Marc
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Everything posted by Marc
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When you take the half hitch with one leg which in turn clamps the other leg you can set this either closer to the coils which will make the hitch grab very reliably but can bind the coils. The bigger the space between the half hitch and coils the easier the coils will break, this I think is becasue as you advance the hitch the half hitch part moves towards the coils and loosens them off, the shorter the distance it travels the less it will loosen the coils. It also is the same when you descend the bigger the gap as the coils move down there is greater play and they loosen easier. Other factors though like type of cord, the length eye to eye and wether your using a pulley type cambium saver also play a part.
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You don't want to be putting your cuts in the wrong way round when they are leaving the stem that quick woops!
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You've not set or dressed it right, what cord and rope you using? could you post a pic of your hitch?
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Why not just use a knot? I know its a little harder, but not much. Petzl or Kong they look about the same to me, both serve the same purpose.
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AA Trade Show 2009, Pictures, thoughts and opinions...
Marc replied to John Hancock's topic in Picture Forum
He was looking at a retail of 45 canadian dollars -
AA Trade Show 2009, Pictures, thoughts and opinions...
Marc replied to John Hancock's topic in Picture Forum
It was an aluminium throwball with a slight twist. Once your line was set, the ali throwball would split in half and you could tie the rope on the other half of the throwball which acted like a tapered point to help get your line over/through tricky bits, it can be frustrating getting the ideal point with the throwbag only for the rope to get stuck on a plate of bark or seemingly tiny insignificant twig. Its rare that happens though. -
Your right steve spiking in general is quicker, like i said it depends on the tree, if i get my line set first time then i already have my high anchor and can begin work on the lowest branch and work my way up.
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Both, it also depends on how good your throwlining is.
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I don't think there is a great chance of them coming undone in one climb, I reckon on my friends harness they had been coming loose for sometime. From memory when this happend on the dragonfly/butterfly harness a reccomendation went out that locktight should be used. I do see your point about a fail safe, i'd be intrested in what is in the user manual about them.
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Yeah sometimes i'll just spike up, depends on the take down, i'll often install my line from the ground first then start spike up so i can bash a few bits of on the way up more easily. Or i'll install the srt line get up there quick clearing some branches on the way and put spikes on, or get up there quick set up a rigging system bash a load of bits off get down to the big stuff then put my spikes on. It all depends on the tree.
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The design is there to make the bridge a high wear component replacable, to make every part of our system failsafe is hard thing to manage, we should check all vital parts of our systems daily, are the karabiners functioning properly, are our knots still tied and set right, is our rope undamaged, are all parts of the harness in still good order no frayed stiching connecting hardwear in working order and set right etc etc. its not hard to do and quick and easy, i guess thats what the red nylon is for to give you an early indication. Shackles like that are not new with harness design.
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I actually thought it was a relativly inexpensive set-up, basically compromising a handled ascender, chest ascender, and foot clamp with couple of karabiners. I use srt on every climb, ladders are of no use to us, everyone i work with can climb and use the systems we use. We stick to RADs though for much the reasons you pointed out, with an ascent and descent srt system you can safely work on the way up it also works with any harness. The srt line is always left in so anyone can get access to the tree. The tree walker looks very quick and effcient compared to a rads, the climb where you want to shoot to the top quick is rare so like you i doubt i'd use it much.
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Its incorrect application of kit, it may work but that doesn't make it o.k or safe to do so. It primarily a descent and ascent tool for doubled rope, in that use its only taking 50% of the climbers weight. Its cam design is completly different from other purpose designed ascent and descent equipment such as a Elderid Eddy or Petzl I'd.
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You've got to check your shackles on any harness that uses them, i think i'm right in saying some had an accident when a shackle came undone with a dragonfly a few years back. A mate of mine climbs with a treeflex, working with him recently I was having a nose at his harness and noticed to bits of red on his shackles, looked at them closer only to find both had come undone, one was just on by its last thread!!! I don't blame the harness design, you got to check these things!
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More kit is a good thing, you'll soon end up with a harness like Matt of the workshop outside treeworker and wonder how you ever did the job without it all. More kit allows you more flexability to approach a job and makes your life easier.
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Some of us are much harder on kit than others, a pair of boots may last 1 year for some and only 6 months for others. Also i've had 2 pairs of Meindl Wauldlaufer first pair gave me over 1 years service, second fell aprt in under 9 months, the glue on the sole failed and leather didn't last as long. So there can be inconsistencys with even the same boot.
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A lockjack deffinetly cannot be used on a single line!!
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It will not work in much the same way unfortunatly, as your still using doubled rope, you could just get the foot ascender and use your hands to grab the line going through the lockjack, its just not as effcient as climbing a single line. With single line every upward movement is used to full effect so is quicker and more effcient.
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I'm not Bob but i thought the rope walker system was a simple set-up, liked the way you could use it with the treemotion and not just a dedicated srt harness. I still think the rads system is the best system to use day in day out. I bought a croll so will try out the system soon, i can only see it being of use to me on very long clear single line ascents.
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Thank you for the reply Andrew, luckily for us we have a good relationship with our local hire firm so they have been able meet our requirements. Can you give some more details on the mobile filter as this may be usefull to us in the future.
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Nice work Gibbon!
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I had to buy a saw which was gutting I couldn't help thinking of all the lovely kit I could of bought with that money, never mind tho Jonsie gave me a good deal on that and some Silky blades. Thinking of of buying my silky blades in bulk, i spend a fortune on them through the year over 300 pounds! Also got a croll some slings and a mallion to make myself a new srt set-up
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Also increased transpiration due to more air flow through the crown, which could stress the tree, if its healthy should be fine though.
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Get suited and booted get up there and burn the blighters out of the tree, nasty job but i'd do it.
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AA Trade Show 2009, Pictures, thoughts and opinions...
Marc replied to John Hancock's topic in Picture Forum
£28.500
