Alycidon

They dont sell, simple as. An average user will burn through £6 worth a night, I also see that Aldi have packs at under £3 made of what looks like old pallets, they do burn OK though, Had some briquettes made from coffee grindings in this week, nicely packed, small logs, burn easily and at least as hot as wood, but the ash volume is about 6 times that of wood in my stove. At £6 a bag of 6kg then not that cheap. I will be surprised of they sell, if not I have agreed a return. A

£120 less 5% VAT is about £114, gross profit if buying at £70 ( plus VAT) is £44, this is usually expressed as a percentage of the selling price not the cost price. So gross margin is about 36% off the top of my head, providing you are selling in sensible volumes per drop and not taking it to far then there is money there. So thats about the same as your timber margin. A

If you want a chimney fire then go right ahead and burn green wood, its the biggest cause of chimney fires. As advised, split it, stack it, leave it a few months then it should be OK. A

I am talking about stoves not water boilers. I have very limited knowledge of boiler stoves and even less about boilers. Boiler stoves by and large are multifuel, so can burn solid fuel and normally have old type control layouts, thus can be closed down. I sell about 3% boiler stoves, maybe less. My only experience with a boiler is my own pellet boiler at home, that runs hard when its running and is thermostatically controlled, no close down feature on it at all. A

Its all driven by CE regs and emissions requirements, these are in turn driven by the Kyoto agreement on green house gases. Emissions regs are currently covered by the 2014 regs, there are planned tighter sets coming through in 2020 and 2022. The 2022 regs if they do in fact come forward will effectively ban the burning on any solid fuel ( coal, smokeless fuels but NOT wood) in any appliance launched in 2022 or later. This is why most of the cutting edge stove builders have only been working on wood burning stoves for the last 5 years. So if you want an old design stove than is able to be closed down do it soon while you still can. A

I go in there a bit, green waste just goes into a hole in a wall but they dont seem to bother to much about 'trade' waste. A

Agreed. I have been done once in 46 years of driving or thereabouts, 1973, 49 in a 30, late for work, bloody stupid. Mini did well to get to 49 though !!. Big cars whizzing past me on a pavement at 40mpg or more in my local 30 zone are a major hazard to all. Worst are what I call pocket rockets, little Corsa size cars driven at max speed undertaking all the while, swerving in and out of traffic etc, am about to put a camera in the front on my Defender as a safety precaution. Try Coventry ring road at about 10.30pm tonight, thats where I will be, unfortunately. A

Because with a modern design of stove they are fitted with a terciery air system, this is fully open all the while thus preventing the stove being able to be closed down as you would with an older design. This requirement is driven by CE regulations on minimum efficiency and reduced emissions. Both take a big hit when a stove is closed down. Temperature control is done by the volume of fuel loaded and the log size and not the volume of air supplied. Air dried logs at 10%-15% are ideal, I sent out some KD tonight, when it came in internal MC was about 4%, now its about 7%. Thats fine for most people but I have had one complaint to date that it burnt to fast. A

Masseys are a better option, something like a 165 would be fine. A

Crate sizes given by sellers are usually the EXTERNAL crate sizes and include the pallet itself. A

Newer designs of stove tend to have a double baffle plate above the fire, this holds the heat in the stove longer and thus helps efficiency, but it needs more pull from the flue to pull the gases around the double baffle. So an older design of stove would work acceptably well. Having said that I dont know if the Burley has a double baffle but if you can stick a direct air kit onto it. A

Suspect its a pressure issue if the flue is clear, has anyone done a flue draft test, thats the first step. If the room is effectively airtight the air pressure within the room can be below that at the top of the flue thus overcoming the natural pull from the flue. Fitting a direct air kit would alleviate this and is always recommended providing the stove is on an outside wall. A

The problem is paying £60 a ton for maybe 100-200 tons of cord if you can get it. Some like me have moved to imported over the last two or three years but the dip in the pound has made me think about maybe upgrading my processor and starting to prep more of my own. I have a guy near me selling at £60 a cube for decent hardwood but that is seasoned, god knows how he can afford to do that unless someone paid him to take away some large oversize. A

Either are fine for 95% of normal off road stuff, had GGs on my Discos, went for ever ( 130,000 miles a set), got BFGs on a Defender, they were new on when we bought it at 30k, just changed them at 180k. A

Leaves gone brown is exactly whats happened, all the other sites are sandy and free draining, maybe need to take some cuttings and grow them on, but that would be disappointing to have those die as well. Not looked at the root balls yet, just no time to get there at present. A

Bare root. suspect its a soil/light issue, probably the latter. Will try again in a few years once the Ash etc in there have got taller. They do grow OK under 50 year planted trees or right on the edge of younger woods. A

Unless the pound comes back to its previous level buying in from abroad in crates has now lost its edge, therefore I will probably be processing my own again for 17-18 as opposed to buying in ready crated, a

To improve the game holding ability, I run a driven pheasant shoot. A

Thats about right, but I do take my blades to the sharpener. A

Evening all, This spring I planted 50 Laurels, these were about 2 feet high in 4 different woods I look after. In three of the woods with sandy soil I lost an odd one but most are growing on nicely. In one wood I have a problem. About an acre is size its on a steep hill which is a knob of heavy clay, it was planted with Ash, Beech, oak and a few birch, 50 or so Kent Cobnuts at the lower edge, surrounded by a quickthorn hedge that was laid 2 years ago. Wood has been planted about 30 years. I had planted laurels in there some 5 years ago, those right on top of the hill grew well but most of the rest just died immediately. The ones that grew were in heavy soil but had better light. Having laid the previously planted laurels to improve ground cover I planted another 25 further down the bank, generally on the edge of the trees and the Cobnuts. Trees are 25 - 30 feet or so tall, and around 8 yards apart, canopy is reasonably open. These were watered in well and then left to their own devices. I visited in June, all were well, went again this week and only found one alive of the 12 I checked. No sign of any damage, leaves had gone brown and withered away. Is this a soil and or light issue ?, the soil being clay will hold water so I doubt its a water issue, if it was those in the other woods planted at the same time in sandy soil would have died faster. In fairness they are under far taller trees but have competition with elders. While there are badgers present they have not damaged the plants which were surrounded by rabbit guards, no deer much and no sign of browsing. Any thoughts ?, suspect its a light issue. Thanks A

5.1 kw or above need vent, agreed, 5.0 kw and below then currently this depends on the age of the property and the air tightness. It is though better to install a vent especially if you can install a direct air supply from outside into the stove. It removes any issues with differing air pressure between the room and the chimney top preventing the stove from pulling properly. At the next review of the building regs I am expecting compulsory vents on all properties where double glazing is fitted. AT the moment this is advisory only under the British Standards but these are not a legal statute. 250mm logs will fit 95% of stoves out there, 200mm will fit them all as far as I know. A

Morso 3112 Badger. Aarrow Farringdon S Both tick all your boxes, and are Defra approved, Farringdon is a dedicated wood burner and is right up there with Morso quality wise, stainless cool touch door handle with wood handle option. Farringdon is one of the first stoves in the Uk to conform to the proposed 2022 emissions regs. The Aarrow Ecoburn 5 and Ecoburn 5 widescreen, Morso 04 and Esse 100 are also worthy of consideration but none can accept direct air. All now have cool touch handles of one sort or another. A

The problem burning wet wood is two fold, A, When you put log onto a fire or stove the first thing teh energy in that log is used for is to evaporate the water remaining, then the remaining energy is converted into heat, so dry logs = a lot more heat. B, Wood when it burns gives of gasses that contain creosote, to combust these gases a minimum temperature is needed, if all your energy is being used to evaporate water then there is not enough energy left to get the fire hot enough to combust the creosote. This of course is still present in the flue gases, it gets into the chimney where is cools further and condenses, this then deposits creosote onto the sides of the chimney which is combustible. Then another day when you get a nice hot fire burning your chimney catches light. Burning wet wood is by far the biggest cause of chimney fires, anything over 25% is far to wet, soft at 20% is not to bad, hard needs to be below 16% for optimum use in a stove. A

From the other side of the fence we do prefer our users to use Kiln dried and usually ( but not always alas) they have an acceptable moisture level. I get called to look at stoves that wont burn or wont pull 2 or 3 times a month, usually its wet wood, occasionally to large a pieces of wood, sometimes both. I have never been called to look at a stove burning kiln dried products. Remember the 45-25 generation by and large have no experience of building fires, cannot tell species of wood apart and have no idea what so ever how to tell if wood is dry and ready to burn. Most buy the cheapest crap they can get hold of the moan to the stove supplied when it does not burn. A

As principally a stove retailer with secondary firewood interests I have found that a 100mm average log diameter is the best for optimum flame patterns, you must have turbulance within the firebox and 2 or 3 smaller logs burn far better than one big one. If you have a stove yourself try it and see. Thats why I like smaller logs than are usually supplied. This machine makes a consistant log, quite a bit of kindling yes but probably no more than you would get with a ring knife unless it has some sort of self centering system. The seperation system works well and I suspect exajerates the amount of waste coming off as most would go into the main processed log bag normally. Village idiot, what sort of cost are you talking about ?, sounds like it might be in Transaw territory. But I feel the major downside of this system is speed, 3 passes for one round slows things down compared to other machines processing 450mm logs through a ring knife. How much cord in a typical load cannot be processed by a 350mm machine, in my experience not that much. A