Marc

I like the way they are described as light weight boots they looked like proper tough boots with just a little more give and grip with a little less weight than the tirol fighters. I'd buy a pair.

Zubat here, used to like the gomtaros to but the zubat is a better allrounder.

I did have the pdf somewhere, only problem is i don't think it'll work without the Stihl mediacat software. What do you want to know i have a manual and be happy to scan the relevant pages for you the whole thing would be a ball ache though!

Because some people are strange and attached to there ungainly snap hooks, and as long as they are still openly sold and used, then so be it. There is no point getting to pedantic over the fact its not technical a 3 way, the design of a snap hook does make it difficult to open accidentally, unlike a 2 way karabiner where the possibilty of the barrell turning is in my opinion higher hence the reccomendtaion of a 3 way minimum. Yes technically it shouldn't be used, in my opinion a good loler inspector should deem it fit for use but at least educate the climber that he should move with the times, its a brave new world out there! Its not an insurance nightmare!! Its just common sense!

I thought in the approved code of practice your lanyard is your secondary life line and should be able to safely bare your weight.

One outfit i used to work for had a Schliesing 220mx? tough as, it was abused and poorly maintained but withstood the worst that was thrown at it by rough sub contractors, where others like Jensen and Timberwolfs faltered under such abuse. Good chippers if well maintained i'd imagine they'd give an excellent service life.

I have a Silky for 90% of my pruning unless its really heavy pruning, the 200t is for take downs. Although using the 200t would probably be cheaper given how much i spend on silky blades, I just can't stand climbing round the tree with one unless i have to, i'm so much quicker without it.

The other thing with big pto chippers is most are not hand feedable crane feed only, as far as i'm aware the bc2000 is one of the largest hand feedable machines availible. Yes it is expensive but like Shrek pointed out it has its own 250hp Cat engine and crane included, which is handy as it has the ability to fill that mog in 7 minutes when presented with a constant stream of material, not many pto machines can match that output, so we can park it up and whilst one mog is being emptied fill up another mog or chip truck.

Have you tried a Petzl Seqouia?? Its a good harness at a fair price.

I've posted it before but i can't help posting it again:sleep1: hopefully the boss wil upgrade the engine on that mog one day to give it some proper power. We also run a BC1000xl and BC1400xl along with a couple of tinnywolfs one tracked for good measure. Love the all the Vermeers they are pretty solid and reliable, the BC1000 only has one feed roller which means it does suck limbs through so well compared to the twin roller'd machines. Vermeers support is also very good the rare times we've needed it.

I prefer a thong brian, I also likethe way my treemotion elastic straps ping my bare arse. In all seriousness plain text conveys no emotion, i didn't read Bob's reply as being offensive given the nature of this thread and how long its gone on, besides tree surgeons tend to prefer sarcastic/black humour.

One of my main life lines is 10mm static line, i use 10mm Ocean Poly as my lanyard. But any access line or rock climbing line will be up to it.

Its not so much they are not fit for purpose as they clearly are, and if any loler inspector would fail one that is in good working order, well i wont say it. Technically we should not be using them, they come on fliplines mainly because these are made for other markets with different regulations like the States.

I can't imagine the saw attachment point on a treemotion ripping off to easily ather my saw is attached to a firm fixing on my harness personally, i'm not concerned about getting the saw stuck in the cut. Besides i'd rather the weak point is my saw lanyard which is my weak point should the unlikly ever happen. Like evrything never take your back-ups as being 100% proof if for any reason you expect the saw may get stuck in the cut do not! really on your harness tear away or tear away lanyards! As for hanging a big saw from the rear ring, I do clip the saw there but rarely does it hang from it as the last thing i want to do is reach round and pull the saw up everytime I make a cut (its all the little details that makes our life easier!) I keep mine cliped close to my side off either D or a plastic tool hook depending on the situation so my saw is close at hand and reduce the distance i have to lift it. The central D's mean the weight of the saw is partially taken by my bridge and climbing system.

I wouldn't use a snap hook personally, also be wary of having the tails on your fisnermans so short it will creep! Somthing like this is my prefered set-up only with more compact knut/distel type knot, there is 8m of lanyard stuffed in that hip bag, the little prussik is for attaching one end round limbs to save from side loading the karabiner and to get the full benefit of 8m in a single leg.

The blocks are tidier and more compact, you can leave the system set-up in a bag for many different applications and quick use. They also have a rope brake to aid you when pulling over heavy leaning stems. Yes you can use rigging pulleys, but for the small intial outlay the fiddle blocks are worth it.

What block are you using and did you have to climb to make the cuts? Those barton blocks are plenty strong you'd be hard pushed to break one even with 4 guys on the rope.

Unclip the saw from you is a good call, how you make the cuts tho is also very important, i've had my saw trapped in the kerf once nothing big it was my cuts that was the problem.

Fiddle blocks are a great tool, Barton do some nice ones at a good price from your local chandelry. How do you install the pull line?

I'd only support the saw from a tool line to make my life easier, never done it myself though or seen it done. As for being safer just do your cuts right and there will not be a problem.

A poll on wether we should ban using polls on arbtalk, i know i'd vote for a change..

Err no just that a good climber doesn't make a good treeworker, you can be a good climber and god awful tree worker. But then this is all obvious stuff.

Far from it in my opinion. I'm a rubbish climber in comparison to some, yeah i can get out there just about as far as anyone else, i'm just not quick or that gracefull, but i get the job done in good time to a good standard and everybody is happy including my groundcrew. I think Martyn1's post sums it up well.

I was going to post a longer reply but felt it was pointless.

another utterly pointless thread!