scotspine1

Reg, any more pics of the LD? any idea when it'll be available?

Blakes, if your asking questions like this and the tree is as big as you made it sound, its probably not gonna be a good idea to attempt the removal using a crane without an experienced climber and crane operator who has done treework.

I blame the 130:001_tongue: if you'd owned a Transit, Cabstar or a Jap pick-up you probably wouldn't have ventured out into the blizzards. Probably not the best thing to say Dean, especially when you've just trashed his wall. .

Nice tree, nice work.

On removals that require rigging, you don't need to go as high as you would for deadwooding or crown reduction. This pic was from a Beech removal, my anchor point for the whole tree was the union below the red X. When rigging you can take the branches above you out in long lengths so no need to climb up so high.

Arbtalk is the closest thing the UK arb industry has to a think tank. Hundreds of professional tree surgeons from all over the UK and beyond discussing all aspects of treework, if there are no representatives on here from your 'interested parties' then their credibilty will be reduced over time until no-one will take any notice of them whatsoever. At least Colin Bashford is representing the ISA, whose representing the AA, AFAG, NPTC and LANTRA?

Tom d was right, they're coastal Redwoods - Sequoia sempervirens. The owner had all the branches cut off the trees because he was concerned that they would shed big limbs onto the houses/gardens below. The tree regenerated sprouts along the entire length. Redwoods have amazing regenerative qualities - take a small cutting of sempervirens and plant it in wet sand and it'll grow. .

The powerlines are on the otherside of the street, it just looks like they're close. 'regenerated' is the big clue as to the species. They were de-limbed but not for being too close to the powerlines.

No Tony, but your on the right track - this is not the species typical shape. They are 100-120ft tall. The ability to regenerate is a big clue. Italian Cypress was good guess.

North America and yes they do go all the way to the ground. Not Fake Plastic trees or Telephone masts. These trees are real, but there's a story to them, clue? they are from the same region as Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar). Anymore guesses?

Anyone want to have a guess at IDing these two? [/img]

Thanks people, very good info all round. Good to hear the Franco Belge Belfort is good, thats at the top of our list at the moment, nice looking little stove and at a decent price as well. We're still looking though, probably gonna be a few weeks yet before we decide.

Arbocop, you should take Reg up on his above offer. It'd be a good test of your abilities and Reg could video it and we could all judge your performance and decide wether or not you need a refresher course, what say you to that idea?

Thats a nice looking stove Tom, your Gran must be well happy. I agree the bigger window is much better for seeing the flames and using longer logs but we have a narrow fireplace. It'd have to sit out from the fireplace and it'd take up too much floorspace which is limited as it is. Gonna have to go for a narrow shaped stove.

I've been warned off buying UK built stoves by a customer who has 3 working stoves in his house - Jotul, Hunter which he doesnt rate (build quality) and a Vermont Castings which is very good apparently.

Yeah, saw a working Morso Squirrel yesterday, nice little stove very warm even with a couple of pine logs.

Thanks for the link, dont like the style though...too industrial looking, they even have a pic on their site of a down and out whose just turned up at their yard trying to get some heat and the stove aint even on!

Going to be buying a new woodburning stove soon, never had one before only open fires/gas fires so need some advice. Thinking of somewhere between 4.5 to 5 kw and it wont have a boiler. Anyone know anything about Jotul, Franco Belge or Morso? Only looked at these three so far. Any other recomendations, general advice or pics of your stoves would be good. Cheers TC

Its been a great success story. All the best for the future.

Very good video, thanks for posting. Just out of interest, why did the guy doing the pine not start by removing the lower limbs first? and.... why not use the cherry picker for the pine?

Thats the most strangest video I have ever seen about anything ever.

The pros and cons of coronet cutting, forced veteranisation of trees and veteran tree and ancient woodland management, contact Monkey'd here at Arbtalk.

He was tied in round the limb below the cut with his flipline side D to side D which had a micrograb as an adjuster. But he had his main line in above on the main stem which was hanging loose. The main line saved him but he was hanging like a dead dog after the big limb split. He had to be rescued from 40ft. The rescuer was a climber of 15 years experience.

Mester, I worked for a company in the US, their safety guy was an Australian former climber. He had to retire from climbing. He was taking out a large lateral limb about 12 inches diam 35 ft long, he was tied into his side Ds, as he went through with the top cut the huge branch split and pulled him in so severly that he crushed his internal organs and was within minutes of death if it werent for an air ambulance. He has to wear a colostomy bag for the rest of his life.

Always move to your front D or front connection point when taking out a big top or large lateral branch that your tied into. When you are attached to the front D you have moved yourself outside the loop. If the top splits or the large lateral branch splits and your tied into your side Ds your internal organs will be crushed leaving you using a colostomy bag for the rest of your life and your back will more than likely be broken so add a wheelchair to that as well. Someone has made the point about boring a heavily leaning stem and cutting the holding strap to take a top out as a safe method when climbing, this isn't the case. If you make a bore cut on a heavily leaning stem there is a chance the back of the tree will split downwards before you have a chance to cut the holding strap. When the stem splits downwards the top will go over and split part of the top will flip you and your flipline/climbing line off with the stem as well sending you hurtling toward the ground as your life flashes before your eyes. Be very careful when using the boring cut on a leaning stem when climbing - it can go hellishly wrong. .