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arboriculturist

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Everything posted by arboriculturist

  1. Isokern or twinwall - you still need a route from woodburner to roof level. Twinwall has limited lifespan unless you use sub 20%MC timber on the woodburner. You would have the work of boxing the twinwall with fireproof material, whereas the Isokern just plaster with Thistle Universal One Coat. If you are a practical bloke you can prep. the route yourself with a little guidance from a builder mate and put in the foundation. The last one I saw installed was done in 2 long days with 2 blokes who knew exactly what they were doing. Cost it out and see how it looks then. Hope it goes well.
  2. You get a surprising amount of heat loss through the walls of twin wall flue. Hardly surprising as there is only 25mm of fibre insulation. I would compare the quotes of using Isokern versus Twin wall. The 2nd will be lower cost if sited outside the building, however your home will look like a 'Fish and Chip Shop'.
  3. You can teach yourself if you did the Fd.Sc.Arb. - nothing like the work you put in on a weekly basis. AutoCAD LT is great and you only use about 1/5000th of its capabilities. Everything you need is within the AC program supplied. You need to be using Chris Skellerns Arborcad also or you are wasting your time. Good luck
  4. Google Isokern Chimney - Basically this is a pre-cast insulated cimney that comes as individual blocks, which stack one on top of each other with a fireproof sealant in the joints. Just need a level foundation and run from ground floor up through house to exit at roof level. Installation depends on internal layout of the dwelling of course. This is a quality established product, which has been around for many years and will add value to your property. Always remember - you get what you pay for with 'most' things. Have a chat with any established builders you know who are over 45 and they will confirm what I say. Good luck.
  5. Source a registered installer and get an Isokern Flue fitted - a little like LEGO - top quality and totally fireproof. Get 3 comparable prices. Good luck.
  6. Thanks Matt Rarely can you have too many strings to your bow - providing they give you a reasonable margin. You may have started perhaps with just the pellets on a smaller scale and grew that side of the business. Any advice on a good starting point would be invaluable to us if you are prepared give any. Thanks
  7. I think the lowest we can get small size down to in winter is 22.5% in perfect drying conditions with night-time RH at 90% and daytime lower of course. I was initially surprised by this.
  8. As one of the most experienced people on the Forum in relation to humidity variables, would you suggest even green timber will fail to dry at all at night even with optimum airflow passing the timber?
  9. We are hundreds of miles from you and haulage makes pellets delivered on 1T pallets expensive. Does the margin you make on pellets give you a worthwhile return? I heard one retailer was only making £ 20/tonne on Verdo, which by time you have delivered it, hardly worth the trouble. Thanks
  10. Brilliant - thanks Chris
  11. Some of the green bags seem to vary in size and quality. Could you advise on a good size bag for 18/ 9" logs and where to source them? Much appreciated.
  12. Spot on - and if you live in the South West and decide only to do Arb. you will not survive.
  13. That seems a sensible price for quality timber. We have to move towards 50/50 for the reasons we all know about and have been discussed at length on the Forum. Thanks
  14. If you dont mind me asking ; Soft/hardwood, what length are the logs and what price? I am keen we all sell a quality similar product at a similar price to avoid the undercutting war some seem keen to persue.
  15. You will be the envy of many! - hope you got the pre Oct 2014 tariff on the 2nd system. Are you on Chip and container drying?
  16. Would you class the ' RIGHT MACHINE' as being the LENZ system linked up to a 40yard hook skip?
  17. With the next commercial RHI 'degression' cut in tariffs due in January and thereafter further cuts to follow, using Biomass to dry firewood and chip is going to look far less attractive. A 199kW project, at the 7.6p per kWh rate will generate approximately £19,783 per annum in commercial RHI payments. Following the next proposed degression of 20% in January at the lower rate of 6.1p/kWh, the payments would be approximately £15,951, being £4,000 a year less. For those who are already accredited the cut in tariff payment will not affect you - for those yet to sign up, this changes the whole equation when it comes to installing a new biomass drying system!
  18. Do you dry your chip to get the MC down using RHI, air dry Roundwood then chip or split bulk bought in chip?
  19. Don't worry about all the negative feedback Doug - just get on with the job, use volunteers and even if you give them a few pounds for travel/food if someone moans to whoever it will never be enforced. I can understand why nearly as many people wish to leave the UK as are keen to live here - many appear to have become paranoid about every last detail in whatever legislation turns up. Just get on with things and behave reasonably is my remit.
  20. My information on Volunteers comes straight from ACAS and yes you can give them travel and lunch money. The government may on occasion be quoted as being stupid, but those who draft the legislation can also be reasonable. Don't get hung up on this and get back to the Woodland management works !
  21. National Minimum Wage does not apply to a volunteer doing voluntary work. Volunteers are not entitled to the national minimum wage as they don't get paid other than travel or lunch expenses and therefore will not be classed as a worker. Volunteers do not have a contract of employment but often have a volunteering agreement.
  22. 20 mins out there was enough to get soaked early this am! What tonnage do you think you got in that green trailer behind the New Holland tractor that collected from you late Tuesday afternoon? Thanks Jon
  23. Sweet Chestnut - from a photo, would need to see real time for positive ID.
  24. Have you compared this bar with your 42" bar? Especially the splaying aspect - measure width on both bars at top of groove with micrometer over the full length every 100mm - mark with tape measure and chalk. Double check groove depth in relation to chain being used. Again compare bars. Are your depth guages all the same height and if so are they filed to the correct height in relation to the cutters? Are the right and left hand cutters 80% perfect i.e. outside cutting corners undamaged i.e. no rounding off you have not noticed? Even subtle damage to left or right cutters can cause chain to cut in a curve Does it have same symptoms with new chain? - if so we can all deduce its a bar defect.

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