Marc
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Everything posted by Marc
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Weight is a killer off road, a Unimog will go further than a 7.5t/3.5t but not quite the go anywhere vehicle, to heavy especially with a crane. I reckon hucksters mog is best with the trailer mounted crane, most of the unimogs i've worked with have more road biased tyres as well.
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You want something like this or
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You will get stuck if you take a rig like that proper off road! The number of time we've got stuck upto the axles:sad: The ground needs to be bone dry and hard with a crane mounted mog
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To be fair i think it really depends on your buisness, most outfits i've worked for do not need a mog, something like a 6.5t Izuzu or proper 7,5t truck is far more usefull, reliable, economic and comfortable to run.
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I wonder who your talking about:sneaky2: Recently had the tank on one of unimogs i drive cleaned out was about 1lb of sand in it we assume! from the sandblasting of the chassis:thumbdown:
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I must have a go on a spiderjack, I may get converted!! Rescuing someone on a lackjack shouldn't be difficult, getting someone of a toothed ascendor i reckon is more of a challenge to someone who is not familiar with them. I'm going to have to think of some rescue stratergies to put on my site,,,,,,,,, someday.
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Ha ha thought i was the only one who did this, maybe optomistic thinking? I've only priced a few jobs myself, I found i often underestimated the size (just glad i never under estimated the price). Same with limbs, the angles they grow out at and size of them can catch me out, I used to spend time looking at the tree from the ground planning my work, now i'll just have a loose idea the real plan starts when i'm up the tree. As for pricing no idea, make a decent living and enjoy it, otherwise do something else.
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I'd have to go with the huckster, don't see the point in having your kit clean and spring fresh it'll never last in this job. I gave my old harness to my wife so we could climb on the weekends, she couldn't stand the stink so washed it in the bath with some soap flakes (used for washing technical clothing like gor-tex so is gentle on modern fibres and cheaper than specialist products) it came up like new.
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When I tie a vt i'll do 5 wraps and 1 braid once you sit on it it'll go to a 4 wrap 2 braid, sometime more braids and a longer cord works best, yes you'll have more sit back but the extra braids will help to buffer the load to the wraps/coils giving better descent control. This is the thing with a vt so many options and variations which make it so tuneable. Something else to look out for is your fishermans, they will settle which can throw out your hitch making it begin to not grab reliably. Perserver and the vt is hard to beat. Personally, i'd try a knut hitch, its not as fussy and is close to a vt.
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I agree:001_tongue:
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I was using Ocean 10mm on my tachyon using a knute hitch, could never get a VT to work well with 10mm. I liked it, didn't get so hot, always advanced easily and lasted a long time. Now using 8mm OP
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I like the sound of that, i have a splice on the other end of my line going to have to put a shackle in it and try that out.
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Great work as usual Reg, looking forward to the video when you've put it together.
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I did a little experiment once, cut a piece of a freshly felled Sycamore which was young and healthy placed it in a black bag and left it for a while, fungi grew which just shows that fungi is ever present just waiting for the right conditions.
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Not a problem in my opinion, one of the companies i work for sell compasted wood chip as mulch and use it extensivley for mulch circles round veteran trees and on newly planted trees in over 15 years has not been a problem, mushrooms will occur and its only natures way. The only problem i've heard of is using composted woodchip from deseased trees (viral, bacterial or fungal) and placing it in direct contact with the trees feeder roots, as a mulch circle though placed on top of the soil should make transfer of any pathogen very unlikly. Don't qoute me on it though only what i've heard and read briefly in the past.
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Just curious Steve why the switch from the treemotion to seqouia, did you just fancy a change? Thinking of trying one myself
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I think your rope guide is great Drew, and for whatever reason the cost of original ART products is shocking in NZ. I actually prefer my own home made ropeguide over an original rope guide, lighter and retrieves more reliably. Although your right the cocoon is so shiny and sexy, i'm just jealous. You say you've used a sling because the stiched part gives extra stiffness which helps to guide the cocoon through the eye, would some firm tubing between the cocoon and hitch work any better? You could probably find something almost the same diameter of the pulley,,,, just a thought. Also i used to have the retrieval shackle in a splice at the end of the adjustable split tail, then found having attached to the hitch gave better pull allowing you to get a better flick or waggle to ease the pulley out. Yours probably doesn't need that tho as it'll probably pull through pretty easily anyway.
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That does look good Drew, still i am curious is it a vast improvement over a simple set-up like this? I like it because its simple and tidy, all the parts are cheap as possible to replace (especially the pulley compared to a cocoon) And it retrieves very reliably if well placed.
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Most H & S is a doodle, it really isn't that difficult, just use your common sense. Unfortunatly i've worked with those who make H&S hard work this is counter productive and doesn't improve safety in the slightest. Where as simple health and safety that is easy to implement and relies on common sense improves saftey at work.
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Your using your leg muscles to ascend this is the only benefit to having a footloop, I tried without and found it hard going and more clumsy.. We all have different stratergies to work a tree, what works well for some may not work as well for others, its about finding whats right for you and what your work mainly involves.
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I hear what your saying Kevin, rads is far from ideal, but its simple and effective, 100ft ascents are very rare, 50-60ft is not all that often either in the u.k. So rads for most stuff is suffcient and simple, it allows you to do work whilst making progress to your t.i.p. for long ascents i'll use a rope walker system. I'd love to get to grips with the f8 revolver, only for the majority of my work I do not see how it would blow dDRT out of the water, but would like to be proved wrong, most of my work is on the outer extremities of the tree having double'd rope to give yourself advantage to move in is vital. I'd like to be proved wrong though
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He wasn't lowering the limb he'd just tied it off to the limb he was on!?!? And the rope snapped!! Hence the big boing'ing he got. His saw and helmet went flying in the impact, he didn't have a secondary attatchment (probably a good thing) and was lucky his rope got caught saving him from a big pendulum swing into the stem. Very luck indeed!
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I'd of felled it for sure in a high risk area, just saying still plenty of sound wood. What fungi was present? Most of the hinge strength is in the outer wood.
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Looks like there is plenty of sound wood left where it counts! I've deffinetly seen worse.
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Just found my all time favourite clip, this professional tree cuttur truly deserves a darwin award! LiveLeak.com - Guy Cuts a Limb and Gets Catapulted Off the Tree.
