Alycidon

Should have found a Morso dealer, they are listed on the Morso UK web site, just put your post code or nearest town in and the nearest 6 dealers will come up. All should have Badger on display as its one of the top two sellers. Many of the online sellers are selling grey import badgers, these are rated at 6.5kw and legally require outside air ventilation. There is also no UK supported warranty. Buy one from your local dealer, its a UK spec model with the full Morso UK warranty back up and it carries a 5kw plate, it is exactly the same stove but now in most cases does not require outside air ventilation. A

1410 is mainly used on boats as the main source of heating, these tend to run 24/7 on solid fuel as wood wont hold in long enough over night. Solid fuel burns from the bottom up so the air coming through the bottom of the door vent needs to be below the level of the fire to make it perform. Ash should be removed daily, if you let it build up it wont do the grate any good. When the stove is burning wood the lower air supply should only be open on lighting, when the stove is alight it should be closed. I do find that if burning wood that is wetter than ideal or burning Oak then a bit of primary (lower control) air is beneficial. For normal wood below 16% MC then it should not be needed. When burning solid fuel then have both supplies fully open as these require more air than wood does. Burning solid fuel keep the grate clear of Ash ( riddle from time to time), burning wood let ash build up on the grate as it acts as a thermal layer protecting the grate. The center grate section sits roughly level with the top of the outer grate, cant ever recall seeing one where the center grate is above the surrounding outer grate. The center section does have some short male projections on it pointing upwards for effective riddling. If that is the case then maybe you have ash under the center section or maybe fire errosion on the outer grate. Morso do sell what they call a coal saver insert set to do what you want re the last bits of fuel. Even the new dedicated woodburning Morso's all have an ash pan and grate, people much prefer that way as they are easier to clean out. I suspect that when you say the stove does not burn when the primary air is closed that may you have a flue problem, ie lack of pull. The 1410 has two air supply wheels, so no way do they get blocked. This could be caused by a number of things. But again it might be wet wood. A

If you get your cord very cheap then fair enough, paying £55 a ton for it then its no more expensive to import ready kiln dried logs from the Baltic states. You need something to handle those filled bags, if on a farm this can usually be borrowed. gets to be hard work hand balling cord all day and she wont stand that for long I can assure you. Other than that a small processor would be good either road tow or tractor mounted if you can run to something like an old MF135. A

How do you get on with keeping the glass clean?, I have seen a couple working in a pub and the landlords said the glass was always grubby as the ones working in their bars were. A

Should be perfectly OK. A

Bricks are consumable items, usually 2 years and thats their lot especially if you a , spank the stove or b, are clumsy when reloading with logs.. Damage you have is very unlikely to be ash on top of the baffle plate. My lounge Morso Panther (8kw) only burns wodd except when very cold when I put a bit of anthracite in overnight. The top baffle plate is getting bent, when you think of the temp inside the stove its hardy surprising, been in about 4 years now and will probably do one more winter. I suspect you are burning very dry softwood and leaving the air vent in the lower part of the door open. This causes over firing and will create the sort of damage you have. Or you may have knackered door ropes, they last no more than 2 winters given average usage, these will then allow lots of uncontrolled air to enter the stove. Ref the proposed 8kw stove. Do the heat calc for the room, work out volume, divide by 12 , 14 or 16 for bad, average or good insulation. This output will give you a 21 deg C temp rise if its 1 deg C outside as the sole provider of heat in that room. Allow extra heat for large glass area and a up to 60% more if a conservatory is attached. Dont forget that a permanently open air vent will need to be installed at 5.1kw or more, this is a legal requirement. A

36 cubic meters of volume, good insulation, you will want 2.25 kw of heat for that room. Wood and multifuel stoves start at 3kw nominal, if you want a lower output you put less fuel into it, so one log at a time instead of 3 maybe. Assuming you are not in a smoke control area then look at: Insets; Morso S81 (4kw), Aarrow I400S ( 4.9kw), Esse 301, (4.5kw ish) Freestanding, Morso S11-42, Morso Squirrel 1416 and 1418, Morso Swift, Esse 500, Aarrow View 4 and Ecoburn 4, Villager Puffin and Heron. In a smoke control area then of the above, S81, Esse 301, Freestanding S11-41, 1416 + 1418, Esse 500SE, Aarrow Ecoburn 5 Defra. PM if you want any more info. A

Welcome to the forum. Value on such stuff is hard to define as it takes a lot longer to process than a 3m pole straight length of cord. I have offer a couple of guys £20 a processed cube for hard cord, but the cord is delivered in. That way we both know what the end volume is but while it was agreed on the phone zero timber have ever turned up. Not heartbroken as I dont really have the time to process good cord let alone arb waste. I find it very hard to move any soft irrespective of what it is so value to me is more or less zero as I have enough soft cord coming off the family farm. A

I bet if you got under the roof you would have been amazed how hot it was, hence my comments about Ecofan. Having said that 10kw is nowhere near good enough. Most good brands rate their outputs conservatively, 4kw stoves that will give 6kw if asked, this is mainly due to thicker metal used in construction and better ways of air supply. The cheaper brands tend to mark it as it is, so a 10kw chinese build is pretty well 10kw max. I am aware of one Morso model that is now rated at 9.5kw, a few years ago it was rated at 14kw which is its true output if pushed, its a huge stove. This sort of thing is why anyone should buy a stove from a specialist who knows his products inside out rather than just a box mover. A

Hot air rises, dont put the stove on the upper level but by all means put it under the mezzanine. Just think how you are going to flue it, off teh top, through the wall at 45 degrees then up the outside would be best. Needs to be twin wall fully insulated flue parts except if you wish a short run off the stove. A

What are you burning in it ?, sounds like an over fireing issue., ,you do say you are working it very hard. Just because a brick is cracked does not mean it wants replacing, they work fine with a few cracks but once the brick breaks into 4 or more pieces or the brick starts to crumble then replace. On my own Morso its about every 2 or 3 years. The baffle plates will not bend unless subjected to very high temperatures. Burning petrolium based cokes will kill any stove in short time, your handbook says avoid these fuels. Burning softwood with the air supplys both fully open will also cause an overfiring issue. Close the air supply in the lower part of the door once the fire is established of burning logs. A

From memory its a flat rope, self adhesive on one side. Cut it to the correct width with a pair of scissors. If your glass retaining studs have sheared off Villager do offer a door refrurb service during which all studs are replaced. A

An open barn ??. so open to the elements on one or more sides ?, if so you can put what you like in there, it wont make much difference to the temperature due to the heat losses but the bigger the better. However lets assume its a barn conversion, so with 4 closed sides. Volume to heat = around 300 cubic meters taking an average roof height of 5m. Given poor insulation you will need 25kw, average insulation 22kw, and good insulation 19kw to generate a 21 deg C temp rise if its 1 deg C outside given that the stove is the sole heat provider. With a roof that high an Ecofan would be pretty well vital. Traditional woodburning stoves tend to top out at around 16kw depending on the style. The Villager Duo 14 would give you 14.4kw nominal on wood and up to 16kw on smokeless coal. The old Villager A flat Wood will give up to 16kw on wood but is not that advanced technically. Have recently rebuilt a couple that were 30 years plus old. A

Pm me your e mail address and I will send you an exploded parts drawing, if you can e mail me a pic of the front of it to [email protected] that would be helpfull, you can then tell me exactly what you need and I can cost it up. I thought you wanted the plate on top of the firebricks, now it sounds like you want the stove back panel, I would suggest that water coming down the chimney has rusted it out. In that case the stove is likely to be scrap. Suggest you strip it out and have a look before you order any parts for it. had a guy with a 1410 with a split side a few weeks ago, no cowl on the chimney, (boat stove), stove was a pile of rust inside and scrap. Thanks A

That is one hell of a tree, 30 cube of logs. take a day or two with a chainsaw and splitter to get into a state to go through a processor. I would agree to a figure per processed cube. Buying in cord ready for the processor is about £40 a cube. Less your hourly rate getting is cut up. 2 days at £200 = £400 to cut it up, say you got 20 cube out of it, so that would be £800 to but the cord in, less your £400, that makes £400 for 20 cube or £20 per processed cube. So I would offer £10 per processed cube and prepare to be negotiated up a bit of necessary. Then if your volume estimate is wrong then everybody is clear. A

Quality is good, made in Devon, lifetime casing warranty, technically not as advanced as Morso but its not at Morso prices. I also act for Villager !!. A

Got a new Morso one. A

Hi I am a Morso Center of Excellence, so should be able to advise. Morso make their stoves in the same place and to the same high standards as they always have done. There is no difference quality wise between a Squirrell made today and one made 50 years ago. (yes they have been around that long). In seven years selling several hundred Morso stoves the next problem will be the first one. So your room, about 30 cubic meters in volume, assume the insulation in the property is average and the rooms glass area is average and you have a single 700mm wide entry door then you will want 2kw of heat output to give you a 21 Dec C temperature rise in the room if its 1 deg C outside with the stove as the sole source of heat. If you are within a smoke control area then you will need a Defra approved stove if you wish to burn wood. 1410 in its day was cutting edge in design but that was a very long time ago and things have moved on. I would suggest that a 4kw stove would be more than sufficient so a Squirrel 1416 would be more than adequate, this is one of the latest generation of Squirrels and has a number of major improvements over 1410. For a more contempory look at 4kw then look at the Morso S11-42, this is technically one of the worlds most advanced 4kw stoves, not cheap though but a 40 year plus service life if you treat it well. If you are on a budget and are not in a SC area then look at the new Morso Swift, this is a Squirrel in all but name (parts are the same) but I am selling as ( as are others) at just under £600. It has a far larger glass area than the 1410. PM me if you want more info or advice on other brands. There are several 'British' brands that have moved production overseas and quality has suffered badly. A

Following on from the video on that new trailed processor did you note the pile of filled log bags stacked up outside. I have 150 tons of fresh felled to process that is still in the woods but have nowhere under cover to store it. Thinking about cutting it up now instead of March/April time. Do many of you stack bags outside and then take them straight to point of delivery maybe 12 months later ?. Do you sheet the pile ?, How does the UV affect the bags ?, what sort of nick are the contents in, Thanks A

2 points, A, the operator was peering along the length of the log to check how far the saw arm had advanced, dont think I would want to be bent like that all day. B, billets were huge, appreciate that a ring knife or maybe an 8 way would resolve that. Tajfun 400 is significantly faster though. A

That is some beast, probably the best of its type of have seen. A

Tom Knapp at East Haddon, he is a member here, Tom87 or similar I think. A

I might have miss read then, I thought you said 20 bore cartridges, sorry. As I am sure you know a 20 bore case will load into a 12 bore and wedge just down the barrel beyond the chamber, this allows a 12 bore cartridge to be loaded behind it. Then when the trigger is pulled the gun blows up as the barrel is blocked by the 20 bore cartridge. I use 28gr (7/8 oz) Impax in my lightweight SBS for the same reason, nice and easy on the shoulder. A

Should have let him do it, that would have stopped his game possibly for good. Anyway as others have said you carry right on doing what is right for you. I speak to my competitors fairly regularly and am on good terms with them. They sell at much lower prices than me, then I ask them about how much money they have made. A wise man once said keep your friends close, but your enemies closer still. A

Japa 700 would be a better processor, similar size and operating method, split ram fires automatically when a log hits a switch on the bottom of the trough in front of the ram. A