Lancstree
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Everything posted by Lancstree
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Its the vision 500 with smokeless baffle (if that makes any odds)
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The answer I got was from clearview themselves. The dealer was non the wiser. I'm going to send clearview an email to get a better explanation. Thanks county 4x4
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Just been on the phone to clearview. It was explained that the door has intentional curvature to increase the strength. I was still concerned about being able to slide paper down the back of the door when it is shut and in response was told that the important tight seals should be at the sides and bottom of the door. I put a straight edge on the back of the door and used calipers to measure how much it was bowed and it read 5mm. Anyone else with a clearview want to check theirs?
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I'm not sure if the door is adjustable. I will get onto the supplier or fitter about it. When I open the door and look down the barrel so to speak, it seems like the door is slightly bowed. i.e. the gap is around the middle so it is sealing tight at the sides. Its a new stove
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Just noticed while peering down on my clearview stove that there is a small gap between the rope seal and the stove frame when the door is fully closed. Is this normal or would I expect the rope to seal airtight to the stove. The gap is big enough to allow a piece of paper to slide through.
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I've been burning green ash to supplement the limited dry wood I have at the moment and it burns really well. You don't seem to get the sizzling sound that other green wood makes either. My moisture meter reads around 33% for green ash which is quite low compared to some other wood.
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Will have to get some dryer stuff in. A lot of mine is around 30
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My moisture meter just arrived today and I've been sticking it in everything! Got one of those from Amazon for about 12 quid. I know that the ideal moisture content is between 15-20% but what percentage would you not go beyond? I'm thinking 25% isn't too bad.
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What are you burning in your stove this winter 2010
Lancstree replied to firewoodman's topic in Firewood forum
Just put a bit of ash on I cut down today and it burns a treat. Am I going to knacker my new stove and flue? -
Bump! I got this program ages ago and use it every day. My friend tried to get it recently and can only get a trail version then you have to subscribe. Whats this about, are we lucky ones that got the free version? He said something about it requesting a password.
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I was given a bag of split pitch pine and I think it came out of an old factory. Is it safe to burn? I put one little log on just to see what it was like and it went like crazy so I crapped myself. I think there must be some oil residue in there or something. Has it knackered my stove or flue?
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Its going really well now I've had it a couple of weeks. I've got a thermometer at the living room/kitchen border and it sits at 21 degrees when its been going a couple of hours. The heat filters through the house if I leave doors open so I'm happy. Its a little cooler in the bedrooms upstairs and in the front dining room but I will be spending most of the winter nights near the fire anyway. If I stay up quite late and fill her up I easily get an overnight burn and can chuck a log on in the morning. Perhaps I would have preferred the flue coming out of the back. Can you change the flue outlet to the rear one if wanted? I never get foggy glass and never needed more than one match to light it!
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Yes I do find the blocks burn well. Its the lats that spark but I suppose that's not much of a problem in a stove as it would be on an open fire
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Are they any good for kindling and general burning? What sort of timber is used in making pallets? I've burned a few bits but they seem to pop a good bit. Any negative affects on stove or flue? Obviously the untreated ones I'm on about.
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I've got a pair of blaklader craftsman gloves which are warm, waterproof and reasonably grippy. The downside is that they aren't the most dexterous fit. Kept my hands warm through last winter but I need another pair now.
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I know how you feel with the stove hunting as I jumped from one decision to the next. All I can say is get a quality fire like clearview, morso, jotul, dunsley, town and country etc. If you really want to enhance the performance get the flue lined and chimney insulated. However I think this reduces the warm chimney breast effect.
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Not a splitting maul but I was looking at screwfix today and came across these little things. Seem to have a lot of good reviews. Maybe something I might get in the Christmas stocking! Roughneck Wood Grenade Log Splitter - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys
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these timbers are in a rough pile so some are not in contact with the ground. I would imagine this would help to season them. I was splitting some dead alder today that came over in last weeks gales. Some of it split really clean and other bits frothed up around the axe on contact so to be on the safe side I'll season it all.
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I'm new to wood burning having recently installed a fire and I'm wondering what the convention is on burning dead wood. Does dead wood still need to season or can some be burned immediately if it is clean and dry. I have access to some timbers that have been left in big lengths on a grassy and gravelly surface for a couple of years and I'm hoping this will see me through this winter until my split stuff seasons for next year. Any recommendations or advice?
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clearview solution 400. supposed to be very efficient.
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ace! where abouts was this?
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I think its just because I pulled out the airwash slider which started the flaming and my mobile takes a rubbish picture. I'm burning dead hawthorn and ash
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My new clearview. Getting a beech fire surround made soon
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I can understand the physics behind oxygen requirements for fire and hence the rush you get when you open the door slightly but I would have thought that with warm air rising through the flue, oxygen couldn't descend to feed it. Anyhow its bloody windy and I've a feeling tomorrow is going to be busy! Sorry to derail the thread!
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no problem with the draw even on a still day
