Tom D

After looking at the 'justifiable' thread I think it's worth discussing the use of MEWPs in tree work. I think the ICOP is based on data from outside the arboricultural sector. With only a tiny amount of aerial tree work taking place from a MEWP the statistics for MEWP related accidents can't be compared with those for tree work from a rope and harness. Only if we knew the number of accidents per tree worked on could we really make an objective decision on the safest option. Just using statistics gathered from the use of MEWPs in other industries isn't acceptable as there are a few significant factors which make their use in tree work significantly more dangerous. For example using MEWPs to change street light bulbs is very different to using one on a sectional dismantle. Street lights usually grow out of level firm surfaces, trees do not. This has issues for the stability of the platform. Secondly when cutting off limbs or sectioning timber there is a risk of the piece striking, or worse, snagging the basket. Again seldom an issue in construction. Let's hear your thoughts on this. I don't mean let's slag off MEWPs. I mean let's consider all options, good and bad.

10 ton I reckon..

No Stevie would have asked the client if he had got any other prices and then dismantled it for £6499 lol

I always think very carefully about recommending expensive add ons to a client, such as cranes, mewps, and tree decay detection equipment. Its nice to offer all these services but you need to be sure that the client is willing to pay for them. So when a client rings you up and asks about the condition of their oak tree you might, offer a full written survey with PICUS and then an air spade investigation of the roots, then you suggest a reduction to be done with a mewp and a crane to lift the stuff away from the crown, followed by some air spade compaction alleviation and a mulch mat, the bill for all this stuff comes to £6500.... Then Stevie Blair comes along and dismantles it for 1200! Who's to blame??

We have been 'contractor b' on many occasions, a risk assessment, or in this case a method statement can justify what ever method that the contractor deems fit. AA Techie is correct in that justifying work at height is an important part of the WAH process, however in tree work a Mewp is rarely justified. On one memorable occasion we quoted for a large job with several big dismantles and some pruning, the consultant who specced the works was also a contractor, he owned a large mewp, he specced that all the trees needed to be felled with a mewp, this was not really justified, he was just trying to win the job to take them all down, as all the other contractors who didn't own a mewp would have to pay to hire one. We justified our own working methods, and won the job, we either climbed or felled all the trees. Its down to each individual contractor to justify their own methods, if you loose out to someone who comes up with their own cheaper method, then thats just business. In 15 years of tree work I have only used a mew on a handful of occasions, and nearly always for long lines of crown lifting or removing ivy off buildings, only once for a dangerous tree, and that was for someone else job, personally I would have climbed the tree...

There's so many things that could be, and as you are susceptible to anxiety, just get it checked and find out. You will be much better knowing whats going on than worrying about it.

The ported saws are definitely thirstier, but who cares..... You don't buy a Ferrari for its mpg.

I must be as dumb as you then, I have two 362's and while they are decent saws they really aren't in the same league as a 560, in heavy wood or snedding. The dolly 6100, is about the same performance as the 362, I have one of these as well. None of them are as good as my ported 357.

200t 254 357 385 660

With the exception of the T540 576 I have used or own all of these saws. My thoughts are The 201t is no better than a good 200t, especially a ported one. The 550 is MILES better than the 261 which is an awful saw, feels soft and floppy in the hand and ours has spent most of its life broken, we fix it and then it breaks again. Its currently broken. The 550 is however no better the the 346 or my ported 254 IMO, both of our 550's have had software problems and had to go in to be re-programmed. The 560 is also way better than the 362, we have 2 362's and a 560 one of my guys also has his own 560, there is no comparison in performance, The 362's are not a bad saw, about on a par with the Dolmar 6100 although I think I prefer the dolly, they have not been particularly reliable, both are currently broken, but so is the 560, (chain brake band). The 441 is not a bad saw but I prefer the 372, not much between them though. The 395 is a nice saw but so is the 660, I had a 385 which I loved dearly, but it was stolen, it was the most reliable saw I have had. I replaced it with a 390 which is pretty good, I have a 660 also which is nice, I think the 660 is hard to beat in the 90+cc category. I have used both the 3120 and the 880, I'm not that keen on either, (too heavy) and there's not many trees in the uk that can't be dealt with with a 660. Between the two however I'd take the 880....

Be cheaper to chip it 3 times with a 3" chipper, then its exactly right.

The idea is you tie a bit of string to the wire and yank it out in an emergency if using a static implement. or you could wire it into a stop switch on a processor for example...

Under the back window matty, on the outside, right hand side I think

Probably a wiring loom fault. Are the two switches next to each other?

And whats the difference between open and closed port? cheers

So can you improve it Spud?

Anyone got one? A friend of mine, (pro user) bought one 15 years ago and its still going strong, and its a nice little saw too. I saw one on eBay this afternoon and bought it on a whim for £100.... I might send it to spud. Anyway any of you saw nerds want to tell me all about it, I seem to remember its fairly similar in construction to the 357 but less cc and no xp??

I'd like to try an echo, but If i needed a new 50cc saw I'd port a 346. My ported 254 takes loads of pulls to start from cold but starts with one pull every time once warm. It will out cut a 550 and has a great pick up too, and this is a 20+year old saw, the 346 has side chain tensioning and a better chain brake, hence that would be my choice.

I have heard of people running harvester chain on 88's, never tried it though..

Insurance companies are very jumpy about this but actually the chances of you being on a shrinkable clay are slim, look on the maps at the british geological survey (on line) and see if you are, if you aren't then the trees pose no problem.

Lol, I'd like to see a pic of the tree..

No I didn't fell it, came from up north apparently. All out of one tree I think..

I have some untreated douglas on a log store door that I made 12 years ago, it is a lovely silver now. Hopefully this will do the same.

Spanish slate, welsh would have broken the bank... there's still a lot to do, including the down pipe.. I'm leaving it natural by the way.

Thats how good I am!