently doesn't but just doesn't seem to make sense.

So could that hand made splice you got..

Yeah rope guide is made by ART and does cost some £££.. I see this thread going the same way some have gone before. 'What are folk thinking of suggesting other climbers climb on non CE marked kit? At best case scenario it would potentially invalidate your insurance in the case of an accident. Home made stuff isn't tested to any industry standard and may be assembled incorrectly and could fail.' 'It goes against all of the industry guidelines and a decent LOLER inspector should point this out ! (see LOLER thread started by Andy Collins) It should be possible to climb using loads of rigging kit but its not tested or constructed for PPE Jees guys what are you thinking recommending this to folk ? ' So by this you are saying that all handmade splicing should be stopped even if we have been trained? I had a CE splice on an old Yale inferno fail even before i climbed on it as the rope had clumped on the inside under the pressure during the splicing process. With a handmade splice you know how it has been put together and understand how it works. With a factory splice you know its been made under extreme force by machines and have no idea what the inside looks like. I would say the same applies to making PPE (i.e cambium slings etc). If it has been made in a way that you understand how it works and components are rated then surely there isn't a problem. Some climbers use accessory cord for friction hitches. Accessory cord is not sold as PPE but to hold accessories. This doesnt stop them selling it shops as prussik cord.

Ahh.....it was you Yeah that step is at a 45 degree angle and was great fun hoping up and down..must of been quite a bough you hit it with..sure the bill is in the post. Weird using that machine again I hadn't used it since it left R bell... Had it out on full for the job, the wind started to blow and the wobble wasn't enjoyable.

Good job:biggrin:

you must be seeing things mate...

Sdt??

Got a MEWP in today to dismantle this old Chesnut to a monolyth as half the tree ripped out about 2 months ago. Shame but the half that ripped out did land on a house so they had reason to take the remainder down. I'm happy we left it as a monolyth for conservational value.

dont charge. Just make it clear you only start the application process upon acceptance of the quote.

Thanks for the link Dave. Cheers Andy. They were the 3 that I narrowed it down to and I got some brochures today. Charnwood have an interesting back boiler that comes in the form of a flue that can fit on to most of their dry models and does not take from the nominal output to the room. I would say that charnwood are wining it at the moment but budgets have been set and I really do not want to hit over £1k. Hunter are definatley good value but the wet side is actually more than i need and less to the room. If you have any other suggestions then im open to ideas. requirements are. 2 - 3 k to water only. 5 k plus to room as living space is an open plan bungalow but my abode isn't huge so guessing about 50 m2 of space to heat. Maximum width can b3 660mm to comply with HETAS and has to be 6 inch flue to comply with HETAS for burning wood. Will be intouch soon Andy regarding the Briquettes, just waiting on an arrangement regarding storage facilities. Tully

Ive narrowed my choices down to 3 but am hoping to get some information from anyone that has used one of these. I need to heat 1 large towel radiator and 1 166L water tank (so 3k clip on will do). I need at least 4k to the dry side but hope for a tad more. My choices are 1.Charnwood country 8 stove WEIGHT 105 KGS FLUE DIAMETER 150 MM MAX HEAT OUTPUT 8 kW CLEANBURNING Yes AIRWASH Yes BACKBOILER OPTION 3 kW - central heating stoves info 2.Aarrow ecoburn 11 WEIGHT 105 KGS FLUE DIAMETER 150 MM MAX HEAT OUTPUT 11 kW CLEANBURNING Yes AIRWASH Yes BACKBOILER OPTION 3.4 kW - central heating stoves info EFFICIENCY 74.7 % 3.Hunter Herald 8 WEIGHT 120 KGS FLUE DIAMETER 150 MM MAX HEAT OUTPUT 7 - 11 kW CLEANBURNING Yes AIRWASH Yes BACKBOILER OPTION 5.5, 8.5 kW - central heating stoves info EFFICIENCY 68.5 % Apologies for another boring wood stove thread

Nice shots Gibbon. Heres some to start but will get some better ones up. Got a nice big Horse chestnut to rig down soon.

Instead of tying the rope to the bits you cut and rig which can take time. Use slings and have a rigging plate attached to the end of your lowering line so you can clip the slings to the rigging plate with a karabiner. This is a lot easier and faster to tie and the groundies just have to unclip the biners and send them back up on the rigging rope. This way you are not waiting in the tree or your groundies to untie knots. edit. this also means you can clip more than one bit to the rigging plate.

That PDF file is very useful. Thank you for that.

What are the benefits of having the ascender above the rope capture point (petzl croll or hitch)? In my head i imagine it would not be as fast as 'rope walking' but you gain the aided help of the hand ascender.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-_GUggGMmM&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL]YouTube - DLRW[/ame] I think this guy gets the setup right. I know he is using DRT but you can use the same principles on SRT. This DRT looks really energy efficient and this is what im going to get geared up to try.

Just found a foot loop on ebay for £14.

Looking forward to the pics of the setup. Where can you buy a foot loop from or do you make them?

sorry...just stating the obvious... But no..luckily never found that one out the hard way:laugh1:

To work on.. Leylandi because you dont feel guilty what ever you do to them. To look at.. one of them would be Gleditsia, when they get big they are very pretty.

The ground anchors do work. Make sure you put it in at an angle facing away from what you are attaching to. It will move a bit but will stop and be secure after. If that fails see if you can hire '18 stoner' for a day and anchor off him.

I am sure Darwin faced similar opinions.

Yeah, What amazes me the most is how you can judge the large section being lift to know that the weight wont make it swing as you make the cut. Rigging in a dismantle is different as the piece being cut is not going up but going down so you know where is a safe area to position. I guess this comes with experience of these types of jobs. The groundies must feel the pressure to clear the brash when such a large section is presented to them.

What were you looking for to stumble across this oddity?