Tom D

Sticking my neck out, I'd say the outer foot or so was white and healthy, the rest was darker but still hard to the touch, there was a small pocket of soft / hollow in the middle. Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

Are they the only pics? Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

Don't worry Robert, I don't bother with chapter 8 either....he he. Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

Only prob will be doing all those ripping and boring cuts with your blunt saw. Nice idea though. Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

first thing, you don't get it on oak... just american oaks like Q rubra, I know tha symptoms in host shrubs like rhododendeon and the like but not in trees, I think it would show as dieback and weeping bark. Some one will be along shortly...

Thats the same thing, a ring strop is a prussik loop. And yes you are a dinosaur, do you use a bowsaw as well or have you discovered the ms200.

There are a few industries where supply of staff easily outstrips demand. There are many interns working in the Media / film / Television industry who work for nothing just to get a start, the fashion industry is the same. Also the antiques business, all the big auction houses like christies and sotherbys have staff who work full time for nothing. Even when these peiople are taken on the salaries are very low. This is why these businesses are dominated by very posh people, the poor simply cant afford to work for nothing while living in london, you need very rich parents for that.

Worth milling if you get your hands on any, one of the most rot resistant timbers there is. Great for weatherboarding and shingles.

Thuja plicata can easily do 200 foot! big timber tree in western usa and canada. I have seen them in the uk at 150foot +

All this legislation is aimed at forestry, in a conifer plantation there is no way the voulme of the brash would be taken into account, no reason why this should be the case for hardwoods. I Remember this from my Tech cert. I am 95% sure that I am right. Think about it, if you class branchwood logs as "timber" where to you start or stop counting? 10"? 8"? 3"? It would be unworkable. There must be some way of looking it up. I can't be bothered tbh but i'm sure i'm right.

Remember there has to be 5 cube of millable timber, which is actually quite a lot. I personally would get stuck in.

never seen one in a tree, but like you I have seen hundreds on the wing, our garden is full of them every summer night. They must live somewhere!

Definately, assuming that the other guy has soime insurance to claim on. I hope he mends quickly.

Get some kumho KL71's John, great ride and better in snow and mud than a non unidirectional tyre sucg as the bfg, Quieter too I have been well impressed with mine. I cant vouch for longevity but they are a well recognised brand so shouldn't be bad.

Mine was an X reg with the old NA 2.5 transit deisel, that may have been 70hp come to think of it? I don't know. I had a few engine problems, but it was a transit engine anyway so could easily have happened with a transit too. If I was in your shoes I'd get one.

I tried it for a while a few years ago, for me it was too grippy, its called an icicle because it can grip on one, or a tapered spar. Its a cool hitch, and as a conventional hitch to use on a long cord with no pulley I'd certainly rate it higher than a prussic or blakes. with a pulley or HC ther are several better alternatives.

They are guttless and slow but they get you there, 90hp is low but should be fine for a 6" chipper and a full box. They are lower geared than a transit so will pull better for equivalent Hp, the downside being that it will be screaming on the motorway. I ran 1 for years, nothing wrong with them and as you say you will get a newer and lower milage one for the same money when compared to a transit. God they are slow though.

Nice work, were you having to land all the bits in that narrow area?

You've got balls Tony! I'm impressed, what were the circumstances? Stand alone trees or part of a mixed group? Have I cut big leylandii? Yes, I think you will struggle to find a tree surgeon who hasn't. Have I seen neighbourly rows over them? Yes, regularly. Have I made loads of money off them? Yes:thumbup: One interesting leylandii fact for you: because leylandii is an intergeneric hybrid it is sterile and can not re-produce by seed. Thank god. I sometimes get people claiming thet their "leylandii" are setting seed, however these are always either Thuja's or Lawson's cypresses. Good luck with your project. A couple of pics...

You could try putting your prices up! Seriously I often see posts on here from guys who claim not to be able to afford quite cheap pieces of kit, like climbing kit, harnesses etc. If you can't affprd do spend a few hundred quid on basic kit you are not charging enough. Simples. Even a new chainsaw isn't that dear in the grand scheme of things.

Its worth noting that the moisture content of the timber varies as the seasons change, I would suggest that this would have a bigger effect on the pliability of a limb than temperature alone.

That was me, the man in question is not only an inspector but an instructor, ie he trains and asseses other loler inspectors specifically for arb gear. I see no reason to throw out 5yo+ kit on the basis of 1 neglected example out of many thousands out there. the sheath on these strops is easily examined by the climber as part of his pre-climb inspection. I had a look at my 2003 yale 3m wirecor line today, I managed to expose the core and found that it was NOT rusty. The zinc was intact and although dull looked fine, the wire is still evenly flexible allong its length and I am happy for myself and my employees to continue using it. It will be retired soon due to the poor condition of the sheath however. As for the broken one in question, here are my observations: The position of the break is so close to the end of the line that I would suspect the core has been kinked at that point by being chockered onto something and loaded excessively. I can only speculate as to what. The resulting kink ought to have been "feelable" through the sheath. I would be very interested to see the last loler inspection for this peice of kit, any chance of scanning it and posting it up? Having inspected mine and found no rusting despite its age the rusty condition of the core of this one can only be down to two things, exposure to corrosive chemicals or a change in the manufacturing from bare to galvanised wire. The chap from yale didn't mention this so I suspect its not the case. I just don't buy the theory that this kind of corrosion could occour under "normal" conditions, mine has been used in the rain, often, it has been put away wet, often, it has been "lost" on jobs and left out in the weather for a week at a time before being stuffed back into its bag. In short it has had a hard life and yet shows nothing like the corrosion on this one. There is a lot about this one we just don't know, even its owner doesn't know for sure that it has not been used inappropriately by employees while his back is turned. He may have aqquired it second hand for all we know. There is in fact an awful lot about this thing that we don't know and never will.

Well he's west of somewhere..

My old man sells deck mowers from 4' to 40', you need a tractor of course, but a wee kubota or something could be picked up cheap. I used one on my wee tractor to cut some grass for a client, the grass was 3' high and really a flail job but the mower left a really nice finish. They dont collect as they are the mulching kind.

Just looked again and the grab on yours is not identical to mine which would suggest that yours is older than 9 years.