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Lancstree

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Everything posted by Lancstree

  1. Managed to get the lock barrel out with a hammer and chisel without damaging it! Got a replacement part on the way so it's a result. It's a bit easy to get them out but it serves it's job as a theft deterrant.
  2. No joy. It's an old one hence the key snapping i suppose. Will try wiggling the clamp which is a good idea and not tried yet. There's no key debris stuck in there. This one doesn't pivot unfortunately. Tried using the half key to turn it back but no joy. Will try the locksmith before any drilling. A tow bar specialist said he can knock the barrel out without damaging it from underneath
  3. it could be unbolted which would get me in the boot. doesn't help with the lock though
  4. Aye. That's going to have to wait till after Easter but just wondered if there was a hack for it
  5. Anybody know owt about locks? I've recently picked up a second hand Thule bike rack that fits onto my tow bar. It locks on with a key. It came with two keys, one was already broken in half (but no debris in the lock) and then I noticed the other one was bent after a few uses. Upon closer inspection it was cracked and no longer worked. At this point the lock was in the open position and for the sake of curiosity I tried to lock it with the half key and it worked. The problem is that it's stuck in the lock position now. I got a replacement key from halfords, which won't go in far enough to operate it. It has been blown out with an air line and lubricated but still no joy. It seems that when I turned it with the half key it has left the mechanism out of line. Is there a trick to get this back to working? I can't open the boot of my car and obviously I can't use my tow bar for anything else!
  6. Tying bundles of bean poles from lime epicormic cuttings? I'm thinking of what would be easy for volunteers and not come loose. We'll perhaps just use large zip ties.
  7. Need heated gloves too eh! Good idea getting a variety of battery sizes. I've heard that our husky batteries are not holding charge as well anymore. Any experience of this with the stihls?
  8. I take it you got the bigger battery size?
  9. Of course. Thanks very much
  10. Can anyone ID this? Looks like on Ash. I didn't take the pictures. Putting up on behalf of someone from a Facebook group. Doesn't look to me like daldinia or perenniporia
  11. The main advantage of the sun is that you can feed slack through with one hand without having to pull the rope away from yourself. This makes coming back from a limb walk very safe as you keep your weight on the rope
  12. Agreed we definetely ought to have a different loler inspector as this one is non-arb. He's from an insurance company and has no idea how our tree kit is used. We've tried to get an arb specific loler examiner but the insurance company insist they do our inspection. It could be MBS the lad was telling me on the phone but I'm sure he said MDS. I'll clear that one up easily enough tomorrow. I agree with everything said there just never heard of this as I've been out of arb for a little while and in a different line of work.
  13. I've had much to do with loler for quite a while now and I've just had a call from one of our arborists regarding a concern from a loler inspector about the rope markings. The issue is that the loler inspector has said that legislation came in, in 2015 that ropes should be marked as static or dynamic. I'll get more information but he is asking for markings stating MDS or UIAA - Falls. Also a mention of sdc's dynamic? Can anyone help clear this up? He is basically unwilling to categorize brand new ropes, from an arboricultural supplier, as climbing rope - therefore it would be 'not fit for purpose'. Thanks in advance
  14. Actually just tried something and it slid down like a sleeve. Looks better. Will put some new fire cement around for good measure
  15. Do you think this flue is set up correctly? It was fitted by a professional about 6 years ago. It looks to me like the ribbed bit should be pushed down into the top of the stove a bit more to get a better seal. My Dad has the smaller version and his looks to be pushed down into the top of the stove I don't want to tamper with it and mess it up!
  16. It's about 400g difference. I tried both for weight in the shop and didn't really notice much difference. Hanging on the harness it feels lighter than the ms200. I would consider having a large and small battery
  17. I got the ap300 battery and fast charger which charges it in 30 mins. Much prefer this setup to the husky. I do like the rigid loop on the husky for hanging on carritool but you can easily make something up for the stihl.
  18. Just checked this out on the stihl site. Stihl recommend the AP200 for the MSA160T. The AP200 is 1.3kg. The AP300 is 1.7kg so not a big difference. The saw alone is 2.3kg, so that's a choice of either 3.6 kg or 4 kg in your hand. In my opinion if you get twice the cutting time that's worth the 400g difference. That's if the difference in cutting time is that much different
  19. Just read this thread start to finish. I have used the husky battery top handle saw and really like it. Lads would much rather pick that up than a petrol saw. I concur with the comments that it's still quite noisy and I always use ear protection when using it. I am interested in purchasing the stihl having used it. Much quieter, impressive cutting and a lot lighter. I noticed someone else asked the question about the battery and charger combination and I'd like to get this right as I'll only be buying the one battery and charger (for now). Charging times are less important for me but I'll probably go for the faster charger. As for battery, my local retailer said that the smaller AP200 is designed to be used with the MSA160T and with the AP300 weight would be an issue. Has anybody compared the weight of this saw with the two different battery sizes? Does it take much longer to charge the AP300? Thanks
  20. Hi. Not quite at related but I'm measuring paths to get distances put on finger posts. I've been using GGP software and some will be measured by wheel but there are some long paths that don't show on mapping software or maps. Anybody got any neat ideas for measuring these distances without walking with the wheel? I'm going to try strava on my bike but I'd rather use something accurate to the metre and that is in 0.1km intervals.
  21. We currently use the AA format
  22. It's got me thinking about something else. If you have two large trees growing side by side with some natural bracing between them, what does this mean for root formation and therefore stability if one tree was removed?

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