Les Cork

You must include the McCulloch Power Mac6A the Worlds 1st [are you watching mr stihl] 6lb weight top handle chainsaw. It was light, powerful and many a tree surgeon learnt their trade in the 70's with one of these. Pete Simmonds of Simmonds Saws in Petworth has a couple in working order. Note MS200T today is 3.6kg without fuel, guide bar and chain thats 7.92lb plus what you can't do without. Now have we developed that far ?

Check out my avatar ! 8 men in the Gub shoulder to shoulder now thats a tree, pity it was felled probably over 3000 yrs old

I'm that Oregon Rep and i gave out hundreds to dealers and saw users. What year do you think it is ? the clue is the saw ? I have loads of old chain saw videos as well some good some not so good including Dalga's from the early 80's filmed up North somewhere, i'll ask Steve if i can get them put on here somehow.

Try Selectokil from Detling nr Maidstone in kent, they basically invented the spot gun applicator back in the late 70's based on a phillips auto worm drencher used in sheep farming in Australia. You might be lucky, although i know they have reduced the company over the past few years. I worked for them back then and helped develop the gun with the Forestry commision for treatment around young trees in areas in remote areas. John Talbot was the owner and inventer and one of the highest regarded pesticide experts in the World.

Al I've worked for three of the Worlds largest chainsaw mfg companies and in all that time have seen only a handful of hot saws in Europe at shows and demo's. The trade loves to hear and see shear power yet it never caught on in the UK albeit only a few bring out the odd machine at the largest shows. Several years ago myself and a few colleagues fired up a Solo Twin at a show which brought a lot of attention, unfortunately this also brought the wrath of the HSE [Health & Safety Executive] as unlike the USA in shows like Louisville where you can try everything, we cannot expose trained operators to machines that they already make their livelihood from at shows ! We are not allowed to do most things you take for granted at shows, which i guess is a big reason hot saws aren't shown like they used to be back in the late 70's and early 80's. Have you ever heard a tuned BP1 flat out or an 850 promac with an expansion chamber exhaust , jetted out and running on 10% octane booster with a 28" bar running custom skip tooth chain with the rakers taken off and sharpened to 37%, i'd like to see that against an 066 or 088 today. Send us some links to the US racing associations websites.

Hi have you seen this http://www.oregonchain.be/arborol/video/video.htm

Hi Check out http://www.bullerjan.co.uk these have a huge range .

Hi have you seen this http://www.oregonchain.be/arborol/video/video.htm if anyone wants a free sample it can be organised. Don't knock it before you try it, and the good news is a 5lt can makes 25lt's as it's mixed with 1:4 parts water. Also there have been some studies of the effects of chain oil on protective trousers see the link below. http://www.lib.unb.ca/Texts/JFE/bin/get5.cgi?directory=January99/&filename=sullman.html

you'll need a 158ATMD009 pr 168/178/188/208 version Oregon bar, have you got a lot of stumps to cut out ?

Before you buy go and try the new Oregon Supercomfort and Advanced new trousers. You will be surprised at both quality and price.

When a saw dies in the cut it is too lean, either from fuel pick up or carb adjustment being out. Does this saw have a normal Walbro carb ? or a copy? nevertheless if you have low and high adjustment screws once you have started the saw and let it warm up get yourself a butt of wood and crosscut into it, now with a screw driver on the high jet try backing it off and or increasing the high jet until you feel the saw pull better thru the wood. A slight 4 stroke effect i.e below max revs should provide the best torque, a leaned saw cuts much slower although it screams louder. If the idle is good next check the revs in all positions of the saw. What fuel did you use with what oil mix ? have you checked the chain ? and finally when you were cutting and it stopped until you lifted the saw were you cutting either in compression or tension pinching the chain/bar. There are many who remember that only 15 years ago there were many other chainsaw manufacturers who held significant market share and that the big two make some great saws and they too also make some not so great models along the way. McCulloch today is regarded as much the same as your saw yet only back in the 50's 60's and until mid 70's were no1 pro saw Worldwide. Finally have you gone back to Hutt imports they might help you as it's in their interest.

see http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf pages 30-31 for some easy to follow steps. This tech manual is used by many NPTC instructors in a book form. Most large dealers today supply both loops and reels, the equation of how much you can save depends firstly on how many chains you are buying. i.e 3/8 .050 a 91VX100R 100ft of 1640 drive links will make up 32 [32,8] 50 drive link chains for say an MS200T 14" first get your loop cost from your dealer then the reel cost, a spinner and breaker will set you back £100 and needs to be off set against total time for real useage value. If you work with three saws will you need three types/pitch/guage of chain so costs go up and you weigh up the difference. Labour is your decision, wet days can be chain making and chain maintenance on average you can make a chain up in 5 minutes, when experienced the fastest i've known in 27 yrs in the industry is 1 minute 35 seconds timed. One secret is squirt a drop of oil on the rivet head before you spin it and don't be afraid to stop and check it remains free running on the chain link and the rivet has filled the tie strap. Many dealers tell me a lot of contractors don't sharpen on the job now they just replace. The different chains available today are priced according to their quality of steel and technical features, a cheap chain brand may still cut wood but doesn't have the oil flow features and antivibration features of say Oregon chain. These help protect and pro-long the life of your bar, chain and sprocket so are cost effective long term. Cheap chain has it's niche and then theres Multicut triple chromed chain which last's 4-5 times longer. Making up chain isn't rocket science and as another on this thread said can be therapeutic.

Hi the chain you need is 91VG060E for guarded chain or 91VX060E for un-guarded chain the VX chain has an aggressive cutter which cuts approx 15% faster than normal. The code PJ is used from the Blount China factory which services the Asia markets, and is not normally found here in the UK.

Hi the bar is a KO41 mount as it's .325 so the number you need is 180SLGKO41 if 18" or 160SLGKO41 if 16" the chain is 95VP .325 050, 20BPX will also fit but takes a larger bite which slows down the saw as it's power was designed for narrow kerf chain. Any Oregon dealer can order you this.

Hi, has anyone shown you Multicut chain from Oregon ? it allows you to cut longer in dirty wood applications and still file as normal. This may help your groundie when having to deal with contaminated cord wood and brash rolled in mud. Muliticut is triple chromed and available in most sizes from M91VX,M95VP,M21LP,M22LP,M73LP to M75LP. Sharpening chain seems to be easily accepted by some and avoided like the plague by others, the "watch the chip size reduce old method" then 3 rubs of a file across all teeth works and has done for 60 years. Of course damaging teeth causes extra filing and spare chains then become cost effective whilst on the job. The solution for sharpening off the saw without using a chain bench grinder is to use a filing clamp in a vise available in 12" & 14" Oregon also make these. If you are cutting hard woods use semi chisel or chipper chain like BP & now BPX and DP these are more forgiving of poor filing and offer longer sharp life before filing, soft wood cutting is best with LP chisel chain for speed of cut. Rained offf days spent maintaining your saw and sharpening chains is investing for future jobs the number of costly repairs due to loose fasteners could be reduced if operators checked equipment daily. How many on this forum had old hand teachers who made them sharpen, oil and check each night before they went home as it was nearly always still dark when they started out the next day and on a frosty morning they rather have a coffee in their hands first things than a file and scrench. I know several contractors who if an employee puts a saw in the ground is made to either make good and or pay for it. Hope this may be of help to you.